SMC Discussion Areas

I am just starting to restore a Cavalier 96 (Serial number implies it is an -A, but the size of the embossing implied -B on one web site. Whatever).

I have a place up here in the Seattle area that I am looking at using to blast, prime, and paint (using Delux cross-references of some kind or another, don't know exactly which brand) the large parts including the door.  My question is about the embossed lettering on the front. I'm not sure these folks have anybody that could paint the embossed logo before adding the clear coats, which means I either need to paint that after I get it back.

Am I going to have problems with the embossing painted on top of the clear coats from a adhesion or toughness point of view? Some companies sell "lettering" paint, I've heard of this "one-shot" stuff. What is best to put on-top, and what should I do to the embossing after it is painting? Send it back for more clear? Spray polyeurethane? Nothing?

I've restored many vintage arcade machines over the years, but this shiny-finish-paint stuff is a little different from powder-coating black coin doors so I'd love to steal knowledge from somebody with experience.

First off welcome to the board. Hope you get several responses to judge best way to proceed.
Good to see another PNW member. Myself the machines were never clear coated no need for it now. Original paint is Dupont enamel.
The locale car/motorcyle club/shops will know who is the best at hand lettering.
Creighton

I have had best luck with no clear coat . My brother has been in the paint business with shewing Williams for 38 years and he advised me not to clear coat anything due to the fact you can touch up the paint better with out it if you get a scratch. I always just use SW enamel and it has enough  shine for me .

Before doing your base color have your painter paint the lettering first.  Than apply a vinyl decal over the top of the embossed lettering.  Do your base coat, and when the paint dries remove your viny decal.  

If you are looking for someone to handpaint the lettering call around some local sign shops and ask for someone that can do hand lettering, or pinstriping.  

My signpainter uses an oil based paint.  If there is a mistake during the job it can be easily removed, dried, and repainted.

If you are up for a 3 hour drive I have a local sign painter that could do it for you... ( last resort)

Welcome to the Site!

Jared

http://www.fun-tronicsllc.com/index.php?crn=269&rn=1245&action=show_detail

Thanks for all the suggestions. I was under the impression from all the talk of taking machines to body shops that the paint system would be more traditionally automotive with multiple base coats and clear coats, but I think I'm getting a handle on it now.

The vinyl masking idea is a good one. I'll have to see if I can roll that into my chat with the blasters/painters. It may depend on how much they charge.

Checking with car and motorcycle clubs also a great idea. My old roommate had a classic firebird he took to shows and I'm shocked I didn't think of that possibility myself. I will ask around.



 

I used vinyl on my machine . I thought for now it looks good and can be removed it I decide to have it hand painted.

I am an automotive painter with over 30 years experience and on the topic of clear coating or not clear coating the embossed area of a Coke machine, I have had very good success with the following procedure...
Once the decision of what color you would like the embossed area to be has been made, base coat the entire machine with that color choice.  You should use a high quality base coat product such as PPG's DBC base coats or Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 system.  Next step is to clear coat the entire machine with 2 coats of high quality urethane clear such as the vendors listed above.  Once the clear system has been allowed to dry for a minimum of 24 hours with or without a bake booth, you will then sand entire machine with 600 grit sandpaper, preferably with a DA sander.  If you are not knowledgeable with using an orbital sander, then you may use 600 wet sandpaper and sand the machine by hand.  You will need to sand between the letters with a grey 3M scotch brite pad....Do not sand the letters at all, leave them with a shiny gloss finish....I will ex pain the reason for this further into this tutorial...the rest of the machine should have a dull appearance and with no shine at all.  Pre-clean with wax and grease remover and then paint the entire machine with your final base coat color including the embossed part.  Once the base coat has had a significant
amount of time to dry, approximately 1 hour at 70 degrees or higher.  Precede to sand the tops of the embossed
lettering carefully with 1000 grit wet sandpaper, until the underlying color appears.  This is an important step as you do not want to sand beyond your 2 coats of clear...this was the reasoning behind the clear coat application.  Use only the tips of your finger and light pressure when sanding the tops of the letters.  Wipe down the entire machine with a quality
base coat tack cloth, then apply 2 coats of urethane clear coat provided by one of vendors above. 
This is by no means the easiest way to paint your machine but it is a finish you can be proud of and the longevity will be much more desirable in the years to come.
I am located in North Carolina and if I can be of further help you may contact me at myrustedjunk@yahoo.com

Informative first post mshore.
Thanks!
Creighton

Thought I'd ad some pictures as my painter has used this system to paint my Coke slider.