SMC Discussion Areas

Just picked up a glasco 50. I plugged it in to see how it cools and it seems just one side of the box is getting cool,and parts of that side are frosting after running for an hour and the other sided is barley getting cold , what does this mean for the cooling unit? Also It has a small internal fan that circulates air when the lid is closed , is this a common thing for glasco sliders?

If you look, there is a small flap on the lid which pushes a botton turning this fan on/off - this is standard on all Glasco's as far as I know.

The Glasco GBV50 that I had was outfitted with the lid switch and had a plug receptacle inside the refrigeration compartment for a fan.

If only one side of the box bets cold, that sides coils may have come sepperated from the liner. this is a common problem with many sliders, both Glasco & Ideal.

the cooling coils run along the inside of the tank/liner (length-wise) & are attached by solder-tack weld every so often to the tank, & then they are usually coated with some pitch/tar, over time this solder becomes corroded & then the only thing holding the coils against the tank is the tar, which is brittle to begin with, & once cold even more so, my guess is that the side that's not getting cold has this problem, (coils sepperation from the inside of the tank. it's time to take the top fasteners off & take a peek down the inside of the tank that's not getting cold to the touch. I think you'll find the copper coils floating between the inner tank wall & the insulation.

I'll give it a try next time I fiddle with it. Its a very nice clean original with very little wear . So I would be surprised to see it separated from the inner wall. The thermostat maybe bad as well, I turned the temp down and the compressor shut off and never came back on. So I plugged the compressor in direct and it fired right up ? Thanks for the input guys and more is always welcome. :happydrinkers:

If it's cooling and cycling ok, I'd doubt it was the thermostat, I'd say more along the lines of what JG was saying... I have  Squirt slider I'm trying to work on that you can hear the lines rattling inside when you move it... so they are obviously loose and the solder joints have broken away.
Good luck
Let's see a photo?

OK I bit the bullet and pulled the liner, none of the coils where attached and all the tar was non functional and all the solder tacks had failed . First question on a Glasco how are you guys reattaching the cooling lines to the liner? On my Ideal 55 it has solder tacks and has hanger brackets. Second ,The lines are only cooling one side and it's only the top three sections, does this mean it need to be charged ? I'll get photo's this weekend. Thanks for your help :help:

I'm working on my Ideal slider right now and the tank is the
next thing I will be tackling, John and I were tossing around a few idea's.
And I'm going to try the two of them  when I'm done I'll drop some
photo's next week, If they work  :oh: .
 Pat

I was thinking of u brackets drilled into the liner and attaching the ends  of the coils and then maybe a few I could reach in deeper,space gets tight the further u get in. Glasco's have coils all the way down the liner and underneath unlike the Ideal's that only have three half way down.I also thought about sound deadner paper.I work in a body shop and we put sheets of this in the trunk and in the doors of cars like the factory on higher end cars,it self adheres like contact paper and I think some is like a tar paper? Just a few idea's, will see what ends up actually working. :biggrin:

actully My Slider is the same the cooling line runs all the way down and
on the under side of the tank. :Oo:
Pat

      The coils should all get cold. If a system is low on freon it
could have a small leak and should be completely serviced before
re-installing the inner liner.
       
      When ample new fiberglass insulation is installed, it will push
those cooling coils pretty tight against the front and rear walls
of the liner.
 
       I don't think the original copper coils were really soldered
to the galvanized tank, they just used a lot of tar.

What kind of freon does it take?And how much? My brother does heating and air and has a leak detector and might be able to help. Or is this best left to the pros? Who do I look for locally? How much can I expect to spend? Thanks

It originally took R12, between 9-12 oz. depending on the compressor model.

If you don't have the equipment, you'd best leave it to a pro.