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I've been wanting a bowler for a while.  I'm sure a ball bowler would be awesome, but I'd be just as happy with a shuffle machine.  $500 delivered seems like a fair price.

http://york.craigslist.org/tag/4122182182.html

Pictures are pretty awful and the add states that it needs new relays for the pin setting.    Can anyone give me an idea of what's involved with replacing the relays?  Availability, etc.?

Thanks!
Jim

Can't help with the relays, but that one looks nice and short and the price is right for the condition.  I'd be all over that if I had the space right now.

Does make you wonder why all the pics are inverted...is he using a mirror with the camera?

Yep - I was wondering that myself.   I would definitely check it out in person first, but that is weird.

That looks like a great game for the money. It is weird about the pics though. If it's that close by I would take the drive and go check it out. Then you may also be able to see for yourself what may be wrong with it.

A friend of mine picked up a nice one for 400.00 and it had relay issues and has had a repair guy work on it to fix the problem and just in repair and adjustment of the EM switches he's another 400.00 into it and it still has a few issues . So be careful . But they are a lot of fun when working properly .

Agreed. I've heard that they can be a bear to work on. You are talking about ALOT and I mean alot of moving parts. If you know where the bad relay is, it can be a simple fix. BUT like mentioned, there could be other issues and if someone else repairs it, that could run into big $$ because of time.

It's like a EM pinball Machine 10x

The pins reset with a motor.  It only uses the relays in the pin hood to retract the pins to make it look like you hit them when you roll over the pin switches.  Pin switches are the switches under the pins.  The little slots under the pins have metal wires that push down on a switch under the alley.  If the pins will not reset after a strike or the second frame, at least ask him if the pin reset motor is good.  If he acts like he does not know, have him rotate the cam that the pin motor is attached to.  This will make the switch that resets the pins and the motor will cycle one time.  If that works, then I would consider the game.

They are a lot of work.  It is not a one hour project.  Mostly taking apart everything (use a camera), cleaning, reassembling, and adjusting.

Coils can be bought at the pinball resource.  But before you buy, ask him what relays do not work and if he has the coil numbers which are on the coil or stamped on cardboard between the two coil leads.  You can then see if the Pinball resource has any in stock.  Sometimes he may not.  

Odds are it doesn't work and this guy has no clue and uses the old cliché that it must be a relay.  Have him send you a clearer picture of the relays in question.

THE NUMBER ONE PROBLEM ON ALL EM MACHINES IS OLD SOLIDIFIED GREASE.  IF THE MACHINE IS NOT TAKEN ALL THE WAY APART AND CLEANED PROPERLY. THERE WILL ALWAYS BE AN ISSUE.  DO NOT USE WD-40.  IT WILL WORK AND THEN GUM UP EVERYTHING.

Here's a video that I made a few years ago when I was working on a ball bowler.  It shows an example of how gummed up old solidified grease fowls up everything.  I used a score reel for an example.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uK9laNEC8U

If you watched the video.  Here is the results after the machine was completed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LsC3N9B9Q4

One cool machine. Had one in a bar I once spent time at in Pensacola,,loved that machine.

Hi Larry,
 I recently picked up a 1964 United Orbit shuttle bowler for $250.00 and watched  your video on how to get the score reels going ... Thanks it was very  helpful.. got them all working

Excellent!  I'm glad my video isn't just sitting on a shelf collecting cyber dust.  Glad to help.  Did you reverse the parts from player one to player six, 2 - 5, etc?  It's not necessary but it will make the game last another century.

I love all the games on that machine.  However, I am not familiar with "Flash Bonus."  How does that game work? 

Hi Larry,

I did flop reels 1 & 2  with 5 & 6 as you suggested, reels 5 & 6 were in much better shape then reels 1 & 2.
 
Here the describe of flash bonus taken for the instruction sheet inside the game.

    FLASH BONUS SCORING: Strike and spare scores are indicated by flashing lites.
         Frames 1 thru 10  advances the bonus scores 400 for strikes, 200 for a spare. After   
         the 10th frame, each player shoots an additional frame to collect the accumulated
         bonus score. A strike scores a full bonus. A spare scores one half bonus. A blow 
         loses the bonus score.

Any experience with the back glass starting to flake in spots?
Let me

Thanks,

Ray

Thanks for the info.  Basically you are playing Bonus and Flash.  The best of both worlds.  You collect the flash strike and spares and earn the bonus points for strike and spares.  How fun is that.  That sounds like it would be my favorite game.  Now I have to find me a 1964 game with that.  Where to put it.....hmmm.

United used plexiglass after the late fifties for cost reasons.  One advantage is that the paint never peeled.  If it is plexi, don't worry about it, it should not peel.  It still can get scuffed or scratched.  If for some odd reason that it is glass, use Krylon Triple Thick clear.  A craft store sell it or maybe a hardware store.  Great stuff, withstands the heat from bulbs, and does not yellow.  Some people tape the clear openings that they are used to read the scoring numbers, I just spray over them.  A large open glass area, like the bottom section of a gun game, should be taped off.