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Author Topic: Ideal 70 Slider Pics?  (Read 3496 times)
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gct123
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« on: August 20, 2011, 08:54:21 pm »

Does anyone have any pics of the tub section of an Ideal 70 slider?  When I bought mine the inside was partially disassembled and I cant tell what goes where or if I'm missing something.

Also, what's the best way to remove rusted and stripped screws (stainless trim screwed to galvanized)?  Do I need to drill them out?

Thanks,
Greg

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bubba
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« Reply #1 on: August 20, 2011, 09:46:28 pm »

Sorry, no pictures, but for stripped out screws, I try to use a dremel and cut a new slot through the middle of the screw head.
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Ken

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loman4ec
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« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2011, 09:49:58 pm »

Or I like to use a screw extractor. They are bots that go into your drill run the drill backwards and they bite into the screw and remove it. For rusty screw it often snaps the head off but it does the job.
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Wojcik
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« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2011, 09:58:04 pm »

Auto part stores sell a penetrating oil called Sea Foam that works good on rusty screws.
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gct123
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« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2011, 10:51:04 pm »

Those sound like some good ideas, thanks
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Ken R
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« Reply #5 on: August 21, 2011, 04:18:22 pm »

To avoid stipping the head of the screw, if it's not already done, I usually take a couple of days and soak them really good with a penetrating oil, like WD40 or similar product.  I put it on for a day, then go back the next day and put some more on, then wait another day or so after that to give the oil plenty of time to do its magic.  The oil will usually work its way in pretty good and loosen it up.  When attempting to remove the screw itself, make sure your driver bit is seated completely in the screw and be sure to apply pressure against the screw to avoid slippage.  Apply gentle but steady pressure to unscrew it.  Doesn't always work, but I've had pretty good luck by taking my time with it rather than rushing it and stripping it out.  Once stripped or broken, you may run the risk of causing more damage to the part itself and not just the screw.  Just my technique.  If all else fails of course, dremels, extractors, and drills work great also.

Ken
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Creighton
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« Reply #6 on: August 21, 2011, 04:29:05 pm »

I've had good luck with PB-Blaster. Haven't tried Sea Foam.
Creighton
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gct123
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« Reply #7 on: August 25, 2011, 06:14:52 pm »

Thanks Ken, Creighton
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indymanjoe
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« Reply #8 on: August 25, 2011, 07:17:05 pm »

To avoid stipping the head of the screw, if it's not already done, I usually take a couple of days and soak them really good with a penetrating oil, like WD40 or similar product.  I put it on for a day, then go back the next day and put some more on, then wait another day or so after that to give the oil plenty of time to do its magic.  The oil will usually work its way in pretty good and loosen it up.  When attempting to remove the screw itself, make sure your driver bit is seated completely in the screw and be sure to apply pressure against the screw to avoid slippage.  Apply gentle but steady pressure to unscrew it.  Doesn't always work, but I've had pretty good luck by taking my time with it rather than rushing it and stripping it out.  Once stripped or broken, you may run the risk of causing more damage to the part itself and not just the screw.  Just my technique.  If all else fails of course, dremels, extractors, and drills work great also. pb blaster,wd-40 etc...spray it and wait...then wait...spray,wait some more...repeat LOL.us DIY/selfers have the time to wait.ive freed alot of rusty bolts etc..by spraying with your fav penetrant and it seems to me that time works well with rusty screws,bolts.if possible a little heat does wonders as well with the above.Key words being "little heat" and "spray and wait" my 2cents..

Ken
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