SMC Discussion Areas

Hi everyone,


Im new to these forums and soda machine restorations in general.  Im sure I will be here countless times over the course of the project and appreciate everyones patience in asking my questions as we move along.  I have a Vendo 44 that I will be restoring and have a few questions to start out with :)

First, does anyone happen to know if lead paint was used on these machines when they were produced?  Also, I've never seen asbestos before so I wouldnt know if I saw it but is the insulation inside the machine safe to tear out using a mask and gloves??  Sorry I know, its just a little paranoia :P

Second. have there been any good books written or manuals produced that summarize the resto process and the various products used when doing one of these projects?  I did see a manual on Ebay for the vendo and wondered if it was any good or if it was more or less an owners manual with a couple pages of tips added by someone else?

Lastly, the machine I purchased appears to be complete to the best of my knowledge.  It also runs and cools just fine but it did come with one loose part that was just sitting down inside the bottle rack.  I had a look around but Im not sure what its function is or where it goes??  Im sure someone will recognize the part from the pic I've posted.

Thanks for reading!

       Welcome Jeff. That piece hangs directly above the wire bottle chute, separating the left and right chutes.

      Yes, the old insulation is a little nasty to be breathing in, but your mask and gloves will work well until you can dispose if it.

      The manuals online are usually useless in a teardown situation like this.
Your best resources will be right here on this site.

      These old machines are quite simple. You can remove the bottle stack, compressor and coin mech in your first hour. After that, lift the main door up off the hinges and proceed to recondition each section of your machine one piece at a time.
      If you have a problem ...you know where to find us. 

                                          Go for it!   :happydrinkers:

Welcome Jeff ! Just so you know we love pictures, some of us have to feed our addictions vicariously threw others projects and collections. Like Moondawg said there is a wealth of knowledge on this board. There is not much these guys have not seen or owned at one point or another.

Bryan

The paint does have lead in it but I decided a long time ago no matter what you are sanding wear a respirator any dust is bad for you they just have not told you yet.

Regarding insulation removal, I use a spray bottle with water in it to mist/dampen the insulation before I go tearing the stuff out of the machine plus a dust mask, it is after all fiber-glass and the "dust" is in fact microscopic shards of glass. Also, some of the earlier versions of the mat/fiber type insulation boards used in the bottom of some chest machines may contain some asbestos. so always wear a mask when sanding paint, galvanized metal, working with insulation, etc. 

Great info guys, the responses are much appreciated and will be put to great use.  I should be starting the tear down in a couple of weeks so I will post lots of pics here in the forums.  I'm really excited to get going on the project and look forward to a finished product.  I havent even started yet and I can see that this could become a bit of an addiction for me  :tounge:

While Im here, one question that comes to mind is what sort of cleaning product or process are others using to clean the metal of the bottle rack.  I have been reading in the forums and see that a lot of people seem to use powder coating or Hammertone paint to refinsh the rack but I was wondering if just a good cleaning would suffice?  Is it a cosmetic thing, or is it more about protecting the metal from future degradation and wear?

Thanks.

Welcome to SMC!

>>"clean the metal of the bottle rack."

Depends on the end result you want and how bad it is start with.
The rack is steel that has been galvanized.
I'd start with hot water and sponge. CLR with an abrasive pad will clean further.
Gloves/mask good idea.

If the original coating has rust through to the steel prep and powdercoat or paint.

Some pics of what you are dealing with will help.

Creighton


 

Since I have a question related to a Vendo 44, thought I could add it to this fresh thread.

I'm getting ready to put on the new "Insert Coins/Sold Out" decal I bought from Funtronics. There is a "No Quarters" line in the middle of the label. I understand mechanically how the flag pivots from "Insert Coins to Sold Out" when last bottle is dispensed.

But what positions the flag to "No Quarters" instead of "Insert Coins"?

I'm no expert on mechanical mechs, but would this is the flag-label for a change-giving coinmech? (which would have the middle position for the flag & armature that moves the lever through it's positions?) it would indicate that the coinmech was out of nickels to give back as change for a quarter.  or it could be a reminder that the mech only accepts nickels & dimes. I'm thinking the later.

      From the pictures you have released, that 44 looks a little bit too nice to need restoring.

Good eye MoonDawg. I got lucky finding a nice original. Just needed a few decals. Rubber should be replaced at some point but I'm in no hurry.

Hi guys,

Ive finally gotten around to the vendo 44 again and had a few questions, newbie in nature once again.  My first question is related to the bottle stack which I have removed from the unit and now have it laying on the floor of my garage.  It seems that I cannot roatate the mechanism that is inside of the bottle stack.  It will wiggle a bit but seems to be locked up or something.  Looking inside at the mechanism I thought the whole thing looked a little too narley to start pulling apart before getting some advice on it.  I should remind you once again that I am new at this so excuse me for missing the obvious. 

Another question I have is related to compressor removal.  Is it possible to remove the whole cooling unit as a whole with the evaporator all attached.  Im guessing it will need some sort of stand to support the evaporator while it is out?

My third question is that when removing the door, I noticed a cord coming out of the bottom of it.  Is it better to remove the cord inside the door or wherever it goes down to the compressor etc??

Im sure some of these answers will be obvious if I were to really get down and dirty with the machine but at the moment my time is minimal in the garage so when I am able to sneak out there for 15 minutes un-noticed I'd like to make the most of it.

Johnnie is correct that it is for a change-giver mech - the bent armature that extends out of the top right of change-givers is what moves the flag to the "No Quarters" position. The decal should work fine with the SD/LD mech that you have because the Sold Out Flapper will move the flag from "Empty" to "Sold Out" bypassing the "No Quarters" position.

You are missing a piece on the mech that actuates the knockout arm - the KO arm prevents the mech from accepting coins when the machine is empty.

1. Download the manual from the main page and it will give you some valuable information - operation, schematics, diagrams, adjustments. The stack is not too difficult. It all comes apart from the rear pretty much.

2. Yes - a stand (on wheels) is quite helpful.

3. Just cut it. You won't be reinstalling the line. It goes to the coin mech heater, which you won't need.

       The mechanism you are trying to turn in the stack, not only rotates left and right but a spring lets it move in and out. This is usually where it sticks.

Hi Guys,

Got the bottle stack mechanism turning so everything is fine now.  Seems it was just a little seized from not being turned over for 20 plus years.

Just wondering about the cleaning of the bottle stack again.  It is in pretty good condition with no rust but there is an accumulation of calcium/lime which I was thinking of removing with CLR as suggested but I did read somewhere not to use CLR on galvanized metal as it is acidic.  Any thoughts on whether it is or isnt the right product to use given that the metal is galvanized and I would like not to remove the coating.  I dont know if just spraying it and rinsing is enough to hurt the galvanized coating or if it would require some heavy duty scrubbing to remove it.

Also, the machine is pretty dusty and dirty, especially the compressor area.  Is it safe to hit the whole thing with a garden hose to flush out the dust and dirt and then let it sit a few days before plugging it back in or would this be detrimental to the electrical connections down below?

Lastly, it was mentioned to just cut the cord that goes to the coin mech heater when removing the door.  Is it pretty standard to just rip the whole thing out and trash it or is it worth saving? 

Thanks.

I'd remove all of the electrical components, then blast away with the hose and a bucket of soapy water with sponge. You are probably going to want to replace the fans and T-stat anyway. Clean the terminal posts on the compressor and rewire. My six cents...

Hi guys,

I've pulled the refrigeration unit and onto a little stand that I made as seen in the photos below. The unit was running and cooling nicely when it was in the machine so I don't think I have any repairs or trouble shooting to take care of, rather I'd just like to clean the unit it and repaint some of the components.  I have a lot of questions related to doing all this so I may as well get em all out in one post.  So here it goes!

1. I would like to just blast the unit with my power washer but before doing so what components do I remove or should I be covering up the electrical connections with something so they don't get wet?  Can I just spray it as is and then dry up the connections with compressed air?

2. To repaint the various pieces such as the compressor, will I have to remove the copper lines from the unit and thus opening up the system to which I will have to later recharge it with refrigeration gas (I apologize, I don't know much about refrigeration and gases so it kinda scares me!)

3. I'd like to replace the wiring for piece of mind although it looks pretty good, can I buy this kind of wire at the big box home improvement or automotive stores or is it better to order the wiring kit I saw on Funtronics??

4. What components should I replace while I have the cooling unit out of the actual machine even though everything is still running?

5. I'm thinking the fan unit thingy (yes, I said thingy) that sits on top and on the inside of the machine seems like it will be a big pain to work around while I'm trying to unbolt/remove things from the lower unit.  Do people normally disconnect it somehow and set it aside to make life easier or is this opening another can of refrigeration worms that I again don't know much about.

That's all my questions for now, I've been saving those up for a couple of months now Smiley  Also, if anyone has any helpful links to refreshing the refrigeration system as I want to do, they would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

       No! Copper lines do NOT need to come off! 
       Baseplate and fanmotor bracket can be removed from the deck, then the compressor and condenser can be painted in place.
( Hint: Looks killer when you use sandpaper and steel wool to make the copper tubing shiny again)

I rewired a 44 with wire from the big box stores, there aren't too many wires in there, just make sure you buy an outdoor rated wire.  If you're going to pressure wash, you shouldn't have a problem with the wiring if you're going to replace it.  Compressed air will work fine, just give it time to dry before you fire it up again. 

I would scuff up the compressor with scotchbrite and put on a coat of black semi-gloss paint.

Replace the fan motors and check the condition of the fan blades, those are repop'd as well.  The thermostat should be replaced too, to prevent having to replace it in the future.

Glen is right on the copper lines, I polish copper starting with a green scotch brite, followed by 00 and then 0000 steel wool.  You can get just about a mirror shine on it with that combo.  It's a little bit tedious to get in all the spots, but worth it after.

Hey Moondawg, I'm a little bit confused what to do. What do you mean by removing the baseplate from the deck??  Im probably just not familiar with the terminology :( 

I would like to paint the compressor, fan motor bracket and the actual metal plate that these items are bolted to.  Do you guys usually spray the baseplate black as well?

Also, do I need any kind of paint that can withstand high heat or would a standard tremclad spray paint do?

Lastly, all the screw heads on the machine are a very odd looking shape.  It looks like a square Robertson head except its more rectangular than square.  I've tried using a standard square head screw driver with SOME success.  I wasn't sure if these screw heads were something more regional specific but I guess I am wondering what everyone else does to get these little oddballs out?

Thanks again everyone..

See pic. The base was originally a pastel pink color.

No - a semi-gloss black enamel will work.


These are called clutch head screws and you can get a driver bit at Ace Hardware.

       You built a nice little stand for this. Unbolt the components from the baseplate and slide it out from under them. Some bolts are underneath.

Speaking as a fellow newbie, I have to say that redoing the compressor deck can actually be one of hte most rewarding aspects of working on a machine.  I don't have the equipment or the skill to do a lot of the bodywork or exterior paint work and obviously any chrome or zinc plating has to be outsourced.  But cleaning up the compressor, assuming it is mechanically functional, can be done by almost anyone if they will put in a little time.  I highly recommend cleaning up the copper tubing, it will shine like new.  Tape it off and  paint the compressor and condenser.  Replace the condenser/evap fans and rewire.  Then, when you show off your machine, you can proudly point to the cooling deck and say you revamped that on your own.  Just take your time and pay attention to the small capillary tube when you are working with the copper.  Below is my first attempt on cleaning up a deck.  The condition of mine in the first pic looks a lot like yours.  The final result ain't perfect, and certainly doesn't compare to anything to big guys on here do, but I felt pretty good about it and I would bet you will too.  And no making fun of the makeshift drying deck.

Just a few quick questions regarding my vendo 44 restoration.  Its been a while since Ive been here but the project seems to be gaining some momentum again so hopefully I'll be here more often!

1. I've polished the copper lines as Im cleaning up and repainting the cooling system.  Is there any way to keep them looking this shiny or will they just have to be repolished every once in a while?

2. When replacing the fan motors I noticed there is a rubber anti vibration piece that goes on but there is also a metal shim looking part that also was included with the new fan motors.  I didnt see the shim piece on the original motors that I took out so I was wondering if this is to be used or discarded.  If it is to be used, in what order does it go for remounting everything?

3.  What gauge of wire should be used for the wiring that connects from the wiring box to the compressor?

Thanks to everyone for their help.

Pictures coming soon :)

I haven't removed my stack but my mechanism seems seized as well. Right now it appears to be just to the left of straight up vertical and will only turn to the right as far as vertical...any tips on how you get it turned?
Like you I'm a bit of a newbie and don't want to break the thing...the bottle rocks don't appear to be moving much at all

I think I just ended up spraying mine down with a spray lubricant and then just kept trying to manually move any moving part to loosen up whatever was stuck.  It almost seemed like an accident that everything started moving again as I dont remember exactly what it was that I did to get it going again.  If I recall correctly, I think it was that the thing that is rotated by the action of the crank handle that wasnt springing back so while I was trying to move it forward it was actually already in that position and just wanted to spring back into position.  Im sure nothing is jammed though so its probably just a question of working those moving parts as I said.  The whole mechanism was a little peculiar to me at first as I had no idea which way or how anything moved.

i read it also goes in and out..so just reached in and pulled it...didnt feel like it moved...but all of a sudden it turns smooth like butter...
Now I just wish I had the space to take out the compressor and things at the bottom and repaint and polish it up...