SMC Discussion Areas

I'm looking for some shelves for my cooler. Not sure exactly what to call them but they go at the bottom of the liner and the bottles sit on top its just a little shelf that elevates the bottles an inch or so off the liner and has some slots for air flow. These are the only pieces I'm missing. If anyone knows where to find some I'd appreciate it! Thanks!

Welcome to the Site .  The trays you are looking for are NOT reproduced.  I would measure both sides and divide it in half and go to a local metal shop like a HVAC shop snd see if they can make you some!  You wil need 4 trays total .

I restored one of these several years ago!  I caution you this is NOT s very collectible machine .  I would clean it up and use it as found.

Jared

Yeah that's what I figured I'd end up having to do just wanted some originals. Thanks for the advice! I'm not planning on dumping a whole lot of money into it just clean up the inside and refrigeration and leave the patina. Yours looks awesome!

The best advice I could offer.  What nice about the WD-10 it's a dry box .  You can put a variety of products in there to keep cool, for entertaining, etc.  I had trouble during the restoration process finding several parts that were needed.  The trays should be easy make. 

Good Luck,

Jared

Hey slapshot I was wondering if you could help me out with the shelves. I'm trying to figure out how they sit it looks like there's two bends at the bottom of the shelf maybe both about 1/4 to 1/2 inch long and it makes a little C out of 90 degree angles. Or is there just one bend and it sits on the edge of the sheet metal? Also is there a specific color to use for the inside? I was just going to get it powder coated...gloss silver? Regular silver?

There is just one bend and it sits on the edge of the sheet metal? I used a powder coat called super chrome .  The bend is about a 1/2 inch or so just enough to circulate the air through the the shelves.  The doghouse in the center covers the evaporator.

Ok thank you! I thought there might be another bend because of the weight.

You could do one more bend if you want .  I restored that machine 5 years ago so I can't remember...

So as I was tearing it down my thermostat that mounts onto the compressor pretty much crumbled apart. I don't see replacements for these anywhere and I have no idea how this thing works except that it burns up somehow if it gets too hot. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could do to replace it, or would it be ok to reinstall with no thermostat?

It will be very hard to find the older type thermostats.  You can replace it with a more modern type non contact thermostat .  Many people that have restored these chest coolers mount the new non contact thermostat on the top near the doghouse cover for the evaporator.  

You will need to splice the wiring up with probably a 16 gauge wire and a few crimp type spade terminals.  I would remove the back narrow evaporator line cover and use that has a neat runway for your wiring and mount it in the center of the box.  

Below the doghouse cover is the evaporator which which have a fan mounted to it which circulate the cold air into the cabinet.  I ended up moving up higher so the doghouse didn't cover it making it easier for and adjustment ...

Others with more experience may chime in hope this helps!!

http://www.fun-tronicsllc.com/index.php?crn=338&rn=609&action=show_detai



Jared

What you have there is your compressors over-current/ high temperature cut-out. ( think of it as a circuit breaker) It is an obsolete part that you aren't going to find on a shelf somewhere, someone may have a used one laying about, but you'd be ahead of the game by replacing the whole mechanical starter relay assembly of your motor with a three- in-one unit.

PS, it is not a thermostat. And no, you cant leave it out of the rebuild.

My Westinghouse manual lists it as part #80; thermostat ...

Yeah, well it's not,  it's a protection device, not a temperature control.  :tounge: 
Technically it's a thermostatic protection device.

Ok

Excuse my ignorance because I don't know much at all about electric and this is pretty much a learn as I go project, but since that thermostat you listed is a control device, how would that protect it from overheating? Or would I need to just run a fuse or something on the wire? Also I thought the same thing I wondered why it was called a thermostat if it didn't control the temperature so I looked it up: a device that automatically regulates temperature, or that activates a device when the temperature reaches a certain point. Interesting, I've never heard it used before in that context.

It is a protective thermostat used to insure that the compressor doesn't overheat. It has nothing to do with the temperature of the cabinet.

Yes indeed.  I stand corrected.

Yes but I meant the replacement thermostat here. https://sodajerkworks.com/onlinepartscatalog/westinghouse_677/wd-10/ep19-thermostat-detail That is to control the temperature and not to protect the compressor so I'm not sure how to protect it from overheating. What is that 3 in 1 system you mentioned johnie?

Ok so I realized that 3 n 1 was just listed as a start capacitor on sodajerkworks and bought that. In the instructions where it tells you how to wire it up it states that: you MUST use an ignition wrench on back nut closest to pump body. Do not let this nut move at all! Whoops! Guess who removed that nut. I'm pretty sure its referring to the three compressor leads you can see to the right of the thermostat in snapshots picture. Does anyone know why this nut shouldn't be moved? I took it off because the washers were rusty and I was going to replace them. Two are just normal washers and then the two in the middle look like special conductive washers maybe? Does anybody know what these are called so I can replace them with shiny ones? Thanks!

The back hex nut help compress the terminals pass-through connection into the pressurized case of the compressor itself, if you loosen it, the seal ( which is a hard rubber) may become dislodged & leak, or even blow out, and that will be the end of that.  So just replace the top nut(s) and use a backer wrench, if tge bottom nuts are corroded looking, use a fine wire cup brush in your electric drill & polish them up a bit, but again, be carefull.

Also know that if you should "twist" the terminal stud, you could tear the interior wire connection of the unit, also rendering you compressor into a boat anchor.

That makes sense thanks for the advice johnie.

I'm getting around to painting stuff the only thing I have left is the condenser/evaporator unit. I read some other threads saying they just rinsed it out and painted right over top? What do you guys suggest doing to paint these two? I also read that any paint on the evaporator fins will just flake off anyway.

Any advice?

I cover the overload and relay area with a plastic bag.  I gently spray some water and use a wet 320 sandpaper, rinsed it real good than use a air compressor to blow all the water out.  Let it sit for a good day and then use a high temp paint.

Ok thank you. So you do that for both or just the condenser?

Both

Awesome thanks for the tip. Will post some pictures when this things finished up.

Here are some pics of it completed. Was able to complete it in time for my going away party...I felt like I was on a fake tv show where they pretend to finish it right before the owner shows up. But that's what really happened, was up till past midnight finishing it up the night before! Still a couple small things to do. But after it was running for an hour or so it starting leaking from a very small pinhole in the suction line out of the condenser. I taped the crap out it, turned it off, and prayed it would stay cold for at least the next day since I told my family it would be there. Nope! Wasn't able to make it to temp, but was still able to be enjoyed and the kids didn't mind the soda being only cool. Good news is my friend is an HVAC tech so he said he'd help me braze it up and see if he could find some r12. Forgot to mention to him I have a spare unit so maybe he can suck the r12 out of that.