SMC Discussion Areas

Ok, had to go in to the door to replace the balast.  Should I replace this insulation?


Which of these statements is true?
a. The original insulation is crap and should be replaced whenever you are inside the machine with the pink stuff.

b. the original insulation is marvelous and the factory fit it better than I will ever be able to. Removing it is a waste of time and will only cost me money, time, and itchy arms.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3245/2770282000_b56aea6c01.jpg?v=0)
Doing this tomorrow so any help is greatly appreciated.

ALSO>>>> Can I just cut the wires close to the balast and splice back in, or should track them down to where they are spliced in to avoid having multiple splices.

Sorry for all the questions, but thanks in advance for any help.

If the answer is a.  What is the correct stuff to use... Just regular fiberglass owens corning.  What is the correct size/depth to use for a door on a 110.

Thanks!

I would re-use the same insulation provided you can remove it without too much damage...

With this said, you may only have to remove the lower section because I would recommend making a splice at the ballast. Since this is somewhat close to the vending door and condensation could be an issue, I'll be very anal and ask that you make sure the wire nuts splices are pointing in an upward direction. Why you ask, well... wire nuts can hold water if pointed downward and electricity has been know to do some crazy things; so, lets not allow a story to be told about what happens to a soda machine when... Call me crazy; just a thought...

Back to insulation. If you should decide to replace the insulation, R-19 paperless should do the trick! And where a long sleeve shirt and work glove while handling the old insulation as well as the new stuff!

Lastly, be sure to test everything before re-assembly ! ! !

Thanks for the quick response!

I swear I was not planning on removing the insulation...  :down:

It is done now, could not resist fixing a few dings in the door before putting it all back together.   Found quite a bit of moister in the bottom of the insulation as expected from reading previous post.  Rust as well. 

Off to find a local media blaster. This is spiraling out of control pretty fast... Anyone in the st. Louis area want to drive on over and stop me before I strip this thing completely down feel free  :biggrin:

I was going to say, I bet you find moisture, so since it was open like that.. put new in!

as far as stopping... it's hard to do just a partial restoration... cause the part you fix looks great, but makes the rest look bad so you just keep going.. sooner or later you have a 100%restored machine!

Good luck!

I would have used a rust inhibitor on the inside rust and replaced the insulation. I found that the paperless insulation was more expensive so I buy the type with the paper and peel the paper off. It is easy and works great.

Ok, so you just hit on my next question.  Can I just paint over said rust for now and rap it up? What would you all recommend for treating/addressing this rust for now? If that will hold me for a year or two I would really rather not have to put this whole door off and blast it?

Any other suggestions for rust removal down in the bottom of the door?  I have an aluminum wheel I was using on other parts, but seems kindof unlikely I will be able to get in there.

Thanks again.

I would use a rust inhibitor like por15. It chemically reacts with the rust and stops it from spreading. I wouldn't think of it as a permanent solution but I am sure it will hold for a few years.

Stop the rust before it becomes cancered metal.

Agreed, rust bad...

Is por-15 an acceptable solution, or do I blast this thing while I have it apart?

:happydrinkers:

Are you going to repaint the machine or are you just fixing an area. Sand blasting is always better but using a rust inhibitor prevents the mess of blasting. Also depending of how bad the rust is if you blast it you may end up with holes that need fixed. I think it is just a matter of opinion.