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scalebowler
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« Reply #30 on: May 26, 2013, 10:27:49 am » |
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Well I noticed a big mistake with my rust removal. Turns out I had the leads switched so it was cleaning the electrode hanging inside the cooler and dissolving the cooler. Caught it before it could do any damage but hopefully I will get some better results now.
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scalebowler
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« Reply #31 on: May 26, 2013, 05:19:46 pm » |
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Now that the leads are on the correct parts everything is going MUCH faster and looking much nicer! Even have a lot of paint on the outside of the cooler coming off. Will post some pics in about a half hour when I take it out and check on it. The metal did turn a black color but almost ALL of the heavy rust is gone. Just a little bit more in the corners left to go and then I'll flip it over and start the next side.
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johnieG
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« Reply #32 on: May 26, 2013, 05:52:32 pm » |
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Cool! can't wait to see how it turns out!
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Spoon-feeding Newbies since 2001...  Yeah..220,221 whatever it takes. Remember, all it needs is a shot of Freon! The Vendo V-83 is the '59 Edsel of the coke machine world. ;p Spray painting does NOT restore a compressor 11 is louder than 10... "Hope" is good, but it's not an action plan. |
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scalebowler
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« Reply #33 on: May 26, 2013, 05:55:22 pm » |
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Would something like this work for recrimping the liner into the cooler? http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-hand-seamer-66654.html I'm just using that link for a picture to show what I'm talking about. I actually have one that I got from my grandpa I am just wondering if it would flatten the seam enough or if I would need to go with something else. |
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kbareit
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« Reply #34 on: May 26, 2013, 06:08:00 pm » |
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A hand seamer can work but might not get it tight enough. I used mine to get it close and finished it with a pair of channel locks with 2 pieces of 1/4 inch square key stock to get it tight.
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Cavalier 27
Jacobs 26
Ideal 55 Hires root beer, 7-Up restored
Ideal 55 Pepsi, Barqs original
Double cola,Squirt,Nesbitts,Canada Dry on deck
3 Westy 60's
3 Westy 78's
Cav 72 original
S&S 1400 WD2 Pepsi
Stoner Junior
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johnieG
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« Reply #35 on: May 26, 2013, 06:12:13 pm » |
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You could try them, but I don't think they'd have enough leverage to crimp the seam very tight, I just use a pair of vise-grip pliers & carefully work back along the seam, they do sell a set of "flanging" pliers that have a bit of a die-form welded onto a pair of (again) vice-grip pliers, they are used to form a stepped-recessed seam on an edge of a panel of sheet metal so that two flat pieces can be welded together to form a flat level joint. they are sold at auto (bump-shop) supply houses, they are not that expensive. here's a link to a guy who sells them on ebay, but I know harbor freight sells them too, both a pneumatic & manual version. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Panel-Flanger-Widebody-Body-Shop-Sheet-Metal-Tool-NEW-/160994632152?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item257c0721d8&vxp=mtr |
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« Last Edit: May 26, 2013, 06:16:38 pm by johnieG »
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Spoon-feeding Newbies since 2001... Yeah..220,221 whatever it takes. Remember, all it needs is a shot of Freon! The Vendo V-83 is the '59 Edsel of the coke machine world. ;p Spray painting does NOT restore a compressor 11 is louder than 10... "Hope" is good, but it's not an action plan. |
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Eric
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« Reply #36 on: May 26, 2013, 06:14:58 pm » |
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would sticking it in a vise work and just work your way around?
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Eric
WANTED:
Embossed Quikold Standard
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scalebowler
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« Reply #37 on: May 26, 2013, 06:36:59 pm » |
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Here is what I have after doing the electrolysis on half the cooler. Keep in mind it looks worse than you might expect because I accidently had the leads switched for a while so it kind of etched some of the rust marks into the metal but since the outside still had paint on it it's fine. Only a tiny bit of rust in the corners still but I can sand that out with some sand paper. Got it flipped over and will check it again in another hour. I think the outside should go much faster since it just has some bad paint on it and that stuff comes off much faster than this awful rust. One other thing are these coolers supposed to leak at the corners on the bottom? There is a small gap around the corners on the bottom plate for the outer shell. Trying to decide if it is something that I should fill in with some strip caulk or if it's there to let any condensation that soaked into the insulation to evaporate out. The more rusted side |
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johnieG
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« Reply #38 on: May 26, 2013, 06:41:13 pm » |
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I'd coat the inside with POR or a paintable spray-on truck-bed undercoat to protect it before re-assembly.
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Spoon-feeding Newbies since 2001... Yeah..220,221 whatever it takes. Remember, all it needs is a shot of Freon! The Vendo V-83 is the '59 Edsel of the coke machine world. ;p Spray painting does NOT restore a compressor 11 is louder than 10... "Hope" is good, but it's not an action plan. |
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scalebowler
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« Reply #39 on: May 26, 2013, 06:41:15 pm » |
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You could try them, but I don't think they'd have enough leverage to crimp the seam very tight, I just use a pair of vise-grip pliers & carefully work back along the seam, they do sell a set of "flanging" pliers that have a bit of a die-form welded onto a pair of (again) vice-grip pliers, they are used to form a stepped-recessed seam on an edge of a panel of sheet metal so that two flat pieces can be welded together to form a flat level joint. they are sold at auto (bump-shop) supply houses, they are not that expensive. here's a link to a guy who sells them on ebay, but I know harbor freight sells them too, both a pneumatic & manual version. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Panel-Flanger-Widebody-Body-Shop-Sheet-Metal-Tool-NEW-/160994632152?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item257c0721d8&vxp=mtrThat's a great idea! I have vise grips so I'll give that a try. I also like those flanger vise grips. Looks like I might be able to make some at work out of some scrap material and some vise grips if I got someone in the welding department to weld them up for me |
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