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Found another one.  I am putting off the restoration on my 2 other Cs to do this B.  I already have a restored C in my basement malt shop.  It actualy works on a nickel.  I have never boguht a Seeburg in which everything worked.  It should be pretty easy.

I will keep you posted on the restoration process.  I took out the guts and tested them on my work bench.

Brian C

Nice box, i have one, they sound great when done, good luck with it . jeff

I actually like the "B's" better than the "C's."

Years ago I wanted a "C."  Ten years later I wanted an "A" or a "B."  Now I'm partial to a "W" or a "KD200."  In reality, any of them would be fine. :hopefull:

Nice looking "B". Good luck with your restoration!

I like all of those Seaburgs from that era... W,G,B, R's... all very cool.
I have a G that I love.. but would like an R someday...
Good luck on the resto....can't wait to see it finished

I just gave one away that had wood damage.

Gave away what? A "B"? Was it otherwise complete?

And spesking from experience,  a cabinet can be rebuilt.  8)

You gave away a seeburg B?  I thought I stole it for $300 bucks.  Any thoughts regarding veneer?  I have used a pre glued kits in the past but I think I would like to try a better solution.  They look okay but I know I can do better.

Let me know.

Brian

Brian,

I used paper backed veneer for my M100B and it turned out pretty good. Only a few special tools required and noe of them cost more than $20 a peice. I personally wouldn't laminate it or paint it. They just look so much better with wood!

The original Zebrawood finish can be replicated using Zebrawood veneer if you like. The original finish on "B's" was actually an adhesive backed decal of sorts. If you've ever sanded one down you know exactly what I'm talking about. Here's a picture os what mine looked like before and after.

After:

      Wow.........beautiful job!

Brian:

Did you have seems.  The B is 26" wide and I can only find veneer that is 24".  I had seems on the Seeburg 100b I did for my parants.  You had to look close to spot them but I wanted to avoid seems on this one.  I want to try a diffenert veneer. The iron-on veneer worked good but I wanted something a little nicer.  Let me know

BC

Very sharp.  Makes me want one even more!!

Brian,
try Oakwood Veneer,  They have every wood imaginable, in every style you can think of, including Zebrawood which looked pretty darn close to the orginal style saeeburg used on some of there machines.  And they can sell you 4 x8' sheets
http://oakwoodveneer.com/

Thanks Kilroy

Brian C

Guys
  If your ever looking for a Jukebox please let me know. I just had a really nice looking origonal complete "R".
  Tom

Brian B that look really nice how long did it take you to get it restored ??
 and also it look like  it in a front room ? How did you get that by the wife ??

  Pat

I have one of my jukes in the front room...
You move it there in the dead of night and stick on a few 45's that you know your wife likes...

When see moans you say  "I moved if for you and put your favourites in... You know how much I dislike those songs.. I did it all for you." .... Hey Presto...


By the way... Brian as always a fantastic job... You have some lovely toys...

Brian -

I special ordered a 48" wide roll. Yes, there are seams. I wanted to keep the physical layout as original as possible. It would have been a WHOLE LOT easier if I didn't use seams though!  :biggrin:

Pat - It took me aboiut 7 months working on it here and there. It was a very fun project! The only parts that don't bring it back to 100% original are the veneer and I also had all of the aluminium trim chrome plated. Usually I'm not about "flashy" chrome add-on's but on this project I thought it would look ok.

There re three main types of veneer on the market. PSA (Pressure Sensitve Adhesive) Backed, Heat Activated and Paper Backed (Glue-on).

I have never used PSA Veneer but will probably try that next. I've used the other two with great results. Using the paper backed means that you have to glue it with basically rubber cement and then roll it and weigh it down to get it where you want it, fairly challenging for the first timer. It's all about proper placement on the first try. Once two peices of material coated with tacky cement on them meet they don't move a whoile lot afterwards!

Another company that has top notch supplies for veneering is http://www.vandykes.com/category/veneer (http://www.vandykes.com/category/veneer)

Thank Brian:

This is my 3rd full Seeburg restoration.  I will post some of the pics as I move along.   I am looking forward to having a 'B" as well.

Brian C