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Author Topic: Refinishing Shelves: Vert 6 case  (Read 13515 times)
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fabes
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« Reply #10 on: October 05, 2011, 03:55:58 pm »

Thanks John,
If i keep running into dead ends, I'll take you up on that offer.

Thanks!!!!!!
« Last Edit: October 05, 2011, 05:08:18 pm by fabes » Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
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Jim
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« Reply #11 on: October 05, 2011, 04:22:50 pm »

soak em in Muratic acid and water.. 1-4 ratio is enough, leave em in for at least 30-45 minutes maybe longer,, (won't hurt them to be in longer)  they will be super clean.. rinse them off as soon as you pull them out, dry them off to avoid a bunch of flash rusting, a little wont hurt and then get them powder coated.
John,
Does this dissolve the surface rust...?
I'm looking for a better solution to remove rust prior to zinc plating because when you finely sand blast, it etches/textures the metal which leads to poor looking zinc plating. Perhaps another medium may be best to remove the rust but not texture the metal too much... I realize the rusted areas will remain rough, but I was trying minimize overall surface texture!
Does the acid solution dissolve plastic parts...? I have some parts that have plastic washers riveted in place and removing is out of the question...
Thanks for any direction!
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« Reply #12 on: October 05, 2011, 06:54:11 pm »

Jim,
I use Muriatic Acid (swimming pool acid) to strip all my parts prior to zinc plating. I use it undiluted. Rinse the parts in soapy water afterwards to neutralize the acid and dry immediately.
It will eat plastic, aluminum and potmetal right up, so watch out what you put in! If it is magnetic, then you are OK. Rust is no match for it either - heavily pitted pieces might need a longer soaking.
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« Reply #13 on: October 05, 2011, 07:23:47 pm »

Thanks Tom!
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« Reply #14 on: October 05, 2011, 07:33:17 pm »

Jim, the aluminum brighter I used doesn't effect plastic or at least it has never harmed any of mine. It comes in a plastic jug and my dipping trays are plastic. It will desolve rust, zinc and galvanize. I watch aluminum and potmetal close but haven't had any problem with it either. It may took a little longer than muratic but is more user friendly.
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« Reply #15 on: October 06, 2011, 04:20:10 am »

Thanks for the suggestion Johnny!

My powder-coater uses an aluminum cleaning solution that may be similar; I'll sample a piece in the solution and see how it does with the rust...
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« Reply #16 on: October 06, 2011, 06:46:43 am »

Nothing will be left of the rust . Remember to wash with soap and water and dry ASAP!
« Last Edit: October 06, 2011, 12:17:06 pm by johnnyselman » Logged
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« Reply #17 on: October 06, 2011, 08:45:32 am »

Jim, looks like you got your answer before I checked back in.
but I use a dilutted amount.. like 4 to one or so... it works, just slower and I find the fumes are as bad.. I still do it outside..
in my experience, if it 's rusted.. it will remove the rust, but the pitting caused by the rust will still be there.

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« Reply #18 on: October 06, 2011, 09:12:25 am »

... it works, just slower and I find the fumes are as bad.. I still do it outside..
in my experience, if it 's rusted.. it will remove the rust, but the pitting caused by the rust will still be there.

Nothing like a whiff of acid in the nostrils!!  veryangry
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Cav 27, 33, CS-55E-2, 72
S-48 DP
Ideal CC 35, Barq's 55
1930s DP Counter Cooler
Vendo Coin Changers (ea. style - orig w/ stand)
Vendo Junior (rest.), 23 Deluxe, 39D, 44, 56RT, 80SS, 81A (orig), 81D, 6 C.V.
VMC 27, 27A, 81D DP, 110 DP
Westy WC-42-T, WC-44SK, WD-5(2), WB60
Victor C-14
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« Reply #19 on: October 06, 2011, 09:38:54 am »

Nothing like a whiff of acid in the nostrils!!  veryangry
Yeah, it's some nasty stuff.. I got a caught in a cloud of fumes last night and it hung with me for a while... nasty stuff...
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