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<font color='#000000'>I want to make sure I get this correct. Line 1 & 7 is jumped together and tied into one side the push button switch. Then the other side/line goes to 3?

1 = 117 VAC (Hot)
2 = 117 VAC (Neutral)
3 = VEND RELAY - NORMALLY OPEN
4 = NC (No Connection)
5 = Exact Change - Normally Open (NEUTRAL)
6 = (HOT) ACCEPT COINS
7 = VEND RELAY-NORMALLY CLOSED (HOT)
8 = NC (No Connection)

I don't understand why the VEND RELAY (7) is listed as hot unless that is after you plug the coin mech in. I understand the VEND RELAY (3) as being open since this goes to the relay. When power is applied to the relay. It allows you to vend a pop. Also I found on the board if you jump say 1 to 5 it causes the correct change to stay on. This makes sense

Thanks,

ussexplorer</font>



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I have a Rock-ola Pepsi 5 button machine. This is my first pepsi machine. I tried the Free Play Switch on it but when i press the free vend button i stalled it make a snap sound and when a selection is pushed i get no response. I have also tried the coin mech, and the coins just drop straight through. I did plug the coin mech back in before trying. Any thoughts?

Just my two sense but I've run into connection problems with the Jones plug. I bend the prongs out a little to get a better tighter fit and it has worked every time. Ive gotten new coin mechs and thought they didn't work until I did this. Just a thought :biggrin:

I learned not to play with electricity about 40 years ago when my dad was changing the blade on the lawnmower.  He told me to hold the spark plug wire so it did not make contact with the plug.  Unfortunately, he did not tell me to hold it by the insulated part of the wire.  The blade turned and  . . . arm still hurts everytime I think about it!

Anyway, I looked at the diagram and it look fairly straight forward.  I assume this will work on a Cavalier USS 8 64?

Can really screw the machine up if I do something wrong?

What gauge wire should I use?

Where is a good spot to hide the switch so it will be accessible but not show.  I want to avoid making any visible holes on the machine.

THANKS!

I have a Cavalier USS 12 96 with a Coinco S75-9800A.  When I went to hook up a free vend switch following the diagram in this forum I found that there is no wire connected to pin 7.  So at least on mine there was no need to jumper 7 to 1.  I simply added a N.O. switch across 1 and three.  Seems to work fine.

i have a La Crosse LCV-136-4 does this work for that model as well or is there a way to set this model for free vending as well please help me i am out of hair to pull out :darn:

the free vend switch diagram will work for the two cavaliers , pin 7 is typically needed on some Vendo models, so if you don't have a contact for pin 7 in the female socket, it will work fine just by running the momentary switch across pins 1 & 3 ....

as for the Lacrosse, it should work for this model too, unless for some bizarre reason your pin # 3 isn't the one used for the vending trigger going to the vend relay typically used on multi-selection machines.  so if you have a wiring diagram still on the inside door of the machine, I'd start there. also note pin # 7 isn't used on a LaCrosse.

Sorry I'm trying to make sure I understand all of this properly.  My machine has no coin mech in it at this time- just to confirm, the coin mech is NOT required for this mod, correct?  You just need to put the 3 connectors in the 1,3, and 7 slots from the switch you add and that's it?

Correct, the coin mech is NOT required.

Try just 1&3 first. If it doesn't work, then add the jumper.

i put it on my westinghouse wb102  till i find a changer and it works good.itried it out with a toggle switch at first just to check if it would work before i bought another switch

Well I have to say Thank You to all  :biggrin:  I printed the info and drove down to the shop.  The machine is now dispensing for free.  I thought I might take a micro switch and rig a trip on top of the coin box.  The problem is the machine is so clean and intact I want to just repair it as intended.  So with the manual and volt meter in hand its going to be a long week end.

 what about this will this work the same as the push button
http://cgi.ebay.com/FREE-VEND-SET-YOUR-SODA-MACHINE-VEND-FREE-1-/350340796391?cmd=ViewItem&pt=BI_Vending&hash=item5191f04fe7
im guessing you would just cross wire a plug as you would for the push button???

That plug is pretty dangerous. It would always engage the vend solenoid and will burn it out and possibly cause a fire. Squarefour what machine do you have? If you want it on free vend all the time I can show you a way to put it on free vend without any modifications or drilling depending on what machine you have. All you need is a tiewrap. When you don't want it on free vend just cut the tie wrap. This only works on slant shelf machines though.

glad i asked was thinking about gettin one to put on my machine
but think ill keep it at .75 now that i finally got it taking coins
and vending every time thanks for the heads up on that plug

bigred
Either make your own, or if you are going to spend the money, buy a free vend relay for $35.

i guess now that i have it accepting coins and vending right
 ill leave it set at .75 and keep it in front of my shop might as
well let it earn its keep lol

Loman4ec it is a Dixienarco 180/105-5.  I bet the vend relay is OK, and I only say that since it triggers when 1 and 7 touch 3.  I see what you mean about the over heat when the switch is constantly closed.  That is why I thought a micro switch trigger in the coin slot (any coin or slug) could trigger it, with the assumption a drink would be dispensed opening the circuit.  Any help is greatly appreciated.  I am going to dive into the coin selector this week end with the manual I down loaded here.  If you can put it into freeplay with a tie wrap, I am all ears  :help:

I don't see how it.... it's just  probably hard wired  across pins 1, 3 & 7   Because I don"t see any switch attached to it. If that's all you want then just buy the parts for less then $5.00 built and your own.

similar to the drawing for JohnieG.  but without the switch and using only two plug and one wire between pin 1 & 3  

http://soda-machines.com/discussions/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=871.0;attach=895;image

Ray

Yes that's right I was going to supply a micro switch and use the schematic johnieG posted.  The vend switch is open and when you shunt 1 and 7 then momentarily touch 3 the vend switch closes.  After a drink is dispensed the vend switch opens.  Requiring 1 and 7 to touch 3 again (hence the micro switch or door bell switch). in the coin shoot as a trigger location.  Or repair the original coin selector equipment.  I really appreciate everyones help, good discussion makes for good decisions

A momentary on micro switch works great with JohnieG's diagram. I like to drill a hole in the coin return  opening and put the button in the coin return. Then just stick your finger into the coin return and push the button to make a selection. The switch is so small that you can still use the change return. I buy my switches from Radio Shack. Some people on here have also made a bracket and mounted the switch inside the coin door so when you push the bent coin return it gives a credit. I haven't done this yet but it is a really smart idea.

I used a door bell, and put a piece of bracket right on top of the coin mech, so when you pull down the coin return lever it pushes the door bell button, and allows a vend.

you shouldn't use a doorbell push button, it isn't rated for line voltage ( it's only intended for low voltage use, ( in the U.S. low voltage is considered to be 75 volts or less) use a momentary/nomally open push button rated for line voltage 120/volts A.C. @ 1 amp minimum.

I have 2 or 3 gutted rejectors (metal) that have a switch installed.  Just push down the coin return lever for a free vend.
You just remove the stock rejector.  It will not work with coins though.

Also have a couple with relays, so you just push the vend button is all.
There are just Jones plug with a relay on the end.  We had made when I was
in the vending business.

I trying to get rid of this stuff if anybody is interested.

BG

How much are you asking?

How about $10.00 each plus what I pay for shipping.

BG

sounds fair...how many do you have? Do you have a PayPal address or do you want $$$ some other way, like a money order or check?

Basementgeek,

I'm in.... I'll take one!  Let me know !

Thanks

Ray

I have three (3) modified rejectors and 4 ones with the relay+ Jones plug.

The ones with the relays were made up by http://www.shafferdistributing.com  There are supplier for parts and manchines,
here in Columbus OH. We used them on soda machines once in awhile that wanted free vend on occasions.

Nothing is really pretty, all are used, but we were a vending business after all.

I would prefer a money order, but will take a personal check.

I still have a few assorted changers and a Coinco tester I would like to get rid of.
Also Jones plugs that I cut off from dead changers, about a dozen Coinco plastic
rejectors.

PM me whan you want more details.

Gary

basementgeek sounds like I could really use one of the items you described.  I believe that is exactly what I want to build.  Keith Snow 850-259-6469 or Keithsnow@cox.net    Thanks

Email sent.

BG

Thanks guys,

Today I bought a micro switch and 2 cheap extension cords.  I took out the guts of my coin acceptor and screwed the micro switch so the coin return presses against it. Then cut the extension cords, leaving about 1 foot of cord and the male plug,  trimmed the sides of the plug to make it thinner and cut off the polarized blade and the lead from it. Then soldered the cord to the switch. (ok, actually I soldered the leads THEN mounted the switch).

Works like a charm,  free vend when the coin return is pressed.

I'm considering using "stackable" plugs, like you get on the end of a Christmas tree light string.  That way I can plug the coin mech back in (relocate the microswitch somewhere else) and have the best of both worlds.

-Wayne

Just installed my Free Vend switch in the coin return on my CS-96, its hidden and does not hinder the coin return at all. Works like a charm. :drinking:

Yet another satisfied customer.   :happydrinkers:

Almost 24,000 views on this thread! Now thats what I call a useful piece of information.

I like the mounting location.

I have a Cavalier cs-80c model with the same setup you have , did anyone ever let you know how to set up the free vend? I need to set mine up also for this. thanks,

I have a USS-8-64, will this mod work on it?
I also would like to find out about my coin mech. How in the heck do I change the amount? :down:

Thanks in advance....
Dr. Cook

Yes this free-play switch will work on most almost any Vendo, Cavalier, LaCrosse or any other machines that uses the 115 volt 8-pin Jones plug on it's coinmech...

as for your particular coinmech, Cavalier used many different models & a picture may help a great deal, the spec. plate on the machine will really gives zero info on whichever coinmech it has.

Here is first pic....

second pic...

Right now it only takes nickles and 10 is the magic number. Quarters sometimes go into the change box and sometimes they don't.

OK , Ugh! it obviously a National rejector's unit, the back plate should be removable & you should find a red plastic wheel with a price window on the front,  you should be able to push down on the main wheel & rotate it to the desired price. (sometimes the instructions are printed on the inside of the access cover)  if it's rejecting quarters, then make sure you have some coins in both the nickel & dime change tubes.  also you might want to remove the top "Slug" rejector & pop it into the dishwasher with the movable door propped open with a pencil, let it wash in the top rack & air dry, use NO OIL when it's dried, the little pivot points are self-lubricating and see if that help.  have fun.  :tounge:

Right now it only has tubes stacked on top of each other that are for nickles.
Do I need a whole new unit to have the dime tubes?

Yeah basically, yours is the early model that only gives change in nickels (same as a Coinco 9800 series) if you need dimes in your change, then I'd go with a later model Coinco 9400 series(nickel/dime change), or a three-tube Coinco 9300 series or equivalent MARS coinmech. just make sure it has the 8*-pin "Jones" plug & is rated for 115 volt service,

*= PS the round pin in the Jones plug doesn't count although some people would call it a 9-pin plug (they are wrong) it's just an index pin so you cant plug the thing into the machine backwards.

Bump...I had to reload the diagram due to the servers being monkeyed with ( hacked), so I made some improvements....carry on then.

I've redrawn the diagram to show the basic components...

My Machine seems to be wired Differently.  There is nothing connected to pin one. 

I don't know maybe it is because my machine is newer.  I have A Cornelius Type 120


Deacon

Big bump but was knew someone here could give me an answer. Thanks to Kbareit (Ken) I now have a functioning vend motor and the last (hopefully) step to making this machine fully functional again, is to have it free vend. I have a Westy 102 and while the Jones plug adapter method seems like it should work, I was wondering if I could simply connect a plunger switch with two spade connectors and then connect that to the carrier switch? The wiring diagram photo was bigger than 100KB or I would have posted it.

The only reason I ask is because, if it worked, I could then mount the switch to the inside of the cabinet and use the hole I drilled for the crank vend assembly. I figure this would look better than having the switch up near the Jones socket and having a random hole in the bottom of the machine!

You may be shocked to learn ( literally the hard way) that the entire vending control circuit on a 'Westy

"select-a-matic" (models 60, 78, 102...etc)  is line voltage (120 volts) beware  :wow:

Why would you even want to mount a switch & drill a hole down by the vending motor? it would look retarded. (politically incorrect '60's slang) use the jones connector & save yourself the trouble of hacking up the wiring harness any further.

PS ..it's name is a Momentary push button or contact switch, not a plunger switch  (a plunger switch/dynamo is used to set off an explosive charge)  :tounge:

Wow, 120 volts was way more than I was thinking, good thing I didn't mess around with it too much.

Should have clarified about the hole. The hole is already there from an attempt to make a crank vend mechanism a while ago. This was after I had researched replacement motors over the web and even ran out of luck on this site. While it obviously looks dumb now (and I do plan on filling it later), the thought process at the time was that a crank vend was my best bet. That's why I figured I could try and save face and use the hole.

I had a feeling it wasn't the proper name but to be fair, I did do a Google search for plunger switch and that's what came up. Regardless, I'll use the proper name(s) now lol

Your doing good really, I guess you could make use of the existing hole. but I'd personally use an appropriate size electrical type push-in hole plug & paint it as close to "Coke" red as possible via ye olde rattle can spray & mount the a mini size freeplay switch  inside the coin return chute opening ( Radio shack has some 120 volt rated momentary push buttons that work well, just make sure to get a "normally-open" switch)  the hole plug you can pick up at a big box store like Home depot or Lowes, ACE, etc. at least the vend motors working now!

I have a feeling that's what I'll do. I have leftover red from when the machine was sprayed so matching the color shouldn't be too difficult I would think. That's where I was planning on mounting it as well. Kind of funny when you think about it... press down a lever to get your money back but this time, get the drink instead

If you have any problems Tom I'll be down your way on the 20th. I have some install work to check out and would be able to help you out if you need it.

Thanks Ken. Hopefully I'll be able to figure it out by then but if not, I'll try and give you a heads up before the 20th

Well had some moderate success tonight. I was able to connect the vend motor up properly and got it to rotate once after plugging it in but after that, not so much. I followed Johnie's diagram and plugged into the correct slots in the Jones socket but no luck. I'll try and upload a picture of the switch I used but basically, it was a momentary push button with two spade connectors on the bottom, wired to two pieces of 18 gauge wire, two more spade connectors, and two "hot" prongs replacement ends. The hot prongs were then inserted into the Jones socket, slots 1 and 3

And here are the ends of the switch:

Can anyone think of what went wrong? Was it my switch or possibly the wiring from the vend relay to the Jones socket? Something else?

My WB-60 needs the extra wire jumping from #3 to the #7 pin. Look at the diagram again on page 1 of the thread.

What was the switch rated at .....voltage and amps?

This is the switch I bought:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062496

Unfortunately I bought the switch before I read the reviews but it'll serve its purpose for now... if its rated to handle what I need from it.

I was able to work on it tonight and while I unfortunately forgot the new wiring I bought (thought I left it at the apartment), I brought the old free play switch that came with the machine when I bought it. It was a Jones plug with the appropriate wires connected to the old push button. The wires need to be replaced as there is a lot of fraying but I connected my new switch to it and sure enough, the motor turned. However, whenever I would push the button, there was a popping sound somewhere in the wiring; seemed to be right around where I connected the new to the old.

My question now is, is this a bad thing (I'm assuming it is) and if it is, should it cure itself once I replace the old wires?

So the motor rotated when I plugged the machine in again but whenever I hit the switch, it tripped the breaker. Unplugged things that were on the same circuit, tried again and... tripped the breaker. I'm certainly no electrician but does that mean there's a short in the machine somewhere? Any help is really appreciated

going to use a wifi relay board as my switch so my smart phone can triger free play :drinking:

Friggin genius!

I could do this with my zwave system. Mind if I use your idea?

have fun

The wiring diagram shows pin 1 going to the momentary swith and the output or the switch jumperd to pins 3 & 7 but in one of the digram showing the plugs inserted int the jones plug it shows pins 1 &7 tied togeter to one side of the switch and the other side of the switch going to pin 3.

Can someone clarify or are they both correct

Thanks
Eric in CT

They are both correct in a sense, however some macines require a continuous "signal" to be present on pin #7  (ready to vend) while others require a momentary pulse to pin #7

Most bottle-shelf type machines just  need the momentaty switch between pins #1 & #3

Usually multi- selection push button machines require #7 to be "hot" in order to enable the push buttons and/or set the credit hold relay....

Hope that helps

Great reply. Thank you !!.
Creighton