Title: Wheels
Post by: collecture on January 19, 2007, 04:45:44 pm
The V39 I just bought had wheels attached to the bottom for easy movement. From looking at them, they are the same type caster used on many coolers. They are in great shape - still rotating and rolling.
I would like to use them on my WD-5. Two of them are fastened tight to the frame and two are loose a little (1/4"). On the two that are loose, the whole shaft and bearing plate spins when you try to unscrew the nut.
What is the best way to remove these?
I would like to use them on my WD-5. Two of them are fastened tight to the frame and two are loose a little (1/4"). On the two that are loose, the whole shaft and bearing plate spins when you try to unscrew the nut.
What is the best way to remove these?
Title: Wheels
Post by: Creighton on January 19, 2007, 05:59:40 pm
Hey Tom,
Great scores of late!! Maybe soak in PB-Blaster and grab the shaft with needle nose vise grips? Picture?
Creighton
Great scores of late!! Maybe soak in PB-Blaster and grab the shaft with needle nose vise grips? Picture?
Creighton
Title: Wheels
Post by: BryanH on January 19, 2007, 08:04:33 pm
Tom, If you can make it work, put some undiluted CLR in a couple of plastic cups... and let it sit over night.
Title: Wheels
Post by: collecture on January 19, 2007, 10:56:14 pm
Below are two pictures of the wheel.
The first one is of the nut of a tightly secured wheel.
The second is of one of the slightly loose wheels.
The first one is of the nut of a tightly secured wheel.
The second is of one of the slightly loose wheels.
Title: Wheels
Post by: bubba on January 20, 2007, 07:15:16 am
Tom.. do you have access to a torch??? Here is a crazy trick that should work, but gotta be careful...
Heat up the nut with a torch-- acetylene if possible.... good and hot. Next, spray the stud with WD-40 or penetrant of choice. The object being to cool the stud a bit and help separate the rust... Then hit it with an impact gun... The WD40 is gonna make some big smoke, but this method had gotten off many an exhaust system and bolts that should have never come apart.
Heat up the nut with a torch-- acetylene if possible.... good and hot. Next, spray the stud with WD-40 or penetrant of choice. The object being to cool the stud a bit and help separate the rust... Then hit it with an impact gun... The WD40 is gonna make some big smoke, but this method had gotten off many an exhaust system and bolts that should have never come apart.
Title: Wheels
Post by: collecture on January 20, 2007, 10:52:10 am
Thanks for the tips.
My problem is that somehow I have to secure the wheel and shaft, yet leave access to the nut;
otherwise, everything just spins.
I have seen far worse situations with some of the feet. This machine is pretty clean down there.
My vice grips won't work because of the lip in the metal.
There is not enough space to get my needlenose grips around the bearing plate. A C-clamp gets in the way of the nut.
b4 
My problem is that somehow I have to secure the wheel and shaft, yet leave access to the nut;
otherwise, everything just spins.
I have seen far worse situations with some of the feet. This machine is pretty clean down there.
My vice grips won't work because of the lip in the metal.
There is not enough space to get my needlenose grips around the bearing plate. A C-clamp gets in the way of the nut.
b4 Title: Wheels
Post by: MoonDawg on January 20, 2007, 11:38:35 am
Can you remove the nut holding the shaft the wheel spins on?
Wheels that were optional for the 39 were 2 in the rear and were used as a dolly. These steel wheels will probably roll pretty rough. Why not cut them off and buy new quiet ones for your cooler?
Wheels that were optional for the 39 were 2 in the rear and were used as a dolly. These steel wheels will probably roll pretty rough. Why not cut them off and buy new quiet ones for your cooler?
Title: Wheels
Post by: sodaworks on January 20, 2007, 11:51:40 am
I agree with Glen, the bearings will probably be shot. New casters are cheap. check with Lowe's if not Graingers.
Title: Wheels
Post by: collecture on January 20, 2007, 12:50:24 pm
QUOTE
...the bearings will probably be shot. New casters are cheap.
These are still in great shape - rolling and rotating.
I'm a purist when it comes to my machines - original parts and accessories if I can.
I have tried several casters from different sources.
The problem is those that attach with a shaft like these are 3-inch wheels
and there is not enough room in the "wheel well" of the cooler for them to rotate a full 360, which hinders the free movement of the machine.
Those that are small enough either don't have the heigth or mount with four bolts in the corners.
The four bolt casters are my very last resort.
If I cannot remove these for use, I feel I'll find some eventually.
According to the manual, the optional WD-5 casters as the same that were used
on almost all of the Westinghouse chest coolers.
Title: Wheels
Post by: Jim on January 20, 2007, 10:19:34 pm
Tom,
You could try a nut splitter, at least that's what I've been told the tool is called... You might have to search a little to find one. I've used this type of tool more on gas pumps than soda machines but has proven itself as a good tool to have around... Kinda like having an easy-out tool; it doesn't get used much but it's needed, you're sure glad you have it!
If everything spins, can you tell if the threaded insert that is normally spot welded to the base has broken free...?
After another quick review, a saws-all blade may fit between the base plate and the wheel to cut the bolt...
You could try a nut splitter, at least that's what I've been told the tool is called... You might have to search a little to find one. I've used this type of tool more on gas pumps than soda machines but has proven itself as a good tool to have around... Kinda like having an easy-out tool; it doesn't get used much but it's needed, you're sure glad you have it!
If everything spins, can you tell if the threaded insert that is normally spot welded to the base has broken free...?
After another quick review, a saws-all blade may fit between the base plate and the wheel to cut the bolt...
Title: Wheels
Post by: bubba on January 20, 2007, 10:35:55 pm
Tom... you would be surprised what an impact gun will do... even with a loose shaft. quick bursts with the trigger on a good 1/2" impact gun will do amazing things. Even if you can put the slightest load on the shaft, maybe with a prybar or something, it should come off without much trouble.. Jim also is correct with a nut splitter, although I personally haven't had great luck with them, it is an option.
Title: Wheels
Post by: collecture on January 20, 2007, 11:17:08 pm
QUOTE
If everything spins, can you tell if the threaded insert that is normally spot welded to the base has broken free...?
Jim,
The threaded inserts are not there at all.
These are Westinghouse WD-5, WD-10, WD-12, WD-20 cooler casters mounted on there.
I haven't verified yet, but they look to be 3/8-16.
I bought some PB Blaster today.
I have to get the compressor out, clean the threads with a Dremel first.
Maybe tomorrow, but it is looking pretty full.
I hadn't thought of a nut splitter. Can they be utilized in corner areas like mine?
QUOTE
Tom... you would be surprised what an impact gun will do...
Bubba,
I bet I would, but I currently don't own one.
My tool buying is on hold until the home expansion is done and I get a shop.
Then there are quite a few tools I can think of that I need.
Title: Wheels
Post by: Creighton on January 21, 2007, 12:33:35 am
Tom,
I'd just cut the nut loose with a dremal and small chisel. Cutting wheel from two sides and break loose with the chisel. Nut splitters are great but doubt one would work here.
Creighton
I'd just cut the nut loose with a dremal and small chisel. Cutting wheel from two sides and break loose with the chisel. Nut splitters are great but doubt one would work here.
Creighton
Title: Wheels
Post by: collecture on January 21, 2007, 10:48:32 am
QUOTE
I'd just cut the nut loose with a dremal and small chisel. Cutting wheel from two sides and break loose with the chisel.
It might come to that Crieghton!
The compressor compartment is pretty clean though.
I am going to give PB Blaster a try first since the nuts and bolts are not that rusty.
Title: Wheels
Post by: bubba on January 21, 2007, 09:15:32 pm
(collecture @ Jan. 20 2007,11:17)
QUOTE
QUOTE
Tom... you would be surprised what an impact gun will do...
Bubba,
I bet I would, but I currently don't own one.
My tool buying is on hold until the home expansion is done and I get a shop.
Then there are quite a few tools I can think of that I need.
There has to be some reason to justify buying an impact gun while working on a house...
J/K... I thought you had one...
Another good penetrant is plain old motor oil... that stuff is pretty amazing on rusty bolts...
Title: Wheels
Post by: collecture on January 22, 2007, 04:21:57 pm
Well - I got one off clean and the other three had to be removed ala the Creighton / Dremel method.
I have them all soaking in Muriatic acid right now.
I then should be able to remove the axel bolts easily.
Thanks everybody for all your input and suggestions.
Bubba,
Once this addition is done to the house, then a lot of tools are going to be had.
Air Compressor
Impact gun
I would like to get a metal lathe, but not sure if I'll have the room.
yada...yada...yada...etc.
I have them all soaking in Muriatic acid right now.
I then should be able to remove the axel bolts easily.
Thanks everybody for all your input and suggestions.
Bubba,
Once this addition is done to the house, then a lot of tools are going to be had.
Air Compressor
Impact gun
I would like to get a metal lathe, but not sure if I'll have the room.
yada...yada...yada...etc.
Title: Wheels
Post by: aspbear1 on January 22, 2007, 08:11:07 pm
nut splitter ,,,,woooo that cant be good. Jim lets rename that tool, lets call it a tap divider. man that sounds better
Title: Wheels
Post by: collecture on January 22, 2007, 09:07:47 pm
QUOTE
nut splitter ,,,,woooo that cant be good.
Notice I didn't go that route. LOL
Title: Wheels
Post by: collecture on January 22, 2007, 11:21:24 pm
This is what the wheels look like after a rough clean and lube.
I think they will refinsh nicely when the time comes.
I still need to redo the 1/2 x 16 threads.
On the two wheels that were loose,
the threads are pretty much gone where it rubbed against the cabinet.
I think I can clean them up far enough down to get a good grip though.
I'll put a thick washer in if I have to.
I think they will refinsh nicely when the time comes.
I still need to redo the 1/2 x 16 threads.
On the two wheels that were loose,
the threads are pretty much gone where it rubbed against the cabinet.
I think I can clean them up far enough down to get a good grip though.
I'll put a thick washer in if I have to.
Title: Wheels
Post by: aspbear1 on January 23, 2007, 09:23:12 am
Looks good, I am just glad you did not have to use that tool Jim talked about...