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I am new to this forum and discovered it when searching the web for any information that might help me solve my problem with my soda machine.  I am just a collector of various coin op stuff, gas pumps, juke boxes, etc.--I do not do any restoration work myself.

I have a restored vendo 81 that works great except that the light in the door has stopped working.  Over the last year, I noticed that the bulb would turn off sometimes and when a pressed the light switch, it took 2 or 3 presses to get it lit and stay lit.  Eventually, it stopped working all together.

I did the first step and changed the bulb, pressed the switch but no luck.  I looked through the old 1958 service manual I have and there appears to be a "ballast' shown on the Cabinet Door Assembly pages.  First, is there a "starter" or other part that I can easily access like on my similar vintage jukeboxes?  Is this part I need to replace?  Any other ideas of what may be wrong here? 

I enjoy the machine as it sits in my den off the kitchen and my family uses it everyday, it looses some of its character sitting there lightless!

Thanks for any suggestions on how to address this question.

Your model doesn't have a starter (per-say) you are taking the place of an automatic starter when you use the "push-to-start" button,  first you push the light switch in until the tube ends glow, then you release it & the light "snaps" on ( or it should), but it sounds like you just have a bad tube (light)

to change the lamp, first undo the center strap that goes across the glass window that hides the light in the bottle door, then carefully slide the glass up ( dont let it fall!) then tip the edge of the glass panel out of the machine & using some kitchen type rubber gloves ( for beter grip & protection if the tube should shatter) rotate the lamp/tube about 1/4 turn one way or the other untill th eend-pins align with the slots in the sockets & tip the lamo out od the upper socket & pull it up out of the lower socket.

Thanks for the quick response!  I have already tried to change the bulb--in fact I that today.  Any next steps that might address the issue?

Welcome to the board keng,
May need to change the ballest. I don't have a 81 but suspect you will need to remove the door liner to get at it. Others will be of more help :-)
Creighton

       Sounds like you have narrowed down the problem to the ballast because the
switch is functioning properly and the new bulb functions no better than the old. :veryangry:
       The good news for you is your machine has been restored....... and here here is why!
       The main door needs to be removed and if it has been restored, it was removed
during restoration and hinges were lubricated and they are not likely frozen in place like most originals! It should lift off fairly easily (but the door light power cord must be cut first).
        Secondly, an original door liner and gasket would be trashed during removal since the
old rubber and plastic was so hard brittle ....but a restored machine has a new softer gasket and a new plastic door liner.
        Estimated repair time..........one hour
     

Glen,
The main door has to come off to change the ballast, or just the liner?
Creighton

Glen,
how do you know his machine has been restored? I guess I missed that part? but yeah your right... the door liner does have to come off to acess the ballast..
I'll see if  Ican shoot a picture of the assembley for you and how and where it is mounted. I am putting one back together this week.

The machine was restored by John Johnston in Brooklyn, and I would assume, the liner would have been done. . .but I am not sure.

This sounds like a bigger job than I might be comfortable with since I have never gone this deep into this machine.  Can a neophyte attempt to take the door off, cut the power cord, etc. or is it recommended to find someone to repair the machine.  I would hate to scratch the paint or damage it in someway. 

I could try to contact Mr. Johnston to do this or is there someone that can be recommended in the central New Jersey area that would be able to do this type of repair at my house?

If Mr. Johnston has a warranty on his work and you are still under warranty, I would call on him to do it.

It is really not that hard though if you want to tackle the job! If you are skiddish, take photos every step of the way! Besides - we are here to help you through any bind.

First - UNPLUG THE MACHINE!

It is possible to do it with the door hanging, but I would get some help.
If you can disconnect the live door wire from the harness, then yes it is easier removed. Have a thick moving blanket ready to lay the door down on!
Either way - remove all of the door liner screws (the liner screws should all be the same). If leaving the door hanging, leave the top screws until last and have hands securely holding the liner for the last few screws up top - it is heavier than you think, so have those hands holding tight.
Remove all of the insulation and place it on the ground in the same configuration as you remove it (I place the insulation on top of the liner as it is removed and in the proper location in relation to the liner). You should not have to remove all of the insulation
Disconnect the wire nuts (or cut the wire if there is enough slack to recreate the connection). Pay colse attention to which wires are connected together (or take a clear picture)
Replace the ballast and reinstall everything in reverse order making sure to get each screw through the liner and corresponding gasket hole.
NOTE: I like to install (or re-install) all of the screws like you would a wheel on a car (in opposites).

"light bulb"  - Has anybody ever mounted the ballast under the bottom shelf on the door beneath the liner? It certainly wouldn't get in the way - would the heat from the compressor affect it? Would most definately make it easier to change - will call it an 81E  :tounge:

What parts would I have to order and from where?  I assume I would need a ballast but will I need a replacement liner or gasket??  Does the door just lift off of the hinges or is there a trick to remove it? 

The Door just lifts off the hinges, straight up... It's heavy, probably 100-125 lbs , so it's good to have two people. make sure to cut or disconnect your wire first. I always have the wires seperated anyway, and just fastened together with wirenuts, that way the door can come off for next time you need to move the machine.. .It's much easer to move a machine around with the door off, Weighs less. (just a tip)

With the door off, follow what Tom said and you should be good to go.
As far as the ballast, not sure if Funtronics or Sodajerk works (Vending Suppliers which can be found on this site) carry that part... or any local hardware store should have suitable replacement, just bring the old one with you and ask at store.

I'd be cautious putting it back together and do the screws opossite of each other like Tom said and make sure you go in the same holes just as is.. as sometimes these doors tend to "Warp" one or way or the other and not close tight on one end or the other. just replace where the are and you should be fine..

Good luck

One thing before you do all of this - try another bulb. I have had fluorescent bulbs bad out of the box.

Thanks for all the information and advice. 

I will first attempt a third bulb to validate it must be the ballast.  I will reach out for the restorer, Mr. Johnston to see if he is available to do the repair at some point in the near future (as it is years out of warranty).  If not possible or practical, I will attempt the repair myself as outlined by the many helpful posts I received to my question.

I will follow up with details of the final resolution to the ballast.  Thanks again all!