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Author Topic: Shoulder Rivets  (Read 11474 times)
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johnieG
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« Reply #10 on: February 04, 2012, 07:15:34 pm »

not normally, no, although I've seen it done, but you run the risk of Plating the pivot point together, although in theory, if it's a small joint, it should break free, or in the worse case the plating will bridge the two assemblies & fuse them. I've seen it done as I mentioned, but this was on a part that had two dissimilar metals , steel for the fixed arm & steel for the movable link, but the rivet was stainless steel & wasn't affected ( plated) by the clear zinc, best to talk to your plater.
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Jim
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« Reply #11 on: February 04, 2012, 07:33:05 pm »

Is it possible to plate moving parts without disassembling them?
Absolutely! Although I have only restored 2 Stoners, certain parts I did not disassemble just for this reason. As far as the locking bar is concerned, mine came out just fine after re-zincing!
I would not drill out the rivets holding the coin mech plates together! I do removed everything else on the coin mech though...

Photos below show some disassembled parts; there are some V-81 parts as well...
And the slug rejector in the coin mech photo is not re-zinc plated...
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Tom


« Reply #12 on: February 04, 2012, 07:43:40 pm »

Thanks Tim, I sent Hanson a completed online inquiry form for some "custom" rivets. I am sure they'll probably want me to buy about 5,000 of them but maybe I'm wrong. None of the stock sizes were even close to the few rivets that I need.

I buy from Hanson and also have inquired about specialty rivets - 10,000 is the minimum I think?
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ken5083
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« Reply #13 on: February 04, 2012, 08:42:46 pm »

Absolutely! Although I have only restored 2 Stoners, certain parts I did not disassemble just for this reason. As far as the locking bar is concerned, mine came out just fine after re-zincing!
I would not drill out the rivets holding the coin mech plates together! I do removed everything else on the coin mech though...

Photos below show some disassembled parts; there are some V-81 parts as well...
And the slug rejector in the coin mech photo is not re-zinc plated...

Jim- Thanks alot. My plater gets back in town on Tuesday so I am hoping to get some stuff over to him later in the week. I am glad to hear that I don't have to stress about taking ever single moving part apart.

Do you ever have a problem with parts sticking together at the pivot point like some others have described?

I am basically working on the coin chute/coin return assembly right now. I haven't decided if I want to pull apart the coin mechanism yet but will just leave the slug rejector alone if I do.
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collecture
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Tom


« Reply #14 on: February 04, 2012, 10:10:20 pm »

The slug rejectors clean-up and replate nicely....why don't you guys touch them? I figure if you can handle the mech, then you can handle the rejector!
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Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72
S-48 DP
Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55
1930s DP Counter Cooler
Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand)
Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60
Victor C-14
ken5083
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« Reply #15 on: February 04, 2012, 10:26:06 pm »

The slug rejectors clean-up and replate nicely....why don't you guys touch them? I figure if you can handle the mech, then you can handle the rejector!

Now that I've seen yours I'm jealous and may undertake the task. I'm clear cadmium plating alot of the parts and will probably yellow cadmium plate the rejector. Any tips/tricks other than taking a bunch of photos as I disassemble? Where did you get the replacement decals?

http://www.reliableplating.com/cadmium.html

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ken5083
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« Reply #16 on: February 05, 2012, 12:06:27 am »

I found the Slug Rejector decals... Smiley I just ordered them.
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