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Author Topic: VF56 rust problem and a question  (Read 6157 times)
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IDTag
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« on: November 14, 2010, 09:09:50 pm »

Picked up a Vendorlator VF56. It's totally functional but there are several spots that have rusted through on the outer shell. I can patch the rusty areas but am wondering why it rusted in the first place. Is there a drain or something that might be plugged and allowed water to accumulate?

It looks like a lot of disassembly to get it fixed right. It appears the rusty areas are adjacent to the insulated areas so no direct access from inside.

The other immediate question, this one has an aluminum panel on the upper face but I've seen other machines with the molded, lighted product panel in the same place. Based on the fact I've already got a Pepsi machine, if this was sold as a Coke machine it might be worth the change when I repaint.
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scalebowler
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« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2010, 10:01:54 pm »

There is a drain on the inside at the bottom of the liner but you DO NOT want water to accumulate in there as it will rust it out. (my machine before I bought it had a clogged drain line and was tilted back so the water caused the liner to rust a little hole in the back and drain into the insulation)
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« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2010, 11:40:34 pm »

I'm guessing this one got water in the insulation based on where it rusted.
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Creighton
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« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2010, 01:53:57 am »

Welcome to the board!
It is called beltline rust. Very common on 56's. Water didn't make it down the drain tube and soaked the insulation between the liner and shell.

Not hard but time consuming to fix. The bottle stack/compressor and liner need to be removed. Wear gloves and a face mask and get rid of the old insulation. Then patch the metal on the shell and reassemble with new insulation.

Search on "rust" should turn up several old but good posts on the problem. If you can post a picture we can tell better what you are going to have to deal with.

Creighton

 
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scalebowler
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« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2010, 07:42:08 pm »

I used POR-15 to repair my machine and it worked out really well. Sealed up all the holes and looks good too. I just bought the super starter kit and it came with everything I needed. Even came with a brush.
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« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2010, 08:41:42 pm »

I've used POR15 for quite a while on cars. Here are a few shots of the little thing next to my 192. It's rough but it does work well. Haven't had much time to look at what's involved in disassembly to patch up the holes. Not anywhere near as bad as my old Datsun Roadster though.

From a quick look it does look like a lot of parts and pieces need to come out before I can get to where I need to be.



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collecture
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Tom


« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2010, 08:52:02 pm »

From a quick look it does look like a lot of parts and pieces need to come out before I can get to where I need to be.

Not really!

1. Disconnect the main door and pull it up & off the hinges
2. Take all the shelves out
3. Remove the stack (5-6 screws)
4. Remove the compressor assembly (5-6 screws)
5. Remove the breaker strips, liner and insulation
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« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2010, 09:07:27 pm »

Not really!

1. Disconnect the main door and pull it up & off the hinges
2. Take all the shelves out
3. Remove the stack (5-6 screws)
4. Remove the compressor assembly (5-6 screws)
5. Remove the breaker strips, liner and insulation

That's great! I've been a copier and printer tech for 15+ years so the electro-mechanical stuff is relatively easy. How to get things apart can be difficult unless you know the shortcuts. Thanks for the info!
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