SMC Discussion Areas

I would like to know what the best way to restore the interior galvanized parts of a Glasco Slider. Some say to just paint over it with a cold galvanized paint, others say to powder coat it. I prefer not to cover up the rust with paint, but bring it down to bare metal, then coat it.
Do folks replace with fresh galvanized panels? Cost???
Thanks

      The inner liner of a slider is not easy to remove and it's even harder to re-install.
Treat the rust as best you can then coat it in place.

taking the tank out is a big deal ,  the compressor is hooked right into the tank  the line are either soldered to the tank or they have a pitch tar
on them  to hold them into place . and it is a two person job to re-install  the tank if it has a fresh paint job , and you will need to do the cardboard trick.

 myself I do the powder coating, last longer and looks better .

Should I remove the copper tubing from the tank prior to having it powder coated? If the tubing was left on, wouldn't the powder coating affect the cooling capability?
(The interior of the machine has already been removed. The shell is painted and ready for re-assembly)
One other thing, should non-faced insulation be used or could you use a foil covered insulation, such as hot water heater insulation wraps?

Remember folks, anything that you will have powder-coated will be put into an over at about 400 degrees-F , so pitch/tar will melt & catch fire, & soft solder will melt.  brazing such as on a condenser coil will hold up fine because it takes over 900 degrees-F  to even start to soften it.

The bottom line is the coils will have to come off & the outer tank will have to be cleaned of any and all pitch/tar/oil & soft solder (plumbing solder) Talk to your powder coater to be sure.

I have always powdercoated mine

If you take it in and your powdercoater doesnt remove the tar before going into the oven. I would seriously question his work and would find someone else to do it.

Joey

and if they didn't charge you extra labor for removing it, I'd be amazed!

OK, I found a Powder Coating Service. However, they claim that the soldered connections cannot be reattached after powder coated.  :help:
I am referring to the liner with the coil attached and tube for the t-stat. How do you guys reattach to the coating?

Thanks

I've done a few different things but the one that worked best was to not solder them back on , just use an automotive sealant or some Automotive putty... I ' am not sure what what it was called but it was used to attached trim on cars or something like that.. it was puty that stiffened up and held the line in place for reinstallation.

       In the automotive sunroof industry we used to use "Butyl". It's a black tar that sticks 2 surfaces together pretty well.

I found DAP Butyl-Flex Gutter and Flashing Sealant in cartridges. Sounds like what you are describing. Heavy duty sealant that bonds everything and will handle cold temps.
Secondly, the insulation was removed so long ago, I forget if it was faced or un-faced. What do you recommend? I have a new roll of foil blanket insulation, but fear this may cause condensation between it and the sheet metal.