Title: Restoration starting on cav cd 22 Post by: jasmine64 on August 17, 2005, 01:30:25 pm OK, I am starting the destruction/restoration of the lids on the 22. Working on one dual lid at a time because its so hot here.
I say destruction because the liners underneath the lids are in bad shape. They are cracked all the way around each one. All I had to do was lift it out with a screwdriver. Maybe had one or two screws holding on. That was the large ones in the corners. Got my bumper from Frontronics, need to order lid liners and gaskets. His phone is always busy when I call. Now how do I start repairing the rusted out hinge places. The hinges themselves are in very good condition and are tight no wobble or movement from them at all. The rusted out places are mainly above the hinge. Should I work from the back side of the hole and fill it with bondo and a spliced piece of metal? Need guidence. Pictures to come. I have to stand up to work as long as my back doesnt hurt hubby says go ahead. Dr says take it slow. Pulled muscle isnt fun. Title: Restoration starting on cav cd 22 Post by: jasmine64 on August 17, 2005, 01:35:40 pm Finally got Steve. He reccomends a fiberglass patch kit. Anyone know where I can get one?
He doesnt carry them. May try Autozone. Ordered my lids and gaskets. Title: Restoration starting on cav cd 22 Post by: jasmine64 on August 17, 2005, 01:49:17 pm Cracked lid liner.
Title: Restoration starting on cav cd 22 Post by: jasmine64 on August 17, 2005, 01:50:51 pm Inside lid.
Title: Restoration starting on cav cd 22 Post by: jasmine64 on August 17, 2005, 01:53:26 pm Lids with everything removed.
I found a patch kit. Hubby will pick it up and bring it home tonight. Title: Restoration starting on cav cd 22 Post by: firemun on August 17, 2005, 05:20:30 pm I would not want to contradict anything Steve would recommend, however, I would be a little hesitant of using fiberglass to rebuild the area the hinge mounts to. Here is why:
When the lid opens fully it stops (as you know) by resting against the bumpers on the lid behind it. If the lid is opened properly, you will be ok. Most folks however, throw the lid open and it "bangs" against the back bumper. This causes the lid being opened to act like a lever and put stress on the hinge. Fiberglass is very unforgiving and would very likely crack. A metal patch would be much more resilient. I have 3 westinghouse coolers similar to yours (a WD 12, WD 20 & wd 22). jeff Title: Restoration starting on cav cd 22 Post by: jasmine64 on August 17, 2005, 05:50:39 pm Jeff,
How do/did you like your coolers? Yes, your right. I am planning on the metal route with the 2 places that are the worst. ( missing bumper, water got in )Thank goodness the hinges are in very good condition as is the metal they are attached to. Then the easiest ones will be fixed with the fiberglass. They are smaller more easy to manage. Plus away from the bumper under the A. Title: Restoration starting on cav cd 22 Post by: firemun on August 17, 2005, 07:36:39 pm I really like mine but I am biased, the WD 20 was in my Dad and Mom's country store I grew up in (literally) and I formed a close bond with it having to stock it during my formative years...twice a day in the hot summer months. It was discardred in the 80's and my memories of it was what started my quest for a one like it which later developed into a chronic case of soda machine-itis. BTW, I found THE old WD 20 from the store Mother's Day weekend 2004. It had been passed around and eventually dumped and abandoned in some woods. It is in really rough shape but I am slowly bringing it back to life.
The 12 resides in my in laws produce market where it performs daily amazing the tourists and locals by providing drinks with little bits of mush ice on the hot days. I have been offered much more than I have in any of them but do don't plan on getting rid of them. I have one more wd 20 I am negotiating on...so as you can tell I like them a lot. jeff |