Powder Coating question for those who powdercoat your machine parts

[SIGNGUY]

on the last 5-7 machines I've done, I've had the inside tubs, stack parts, shelves and misc parts powder coated.. and each time my powder coat guy complains about something called "outgassing"... says it makes the process take longer, basically when the parts are heated after powder is applied, the old galvanizing releases gasses that cause the powder coat in some spots to "pucker" out.. hence having to strip and redo.. (timely and costly procedure).

we obviously try to blast off the old galvanizing and even pressure steam clean the parts for grease/oils etc... but sometimes it still happens... have any of you guys who restore and powder coat have this problem and if so , how do you address it?

Just curious.. as it only happens once in a while but now my guy is hesitant as it takes him a long time to do one tub when this happens and he either has to charge me more or continue to take a loss..which don't think he wants to do?

just curious.

Thanks
John

[Crazzy Canuck]

After you do your blasting, wipe it down with vinegar. The vinager will neutralize the galvanize:biggrin:e. Hey I made a ryme. LOL
 Never had it happen to me either

[cokecolaman]

I had that happen on a few shelves, but that was it. The tub was perfect.
I had more problems putting the bottle rack back together...Everything was a tighter fit...Do you drill the holes out a little before sending the stuff to the powdercoater?

[coke_and_stuff]

Ive had tons of parts powdercoated and have not once have this happen, Never even heard of it until you mentioned it awhile back.

Joey

[Eric]

When I had my 39 tub powder coated he asked if I could have it stripped/or blasted first because of that... he then ran it through the oven/heat first with another job to see if that would release the gal gasses first...
then he coated it... had no problem

the guy who does your plating... does he have a big enough vat to dip/strip the tub? that would do it... just have them strip it all off but then you'd have to get it coated fast... bare metal... Green Bay weather... not good

[SIGNGUY]

Since I've posted this, I've been talking with him some more, and doing some more research and yes we do blast the peices ahead of time, but maybe not good enough?  I'm going to try another guy, going to see him tomorrow.
I've also read that Pre-baking the stuff is a good idea to get it to release the gasses before powder, so may try that as well.
just was curious as to others experience... I still love the powder coating , we found a color that looks just like the zinc process we first used, but  I think the powder is better...

the stuff turns out really nice, he just wants to do it only once per item and not twice like whats been happening...

[collecture]

I had more problems putting the bottle rack back together...Everything was a tighter fit...Do you drill the holes out a little before sending the stuff to the powdercoater?

The only thing on a stack that I would PC would be the faceplate - everything else zinc plate with minimal thickness.
On my coin mechs I have to specify minimum thickness on the zinc plating. If I don't, lots of things don't fit. Even still some parts give me problems. I know some colors in PC are a 2-step process, which means double thickness. Check with him next time about a single layer color.

[SIGNGUY]

Still zinc most of my bottle stack parts... just for that reason.. I've had shelves and tubs powdered...
I think i did have some parts on a stack powdered once to try it ,but dont' recall any issues?

each one is different, and each powder coat guy will be different too I'd guess... just a matter of finding the right combo.

[RC kid]

Yep. it happens. And like those before me have said, the parts can be run through the heating process to get the item to off gas before the powder is applied.

I prefer a hamertone finish to the powder. Less expensive and I think it looks better to..