SMC Discussion Areas

I picked this up a while back an I'm about to start digging into it.  I had a few questions before I started.  First, it looks like some sort of rectangular sign was once below the 7up logo.  If you look at the pictures below you can see four holes where the sign was riveted into the panel.  I assume that was probably not stock and someone stuck a sign below it?  I can't imagine what it could have been.  Seems about the size of those old DP rectangular signs.  Secondly, on the 7up logo there's small writing referencing the US patent office in black that says "REG. U.S. PAT. OFF".  I assume you all leave this off when restoring or do you all get a decal made to replicate this text?  Thanks.



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Looks to be the size of a Dr. Pepper sign.

Or RC cola. The sign was added after it left the factory.
The Pat Registration  message can be left off, or a decal used if you're a purist. most people wouldn't ever notice it missing , and  most restores  ignore it.
 

Could use a reverse vinyl masking and put the trade mark back if you wanted. You could also paint “You Like” “It Likes You”
with some deco green lines to dress up the cooler on either side of the embossing... Breaks up the white.

Thank you everyone.  Just want to make sure I wasn't missing anything.

Anyone have ideas on a replacement lid gasket?  Seems as though only the 55 gasket is reproduced.  I know the 85s aren't as popular since they are larger, but for those that have restored them, what do you use for a new gasket?  Do you piece together two 55 gaskets?


Also, I took the lid apart and under the top lid there is particle board and then insulation on the inside lid.  Having particle board under lid seems a strange chose (as it holds water).  What do others use under the lid when restoring?  Plywood?  Would spraying it with bedliner help?

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The Funtronics lid gasket for the 85 is not a direct replacement, but it is the only one I could find when I redid mine last year.  It works really well though, and sits on the body, not the lid like the original.  It comes as one big piece that you have to cut in the corners.  When I put it in, I used some black silicone to mate the pieces together.  As far as the particle board in the lid, I used plywood in mine.  Worked well, but not as easy to put in the lid as the particle board.  Owens Corning makes a small roll of 1.5 inch insulation that works really good as a replacement for the lid insulation.

Here is a pic of the gasket installed.

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Thanks Grey Wolf. I actually didn't have a gasket there. I'll have to add one. I'll look for it at Funtronics. I was talking about the gasket that goes on the lid itself.

That is the replacement lid gasket.  The new gasket goes on the body instead of the lid.

Great! So I will just need this gasket? I emailed Funtronics last week and they didn't mention this gasket you used. They just said they didn't have one. Is it on their website?

This decal is available and I would re-install after the lettering/logo has been repainted but before the last layer of clear coat paint.
As far as the gasket, check with SodaJerkWorks.Com (http://sodajerkworks.com/), they may have it...

Yeah, I was mistaken......it's from Sodajerkworks.com.  $3.50/foot

Thanks Jim.  Is this decal at Soda Jerk Works?



Is the what you used?  It's hard to see if it's the same as your gasket.  It seems as though yours is an L-shaped gasket.  Did you glue yours down like this particular gasket indicates?

I got mine from Sodajerkworks.com.  It has an adhesive on the bottom of the gasket to adhere it to the body.  In the corners, I cut the joints at a 45 degree angle and used black silicone to mate the 4 pieces together.  Make sure you don't cut the pieces too short or you will get a gap at the joints.  I actually cut them a little long as there is a little extra space outside of the gasket to compensate for the length.

It looks like I forgot the post the link previously.  I'll paste it below.  I was a little confused because it says to glue this gasket to the lid.

http://sodajerkworks.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_images.tpl&product_id=253&category_id=2&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=27&vmcchk=1&Itemid=27

I've made some progress taking this apart.  Lid, lid hinges, side door, coin mech, rack, and compressor are out.  All I have left is the liner/tub and body panels.  This has been a much bigger chore than I anticipated.  It was quite a bit of work to take out the two screws that held the rack in place by the side door.  I guess over time the screws rust inside the metal threaded grommets that are attached to the liner.  I ended up getting a hacksaw blade and slipping it between the rack and liner and breaking the screws in half.  Unfortunately, the other panels inside the tub are mostly connected with these same screws and metal grommets.  The screws are too close to the panels to drill out.  It looks like I need to remove these two panels before I can take the entire tub out.  Any pointers on getting these screws out?  Also, what do you all do in place of these metal grommets (I tore the two up that I sawed through)?  Do you replace them with similar pieces?


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Well, I was able to get the tub off after grinding the screw heads off.  Unfortunately, my worst fears were confirmed.  The panels and base are too rusted to salvage.  I'm going to cut my losses and look for another slider to fix up that's not as rusted or one in decent shape that's not overpriced.  Thanks for all the help.


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That's a bummer Tito...

Smart move to cut your losses and move onto a more presentable slider. 

Let me know you preference type (Ideal or Glasco), branded or generic, etc. and I'll help you find one.

Thanks Bob. I'll let you know what I'm looking for.