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Haven't found anything to buy in ages so I pulled the trigger on a Popcorn Sez based off a couple photos and a conversation with the Owner.  Won't be able to pick it up for a couple weeks.  Owner says it is complete and has been sitting in their basement for over 30 years. It appears to be in decent original condition although the dome shows some discoloration in the plastic but no holes.  Any input from those of you who have worked on these that I should look for when I pick it up?  Any items that are usually missing?  I have seen some posts where these have a ceramic type heater and others that just show a light bulb.  Are there different models with different heating options?  Any thoughts appreciated

(https://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/0/5/4/4/3/6/webimg/977956867_o.jpg)

Here was mine. I bought it unrestored but it was complete and working. All original globes are going to be yellowed, as was mine. I had machine repainted and bought the decal kit from sodadecals.com and a new globe from Funtronics. My biggest mistake was selling it but will replace it with the same thing. It's a great and relatively inexpensive collectible.

That looks great!  Also glad to hear you liked it so well that you want to have another one down the line.  I have never sold one of my machines but just curious if the value of a restored unit covered the cost of the restoration.  Unlike soda machines, i am guessing the value of a restored sez unit is higher than a nice original.

Mine was a decent original, paid $500 for it. My restoration cost was $1,000. That included the globe and decal kit and it sold for $2,500.

    Popcorn machines use a ceramic heater to heat the oil, while popcorn warmers like the one above uses a light bulb to keep the product warm.

There is an actual heater in the Pop Sez machine. The light bulb is not the heater. I restore mine with the heaters unhooked and tell the buyer how to hook it up if he wants to use it. I don't want to be responsible for the warmer catching fire. They get really warm. They are probably safe but you never know how long someone might leave it on.

I got some additional pics of the Popcorn Sez I am going to buy.  One is of this document inside the machine.  Thought it was an interesting read.

I sure like the popcorn sez warmers hope to obtain one some day.

Like that , would love to own one

Was finally able to pick up my new toy and bring it home.  Appears complete but needs to be rewired before seeing if all components function.  Can't wait to dig into it.

That looks pretty nice. I would clean it up, get a new globe and leave the rest as is.

The machine had been repainted at some point long ago.  Since it wasn't truly original paint and I wanted a project to dive into, I decided to redo it.  Completed the tear down, clean up, and polishing. I have the motor assembly redone and ready to go back in the machine.  The body goes off to paint today.  Being done as a side project by my painter so not sure how long it will be before it gets back to me.  Really looking forward to getting this one back and putting it together!

Looks great so far!!!

Looks in good shape. Still looking for a popcorn vendor myself.

Excellent project ! ! ! 

Looking for a 10 Cent rejector for mine anyone have one?

Or could someone measure the rejector.  I have a rejector our of a countertop 27.  I was told that that S/D 110 rejectors work from a Vendo .

Great Project !!

I can get you any close up pics and dimensions off of mine.  What info do you need

A measurement of the rejector would be great!  I’ll compare it with the 27 rejector I have !!

Thx

Its exactly 4" wide by 5" high

Thank you Sir!

Will you be making this decal for the inside door ?

I considered it, but part of the hand drawn diagram is missing where the paper was torn off.  Since I don't know what that is, I decided not to try to recreate it.  However, since you brought it up, my interest has peaked, so I am thinking I might actually try to find that sketch.

It's interesting now that I go back and read the document.  I should have paid more attention!!  There is a line in the instructions that in bold letters tell you to BE CAREFUL turning the brass nut on the starting switch.  THIS IS VERY EASY TO STRIP.  I found out the hard way.  I had to replace the coin mech activator linkage that is screwed onto the starter switch.  There is supposed to be a square piece on top of it that was broken off, see pic below (You can actually buy this piece,other pic below, from Funtronics, which amazed me,  BIG THANKS to FUNTRONICS).  To replace the linkage you have to remove the brass nut that attaches it to the starting switch.  Mine had "fused" to the threaded shaft that comes from the starter switch.  I turned the brass nut and it seemed to unscrew easily and I did not realized it but I twisted the shaft off.  Now it was too short to put the linkage and the nut back on.  :darn:

The name of the company that made the switch was stamped into the switch housing and amazingly enough they are still in business.  I called them and sent them a pic.  They were very nice and actually talked with some of their long term employees, but the part was not available and had not been for decades.  I got lucky and was able to replace the shaft with a long screw.  Had to drill out the old shaft and was nervous I would crack the ceramic housing the shaft ran through.  fortunately it didn't crack and the replacement worked.  See last pic below with new threaded shaft and Funtronics replacement linkage

Glad the part worked for you. Looks like you got it figured out.   :happydrinkers:

OK Jared,  I took a shot at recreating the Maintenance Instructions.  Turned out to be a bigger deal than I thought because I could not find a font that accurately depicted the manual typewriter lettering that the original was created with.  Found several that were close and used a combination of them all to try to get it as close as possible.  Had to make some educated guesses for the verbiage where the paper was missing.  Also, the wiring diagram appears to be a hand drawn sketch.  I could have redone it and made it look nice and symmetrical with drawing software but I decided to try and duplicate the original look.  Attached is the document as it looks right now.  The only difference I see in my actual file and the one I posted below is that the periods in the image you can see have dropped below the sentence line.  They are not that way in the actual file.  Looking for any comments and suggestions to make it look more "original" or improve it in any way.   Added the photo watermark just to keep random people from copying it.  Once done, I will send it to any Jerks if they want it.

Can i get a copy? mcarter1990@hotmail.com

For a font that looks like typewriter go to dafont.com  there you'll see under "FANCY" fonts in the upper left corner the word "typewriter", click that and you get several fonts that have that look.

Another site I use is fontspace.com in the "search" bar type in "typewriter"... you get several options.... pick the one closest then download and install.

After typing it all out you can then adjust the leading so you can lower periods...

Very nice machine

Looks great !  Thanks for making the effort many will enjoy that on there finished machines !!

Well done Brian ! ! !
Thank you for sharing as well ! ! !