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Hi,

Well this just hasn't been my day,   I have a Vendo V2228-a  that has been working great for the last year.

Yesterday morning, I went to get a pop out and it was warm.

I've noticed that something in the machine was clicking on/off every few minutes.
Here is a vid of the sound.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO7VK7a70hI

The lower fan is/was always going.

So not only did I have that problem,  today my bonehead self pushed the vend button and it released a can, but darn it.  I had the shoot out, and the can fell into the cooling area and exploded.   Right as this happened the whole machine shut off.

I sure hope I didn't ruin the whole machine.  Is there a circuit breaker or fuse that can be replaced?

OK, I feel a little better now.
I just blew the GFI in the garage.  Reset that, and it all came back on now.


so now back to my original problem,  any ideas on why it's not cooling.

The lower fan is always on it seems.

If the compressor is bad, are there any places online where I can buy a new/rebuilt one?

Thanks
Chris.

I'm not a refridgeration expert, but sounds like your starter on the compressor is bad, do a search on this site for refridgeration problems/ starters, etc... you'll get some good info.
otherwise contact Eric at global Compressors, his link is on the bottom of the page.
Good luck

You could try a 3-in-1 starter/booster to replace your old start-run relay & see if that helps,

if not, you'll need a pro to swap out the compressor, it's not exactly a "plug-'n-play kind of an item. you have to have the proper equipment to cut out the old one & braze a new on in place & let alone recover & recharge the system gas (freon).

Eric might be able too help you out, (didn't catch where you are located) or perhaps a local refrigeration service.

JohnieG

I checked the 3 pins on the compressor to ground, and none of them read as a short.

I also measured from the top pin, to the lower left and got 13 ohm.   
Top pin to lower right and got 1.5ohm
and the 2 lower pins together and got 15ohm.

Does it seem like the compressor might be OK, with those readings?

Is there a way to check the overload/relay/capaictor?

Thanks

The readings you've gotten at the compressors' wiring terminals seem just fine, the top connector is the Common, the lower left is the Start winding, & the lower right is the Run winding.

there is no way to test the original start-run relay, as it's a current driven (controlled) device & it needs an electrical load to function ( the compressor windings themselves in this case)

Now is the time to replace the original start-run relay with an elctronic 3-in-1 starter/booster unit. ( or they also make a standard elctronic plain start-run relay) that will have 3 long color coded wires to attach to the compressors pins, white=start, black=common, & red=run. check online at Grainger.com uder the Supco brandname. you'll need the model rated for 1/5 to 1/4 H.P compressors (H.P.=horespower)

if the compressor still wont start with the 3-in-1 booster installed, then it's time for some service work on the bugger.

Also note, with a grain of salt, that these machines are 20<-->50 years old & you may get a few more years of service out of the original compressor, or only a few more minutes! the old 60-feet or sixty seconds warranty applies here. whichever comes first.  :tounge: so start running!

Hope this helps. JohnieG

Thanks,
Is this what I should be looking for?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4E238

Chris.

Yep! ding*ding*ding*  :biggrin:

I got the booster today.   
so I just unhook the old relay/overload and cap right?

I don't need those anymore?

Or do I still need the cap?  I'm not really sure.

And are the pins on a compressor, always in the same location?
Meaning

is the top pin always comon
lower left start
lower right run?

I dont' see any markings on the pins, so just want to make sure.

Well went ahead and gave it a try, and it's working now :)

Thanks for all your help.

There you Go, glad to hear it's up & running again!  :drinking: