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I am having some cooling issues on a Cavalier 72 I have been working on.  The issues seem to be similar to what Greg Long posted earlier this month, but I did not see a response and did not want to assume they were exactly the same (his topic: http://soda-machines.com/discussions/index.php/topic,22624.0.html ).  Because the machine was in decent shape on the outside I decided to leave it original and only work on the inside.  I tore it completely down, powder-coated the tub liner,  disassembled the bottle stack and cleaned and repainted, replaced the bottle gate solenoid, replaced the wiring from the solenoid to the block, placed all rubber seals and installed a new wiring harness.  For the refrigeration unit I actually brought it to a member I met on the discussion site and he made it look close to brand new.  He found a leak in it, repaired the leak, recharged it, installed a 3 and 1, new thermostat and wiring harness.  His work was completed several years ago while I worked on the rest of the inside. 

A few weeks ago I put it all back together, but for some reason no matter what number I put the thermostat on the temperature remains around 40-41 degrees.  The compressor does cycle, but again the temperature does not appear to be changing much at all.  I did not try what Greg did and pulled the thermostat out of the tube.  Either way none of the seals seem to be leaking and so I am at a loss as to what can be causing this.  I thought maybe this was a cut-in cut-off issue that I could adjust, but there are no adjustment screws on the thermostat to adjust this.   

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. 

Here is a picture of the cooling unit:

So just disconnect the thermostat’s wiring connectors & wire them together with an insulated jumper, let the machine run & see how cold it will get.

This test will help determine if it’s a thermostat problem or something else.

Thanks Johnnie.  I will give that a try and see what happens. 

You stated that you replaced the thermostat. Some stats are rated 40 degree's +......... while the one you need goes from 0 up to to 40, Try your old thermostat if you still have it.

Hi Moondawg, unfortunately I don't have the old thermostat as it was kept by the person that worked on it.  The only place I have gotten thermostats from before is Soda Works Jerks or Funtronics and I don't see any sort of rating on them?  Are they only 40+?   Thanks, Nick

They (Thermostats) come in a wide variety of working temperature ranges depending on application,  yours is a medium temperature/ beverage cooler, so that usually means a cut-out range (turns off)of between 32-38 degrees F.  and  a cut in range ( turns on) typically fixed at around 40-degrees F

Is there a manufacturer & model no. on your unit?  (Example.   RANCO A30-2210)

Thanks for the info Johnie.  I will check for the model number on mine and report back.

If you do an internet search on the manufacturer/ model no.  you should be able to see the specs of your T-stat & what temperature range it’s made for

Thanks johnie. 

Johnie - The model number is A30-2210-070 and then says RAD (means RANCO?)  When I search online I can only find a model number A30-2210, but nothing with the -070 at the end.  The stats I see online for this show Normal Off Temp.: 32.0°F.  Also, as suggested I disconnected the thermostat wires and wired them together and the temperature got down to 32 degrees in 25 mins.  I assume this all means I have a bad thermostat?   If that is the case will this one work at funtronics:  https://www.fun-tronicsllc.com/product/thermostat-non-contact-style/   
 
Thanks,
Nick

Kinda looks like it’s bad then, the Fun-tronics. Part you have listed should work fine, just make sure that the sensing capillary doesn’t touch any part of the evaporator, just “air”

The funtronics T/S you referenced senses air flow temperature, so the probe will only sense temperature coming off the upper fan motor's air flow, (no metal contac)t.
What was originally used in your 72 was a contact style T/S with the cap tube coiled up and slid inside a tube inside the evaporator. ( Look at your first pic)
 Ask Janet for the proper factory replacement.

Johnie and MoonDawg - Thanks for the help.  I assume then since the one I have installed now is coiled up inside the tube in the evaporator it is the contact style.  I will get with Janet for a proper replacement. 

Okay so I purchased a new thermostat from Funtroncis of the "contact" style and have had it installed for several days now.   I did not coil it up, but clipped it on the evaporator tube (see the picture).  With the temperature control at 4 it gets down to 37-38 degrees which I thought would not be cold enough, but the drinks are actually pretty cold.   I am not sure if I need to be concerned about it not getting colder at 4 or not?  This control does have a cut-in and cut-out adjustments, but for now the temp seems to be okay as for as the coldness of the drinks. 

Picture of the newly installed thermostat:

Set the thermostat slightly colder, say 5 or 6, and observe the lower temp change...  This may put the cooler around 34 - 35 degrees which I think is ideal...

Thanks Jim, I will give that a try.

So the good news is turning the thermostat down to 5 has brought the temperature down to around 35/36 degrees which is perfect.   Thank you Jim for that and also thank you Johnie and Moondawg for your help.  Unfortunately now though I have another issue where water is pooling in the bottom of the tub. I cannot tell where it is coming from.  The evaporator fan sees to be working well and the compressor is cycling.  I do have a gap towards the top right of the door, but not enough to fit a piece of paper through and I also have the gasket around the inside of the cabinet.  Either way I will start to look at this now and start another thread if I have more questions...wait, who am I kidding...when  I have more questions. 

     Condensation is normal. The 72 has a hinged cup below the drain. When moisture accumulates, the weight of that water dumps it into a mason jar below. The hinge is often dry and stuck shut. Try oiling it, removing it if necessary.

good point.  I actually had the tub floor reproduced as the original looked a bit like Swiss cheese.  I then hand chiseled a well in it towards the drain hole and then powdered coated it.   The cup drain should be working assuming the water can get to it, but that is another good point.  I will check all that out and thank you.