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Author Topic: USS-8-64 Disassembly Advice, Pictures or Diagrams.  (Read 4746 times)
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lts70
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« on: February 25, 2010, 01:53:02 pm »

 :help:I would like to pull out the guts out of my machine and spray them with a Hamertone finish to freshen things up. All of the steel is in great shape but the galvanizing is worn through and dirty. Any advice, pictures, diagrams on the best way to pull the guts apart without hurting things would be appreciated.
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tkaz
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« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2010, 10:22:17 am »

I can help you out with a walkthough of the disassembly if you still need it, I've got a bunch of photos of a couple that I broke down.  How much have you done to this point? 

There isn't a ton to worry about, the rack comes out with two bolts on the top, the hardest part is getting the compressor out and putting it on a rack/bracket.

Let me know what you need for instruction/photos and I can post them up here.
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lts70
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« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2010, 01:18:00 pm »

The only thing I have done to this point is paint the front door and shim the door wedge to get the sage out of the door. If you have pictures that can be posted up I would love to see them. It would be nice to visualize what I am getting into.
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kc1313
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« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2010, 05:41:19 pm »

hello,

I was just going to ask the same question for a uss-96.

casey
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tkaz
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« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2010, 06:04:39 pm »

Sorry, forgot about this one.  Here are some photos of it taken apart, its a pretty easy process, just take some photos and go from there.  Let me know if you have any specific questions.
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tkaz
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« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2010, 06:05:32 pm »

More....
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lts70
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« Reply #6 on: April 13, 2010, 03:30:01 pm »

Thanks for the pictures!

I have been taking it shelf by shelf sanding them down and spraying with Hammertone. They are turning out great. Once I am done doing the shelves I plan on taking her out of commission long enough to take the box apart and spray all the other internal parts. But for now I am enjoying using the machine and spraying what I can when a row of soda pop runs out. These are very usable machines.
« Last Edit: April 13, 2010, 03:31:35 pm by lts70 » Logged
rayg
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« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2010, 09:10:08 pm »

Hi tkaz,

Great Pictures, Makes me want to paint mine... Got some questions:
1) How hard was it to remove the compressor ?   and what are the steps? ...it looks like you were able to leave the wire connector box in place.
2) How did you treat the rust before painting ?......do you use any kind of sealer  like por-15 that was mention in some other posting? 
3) Did you have any pin holes to repair? I got one about less the 1/8"

I know it's allot of questions,  but as newbie it's a major undertaking and I'm not sure if I want to tackle it by myself.

Thanks Ray
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1954 Stoner Senior
1964 United Orbit shuffle bowler   
1973 Cavalier USS-96
1976 Atari Night Driver
1979 Space Invaders Deluxe
1980 Centipede Cabaret (60in1)
1984 Williams Laser Cue Pinball
1993 IGT Wild Cherry Slot
1996 Police Trainer
2016 Visual Pinball Machine
Member : Michigan Mafia
tkaz
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« Reply #8 on: May 04, 2010, 09:25:56 pm »

Compressor was pretty easy to remove, take a lot of photos first!

There are a couple of points to focus on with the compressor, the electrical junction box at the side, the wires just press onto a spade connection, so you can pull them off with a little pressure.  I wish I knew that before, because I cut them, then figured out they pulled out.  The compressor top side is held in by two screws at the back wall, and two in the front bottom of the evaporator unit.  The bottom is only held in by the two bolts you can see in the front, the back side fits into a clip/bracket in the back.  It helps to have someone else with you to pull it out, but make sure you have something to place the assembly on when you pull it out.  I use a plastic side table from a junk yard set, it has just enough room underneath to fit the bottom section, and it properly supports the evaporator unit as well.  I think most folks here build their own wooden mount.  I'm slightly crafty (also known as lazy)

As for the rust, I just put some rust neutralizer on it, I can't remember who makes it, but it was a standard issue neutralizer sold at Advance Auto.  It sprays off with water when it is done.  I haven't tried POR15, but that's supposed to work the best.

I actually had quite a large hole at the bottom left corner of the last photo up there.  I used JB Weld to fill the hole, and just painted with Hammertone directly over that.  It worked great.

Let me know whatever other questions you have, happy to answer.
« Last Edit: May 04, 2010, 09:31:45 pm by tkaz » Logged

rayg
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« Reply #9 on: May 04, 2010, 10:02:57 pm »

Thanks tkaz,  You been very helpful....I think I can handle that with help,  Let me share a little something with you. You may not need it  but I like to try to give back if I can...
To create  selector labels  I made  a table in MS Word and then download all the  brand icons I wanted and then printed them up on heavy photo paper, lamented them and backed them with self stick magnetic tape. On the select knobs I hot glue some little metal plates..... not an original idea, but I tweaked it to work for me ...attached  a picture. The word doc is too larger to upload so  if anyone in interested  please email me   Thanks,
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1954 Stoner Senior
1964 United Orbit shuffle bowler   
1973 Cavalier USS-96
1976 Atari Night Driver
1979 Space Invaders Deluxe
1980 Centipede Cabaret (60in1)
1984 Williams Laser Cue Pinball
1993 IGT Wild Cherry Slot
1996 Police Trainer
2016 Visual Pinball Machine
Member : Michigan Mafia
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