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I decided once I bought this machine I didn't want to restore it.  The body for the most part was straight, and the liner and most of the hard parts were clean.  In the past I have always been quick to tear everything down realizing that there is a lot more work, time, and expenses involved.

Started by doing some searches right here on SMC.  I was able to dig up some old threads with paints.codes and some refinishing tips.
I also went to the local paint store asked some basic questions.  They were able to get me squared away.

Process:

1.) Removed the vending stack, coin mechanism, compressor, coin door, and bottle door.

2.) Used a mild soap and vinegar and spayed the liner out scrubbed the inside with a scotch-brite pad.

3.) Wet sanded the entire machine with 320 grit wet sandpaper.  I used a foam block and wrapped the sandpaper into 1/3.  This process toook about 8 hours (2 full evenings).  I got the machine as smooth as I could and periodically check for high spots.  I wasn't concerned about getting it perfect.

4.  Paint:

      2 Coats of Sealer.   
      1 quart paint
      1 quart clearcoclear coat.   

    I have a lot of re assembling to finish but I would have to say I'm pleased with what I was able to do in a weekend spending 4 hours each night.

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       Fantastic job!   You got the hard part over with fast.

Good job...at this rate you'll be done by Saturday.

Thank you for sharing.  You've inspired me to get going on one of my project machines.  Keep those pics coming.

Jared...I think you have my address. With all this recent experience you have, what nights will you be swinging by this week to sand/repaint mine? LOL

Nice job!  I'm jealous!

Bob - you know, I could probably pick it up for you and deliver it to Jared.  :tounge:

I think if I ever decide to change careers I may go into the delivery business. 

Bob, my firends at Motor City Jukebox can paint  it when you're ready.

Graet job, I am about even with you, just need to order some parts for mine.  Good luck.  M

Looks nice, however i noticed in some of hte photos you still have the breaker strips and insulation in the machine?  was it not completely taken apart?
the only reason I ask is you may have missed a major area of rust that could eventually eat through your new paint job?  I would at least take the 4 nuts off that hold the tub in and you'll find that the insualation , especially on the bottom , between the tub and the lower pan will be pretty shot.. and most likely will have some serious rust in that area.

Youv'e gone through so much work already making it look good.. I would hate to see it start to rust through in a year or so and go through your paint.

it's only a few more minutes to remove it and overall it will give it better Cooling if you have new fresh insulation in it..

there are several tips I've posted on this site about putting in insulation or of course you can always contact me if you need more info.

It looks so nice, figured a few extra steps might save you some headaches down the road.

I have debated whether or not to pull the liner. If I was restoring the machine like others I would of pulled the liner.  There was no surface rust in the liner, and the breaker strips were perfectly fine.  I definatley understand the consequences not doing so.  My intent was to make the outside just one solid color.

Depending on my level of motivation I may do so.  My goal was NOT to restore it which just cost more money. I did no bodywork and their is no primer on it.  I painted it in open garage, no paint booth, no fancy paint guns , or fans.  It was $85 to paint it.  

But you make a good point.  One roll of insulation and a new drain tube...

Jared

Wow Jim...That's quite an offer as Jared lives in Washington State.  If you leave now, you could have it to him this weekend.

LOL

yes I understand it was a budget project and it looks GREAT.. don't get me wrong.. so another few extra minutes of your time to make sure you don't have rust and nice new insulation will also keep your running costs down too... just some thoughts..
Looks great ... did you spray the paint out of a gun or use cans?? really looks nice!

I used an older SATA HPLV paint gun.  The paint was a base coat , clear coat.  I just didn't buy the top of the line paint.  

So, I have read the the old drain tub is cut out?  I get that part but how does the new piece fit down the liner with the old piece from above still in place?

It would appear that the new drain tube would be he same diameter as the old one making it difficult to slip the new piece down below to attach the second section.

         Once you cut the tube and get the liner out the remaining tube will easily break loose, it is only soldered in.

If I pull the liner and the metal below it has surface rust can I just put a new piece of the same size as the false floor above it? Or does the old section ( flooring) get completely removed and a new piece put in it's place?

I can have my local metal shop make me a new piece.  I assume I could just tach weld the corners of the new flooring inside the cabinet walls?

Thanks.

in

Best looking $85 paint job I've seen.  What are you going to do with the embossed lettering?

I have a local sign painter that hand paints the lettering.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xZDfEJyDhI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

If you want to keep it on the cheap, consider giving the pan a coat of POR-15, you can fill some of the larger holes with fiberglass patches embedded right in the POR15. 

That was my initial thought..hhaven't researched where do get it yet, and the patches.

I think John is right though might as well pull the liner and do some investigating.

POR15 is great stuff, I used it to patch and coat the trunk on my Spitfire about 10 years ago.  It still looks like new.  You can get POR15 on eBay or a lot of online places.  Fiberglass patches are available at pretty much any auto-parts store.

One thing - if you do use it, PLEASE use a respirator or do it outside.  POR15 gives off some seriously toxic vapors.  It contains isocyanates, you don't want to mess with it in a poorly ventilated area.

Yes I've heard Por 15 is a great.. on a couple machines I "refurbished" , if found some rust, and was able to wire wheel most of it out.. then I used a Rust STop Spray I found at my local NAPA.. you spray it on, it turns the rust to Black and hardens it.. then I sprayed over that with some Bed liner material.. the pan was still in decent shape with no holes through it and the walls where also good.. so this worked.. hopefully you'l find the same..

If the pan is like swiss cheese, then I'd advise putting a new one in it.. but his involves drilling out the welds, but you have already painted the cabinet so not an option..

so I'd stop the rust and then lay in a new pan,, again this pan is to noly old the insulation in...

during a full restoration, I cut the whole pan out and put in new, but this involves drilling and welding which you can't do since you already painted.

Hope this helps.

Or you can put it together and use it and enjoy it  the paint job you did look good . :smile:
Later on when your ready  you can  spend the time do it . there lot of people here that can help
you out.

Hand painted...video to follow.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hItQMLBKJU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4niZD5FgSTA

Update...

looks great.

great job

The question is- will it make it inside? I thnk you have room next to your 56!

Inside for sure.  Will have to wait until the wife goes out of town to make the move! 8)

Sweet 8)
I love pics on newpainted machines.

What is better than pull off the masking-tape the morning after painting ?

Jared,

Your 81 Pepsi is really coming along nicely. Great job!

Very very Nice !

Put the vinyl decals on the machine this evening.  I went to a local sign shop and asked them how to install the decals.  They showed me how to do it and gave me some scrap vinyl to practice with and a few plastic squeegee's.

1.) Clean Surface
2.) Mix 3-4 drops of dishsoap in spray bottle with 1 quart of water
3.) Spay Surface that decal is being applied too.
4.) Remove backing from decals ( SAVE)
5.) Spray sticky side of decal.
6.) Apply decal in place and slide where you want.
7.) Take backing and put over the top of the decal and squeegee from the center top to bottom, and side to side always work your way from the center.

I used the hinge line as a marker and slid them in place until it looked the way I wanted.  I than measured from the bottom of the machine to the bottom of the decal and marked the other side where the bottom of the decal would go.  I'm sure they aren't perfect but I think it will do just fine.

This solution works great for sliding the vinyls in place.

http://www.rapidtac.com/rapidtac.html

Look's Great!!

Very good instructions on applying a decal.

How long did it take before the decal actually started sticking?

A few minutes after applying.  The more you spray the surface , and decal the longer I had.  I could of peeled it off but I didn't want to damage the corners from trying to peel.

Looks great, you're doing a nice job on that machine. Keep it up and one day you'll come home and one of my machines will be in your driveway.  :upside:

My first attempt of applying the water release decal was a major fail.  Found this video on YouTube it was long but picked through some of the highlights.  

I found the trick was putting them in lukewarm water for about 10 seconds and than having them sit for about
5 mins.  Also using a paper towel, and fine tip brush to help move and get them in the proper place.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pr5R9VCNVHU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Jared

looks great so far

Eraser end of a pencil works well to move them around.
Creighton

Looks great!  I like the Pepsi Blue for a change

Made some great progress over the weekend.  I left the inside component original, including the shelves. Repainted the compressor, all new wiring, motors, fan blades, and t-stat. 

I have a few more things to polish up and touch up. I would have to admit having aand person to help with compressor made super easy!

Looking Great  !!!!!!

ive seen that machine before was located 20 hours to the south--

jarred you did a great job-- glad it went to a good home

Looking Good, Jared!  :happydrinkers:

 :drinking: Tim :drinking:

Coin Mechanism refirbushed and cleaned up!

Bezel Replated

looks great

Received the final piece in this weekend!  Thanks to (cokecolaman) Ron for having the bezel chromed and insured for $900    :laugh:

I'm happy with how the machine turned out.  Thanks to many great members for chiming in with questions I had.  Learned a lot of new stuff!!

Again this was only a refurbish, I did NOT fully restored this machine.  I simply cleaned up what I already had, and completed this on a budget.  

More. . .

Last. . .

Awesome ! ! !

Top notch!

Tim

Looks great Jared.

Very nice!  So is this a keeper?

Yes.  It would take a a grip of money to let it go!

Really great looking machine! Hope to have one someday.

Very nice job.  Looks great.

Great Job, That's one Sweet looking machine!

Fantastic job on that Pepsi machine.  Thanks for detailing the steps you took.

Great looking machine! Nice job! If you need an alternate home for it, I know it would look nice in my rec room!!!  :biggrin:

Did I understand correctly that you didn't remove the inner tub/liner and reinsulate? Just trying to understand how much folks are doing with a partial vs complete restore.

Did you remove the cooling system to work on it or did you leave it in place? What did you use to clean it? Did you sand it too? Thanks!

B.

Looks great!!!

Brenda,

I did NOT pull the liner or re-insulate the cabinet.  I felt like the cabinet and liner and the underneath section were clean enought NOT to mess with since I decided from the very beggining I wasn't doing a full restoration that it wasn't neccessary.  Some people may of pulled the liner, etc. but I did not.  I figured some day when I had more time, and more money I would be doing a full restoration anyway.  In the past I have been quick to tear down manchines all the way to the ground.  I find it's  easy overwhelming, cost more money, and take a lot more time.  The machine is for me, so I could really care less what someone else thinks.

Compressor:

I built a stand out of scrap OSB, and 2x4's measured the same height as the cabinet where the evapator sits on in the machine.  As many have posted that is the best way to work on the compressors, out of the machine.  I replaced both fan motors, blades, t-stat, and all the wiring.

As far as prepartation I removed the lower base plate ( never again) and wet sanded the entire compressor with 320 grit wet sand paper.   I taped off the areas, and used painters roll for the different colors.  I used just regular Rustoleum paint from the Home Depot.  The copper tubing I just used steel wool to knock the spray paint off to get the coppers shine back.

I think my whole reason for posting was to show how easy it is to clean up a machine with out doing a full restoration.  Full restorations soak up a lot of money and time.  I can understand the memebers on here that are doing in for  a business, but for me just a weekend warrior I just don't simply have the time, money, or customers for that.


Jared

[quote author=Slapshot42 link=topic=17327.msg147745#msg147745 date=1386112636

 .......reason for posting was to show how easy it is to clean up a machine with out doing a full restoration. 

[/quote]

         And this becomes extremely important when refinishing a square corner machine.