SMC Discussion Areas

Trouble-Shooting => Refrigeration => Topic started by: markc on June 26, 2012, 10:10:00 am



Title: Compressor Current Relay
Post by: markc on June 26, 2012, 10:10:00 am
Hello all.  First I would like to say thanks to this site and its contributors.  Almost everything I needed to know was contained somewhere in the forum posts.

I have one question though,  On my compressor the original current relay was ruined (Attaching picture)
I searched the internet with the numbers on the relay '9660-040-991'  and found a replacement part from GE.
I am also attaching the information sheet that came with the replacement part.

The question I have is, on the information sheet it reads "For non-compacitor start application use relay as is, For capacitor start applications only, BLUE LEAD MUST BE CUT"

Which is it? Should I cut the Blue wire or Not? 

if it helps, here is my compressor information: Model: V24TD   14oz,  1/4   3.5amp


Title: Re: Compressor Current Relay
Post by: globalcompressors on June 26, 2012, 03:19:42 pm
your relay in non-cap start....so use the new one, as is.


Title: Re: Compressor Current Relay
Post by: markc on June 26, 2012, 06:19:36 pm
 Thanks,  I have hooked up, all seems to be working.   


Title: Re: Compressor Current Relay
Post by: crxman on July 28, 2012, 01:17:51 am
what would cause this, i had the same problem with my machine


Title: Re: Compressor Current Relay
Post by: markc on July 28, 2012, 11:04:01 am
my wires were old and cracking,  I assume they crossed/shorted out and caused the problem.


Title: Re: Compressor Current Relay
Post by: MrMark on July 31, 2012, 04:41:47 pm
Generally caused by a poor crimp where the wire goes into the plastic shell of the relay. While all crimps have some resistance, a bad crimp has more than usual, which results in heat in the crimp. It heats up a little when the compressor starts/runs, then cools off in the off cycle, where it's resistance got a little higher than it was. Next start/run, same thing all over again, only slightly worse. Over time, the connector looses it's spring tension and the resistance at the connection to the compressor terminal begins to fail, and get hotter.

It can happen quickly, or over a period of years. I have seen this in electric furnaces over and over again. I used to always solder high current connectors on furnaces where I could, which eliminates the problem. Same thing can happen in your home breaker panel, which is why it is recommended to have your panel checked on occasion for loose connections. Even the ones that are screw tight.