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Author Topic: Painting over Powdercoating?  (Read 16711 times)
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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #10 on: May 14, 2012, 09:17:32 pm »

I would think powder coating the body would have it's setbacks,,
like jim said, body work requires fillers, even if a little bit, and it will melt, I've heard of some high heat fillers, but not sure.

also any parts like hinges would have to be drilled out as the thickness will give you trouble.. plus if it does ever chip, even though it's tough, it's like trying to fix porcelain... it just won't look right...

powder works great for other metal parts, once the galvanizing is removed like shelves, bottle gate shoes, back spine, tub and some other small parts... other than that paint is the way to go ..

yes powder coating is cheaper... but some more limitations,,

and as far as finding he right color red,, it's a matter of trial and error... you can't go on a picture on the internet.. as you have different setings on monitors, lighting variations, etc...

Good luck...
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BrianB
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« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2012, 06:03:35 am »

High heat filler specifically made for powder application are widely available.

Any part that you don't want powder on either gets plugged with silicone plugs/cones or masked off with high heat paint. Any other hole or threaded portion gets reamed/drilled out or chased with a tap.
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« Reply #12 on: May 15, 2012, 09:17:20 pm »

I had my We-6 powdercoated because I am just using it for my garage. I was not looking for a "grade A" resto job on the
We-6. I knocked out all of the dents to my satisfaction, then used high temp JB Weld on the small dings. That holds up
to the heat of powdercoating. There is also a product called Lab Metal for this. But Jay my powdercoater said whatever you
use , you can't put it on to fill big dings, or it'll pop/blister. I am happy the way the machine came out,not perfect as far as the
bodywork, but its what I was looking for, at a reasonable price. I have problems posting pics on here, but here is the link to
my powdercoaters site, he has my machines on his home page. Jay does great work. He did the inside shell of my C-51 also. I kept
the We-6 a wet machine and it works perfect. Loaded with ice cold beverages for the neighborhood.
http://protekpowdercoating.com
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Kaleid20
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« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2012, 09:25:49 pm »

I had my We-6 powdercoated because I am just using it for my garage. I was not looking for a "grade A" resto job on the
We-6. I knocked out all of the dents to my satisfaction, then used high temp JB Weld on the small dings. That holds up
to the heat of powdercoating. There is also a product called Lab Metal for this. But Jay my powdercoater said whatever you
use , you can't put it on to fill big dings, or it'll pop/blister. I am happy the way the machine came out,not perfect as far as the
bodywork, but its what I was looking for, at a reasonable price. I have problems posting pics on here, but here is the link to
my powdercoaters site, he has my machines on his home page. Jay does great work. He did the inside shell of my C-51 also. I kept
the We-6 a wet machine and it works perfect. Loaded with ice cold beverages for the neighborhood.
http://protekpowdercoating.com

How did you do the lettering?

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magcag01
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« Reply #14 on: May 15, 2012, 09:32:07 pm »

Decals from Fun-tronics.
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« Reply #15 on: May 15, 2012, 09:57:53 pm »

I think your powdercoating ppl were refering to powdercoating car frames its a common thing in show cars and hot rods
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Kaleid20
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« Reply #16 on: May 15, 2012, 10:00:37 pm »

I think more hot rod car chassis. They had a few there.
« Last Edit: May 15, 2012, 10:03:11 pm by Kaleid20 » Logged

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jrwienri
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« Reply #17 on: June 01, 2012, 09:44:56 pm »

Epoxy primer over powder coat works just fine. Scuff it up and paint it. I like Squeegs Zinc Chromate Epoxy primer. Available on line from Squeeg's in Az. Pricey but the best. All the shops apply fillers over epoxy primers so no need to finish bodywork, just do high level metal bumping before powder coat and finish body work after priming, reprime, block, sand and paint color.
Jeff
« Last Edit: June 01, 2012, 09:50:15 pm by jrwienri » Logged

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« Reply #18 on: July 03, 2013, 01:28:30 pm »

Interesting, Powder coating seems to be all the rage. In static applications should be fine.
Any thing that is subject to movement or stress PC will flake and fall off. ie: suspension components.

Would love to see a powder-coated car after 1 year on the road.

Whats the drive? Would it be less than a good paint job?

Thanks!
Creighton

Sorry I need to contradict you, early powder coating was indeed very brittle when flexed, but the stuff they are working with now is extremely flexible.  It's even used on suspension springs these days.

Also for those worrying about high heat, there are lots of fillers that will withstand the heat like JB Weld or Thermobond 3 (which is made for powder-coating).
but it's best to talk to your local powder-coating shop though, to see what they recommend.

I would recommend Thermobond though as it can withstand an Outgassing bake better.
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coke_and_stuff
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« Reply #19 on: July 05, 2013, 12:13:23 pm »

I was talking to a friend over he weekend, He restores a lot of high end pumps. On the Cast Iron Pieces he has them powder coated before he blocks them out for paint. I seen his work and it was amazing. He said he has been doing this for quite sometime with no problems.

Joey
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