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Author Topic: Spray insulation vs regular insulation  (Read 6340 times)
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fabes
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« on: September 29, 2011, 09:02:40 pm »

What are your thoughts on this? Has anyone tried the spray?
« Last Edit: September 29, 2011, 09:10:26 pm by fabes » Logged

Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
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rayg
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« Reply #1 on: September 29, 2011, 10:44:15 pm »

 Hi Pete,

For what I learned some spray foam insulation's can react to certain metals, like aluminium. Also, you have to watch out for the expanding volume of the foam. Although, there are some low expanding foam types out there now. 

I sure others will chime in to help!

Ray
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Ken R
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« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2011, 08:26:21 am »

Having used that expanding foam on other things, I am not so sure I'd try it on such a nice machine.  It makes a huge mess if you over shoot it, very difficult to clean up and if you ever had to pull it apart again, I think you'd destroy the machine in doing so.  Granted, I've never had the priviledge of being able to restore one of these machines yet, but that's just my thoughts on it.

Ken
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #3 on: October 01, 2011, 10:41:08 am »

       Good point Ken.
       The reproduction Westinghouse juniors with the refrigeration systems are using the expanding foam insulation. For some reason the copper lines have been clogging up with solder or something floating through them. The only way to clear this is to access the problem area inside the liner........which is now impossible without destroying the liner.
        I have had to salvage the compressors and punch a drain through 2 of these, converting them back to ice coolers. Foam is forever!
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Glen
fabes
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« Reply #4 on: October 01, 2011, 10:45:39 am »

Ok, so you all have convinced me. NO SPRAY INSULATION! I have been looking through the forum and it seems to me that the consensus is that the correct insulation is UNFACED R-19 ?

Is this the correct insulation? And how many rolls should I purchase? I have a Vertical 6 case.

Thanks guys!
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Thanks for all your help!
-Pete
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Ken R
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« Reply #5 on: October 01, 2011, 12:57:01 pm »

I am certainly not the expert here by any means, but I know when I got insulation to put the door back together on the 56 that we have, I got the lowest rating insulation I could get at Home Depot, which I think was R22, but either way, it was too think once decompressed.  I had to actually thin it out some so it didn't apply too much pressure against the door liner.  I got it to work though.  The insulation I got also had the single side paper, so guessing it was NOT the "unfaced" type mentioned on here.  I did all this prior to finding this website, otherwise, I would have probably been able to find the right stuff. oops
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BrianB
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« Reply #6 on: October 03, 2011, 06:21:40 am »

Unfaced R-19 is sufficient. Definitely don''t want to use paper faced. Pretty sure that there is always the chance for a bit of condensation between the liner and the main body. Condensation + paper faced insulation = sloppy mess!
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Brian
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« Reply #7 on: October 03, 2011, 07:52:39 am »

I have used faced insulation many times when it was all I could find. I just pealed the face off and it worked well. So you can buy faced and remove it.
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Slapshot42
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Jared


« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2011, 11:06:32 pm »

I just recently insulated a machine, and I used "unfaced" insulation due to the fact that I didn't want any paper inside the machine for the sole purpose of any moisture. I noticed that it was readily available to at Home Depot, but it was more expensive than the faced insulation. Also depending on the machine 24 inches wide , or if its a chest you may consider "attic" insulation at 36 inches wide. I think I paid about $25.00 for one roll.

I agree with Ken it was very thick and I had to thin it out a little bit. 
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