SMC Discussion Areas

So I am restoring three machines right now and they are all my first. Everything is going well, but I have some questions about full restorations. I am trying to do these right the first time, so I can resell. Though I want to do these as close to their original manufactured state without hurting the resell value, I am trying to save a little money in the process. If they were for me I would not care. I appreciate everyones input in advance. I will be taking all advice seriously and can't wait to hear what you have to say about one, or all of these topics.

1. I have all of the trim, bezels, face plates, etc ready to be sent out and chrome plated. However, I have found reproduction bottle openers and such with chrome a finish for $7.50. Wouldn't buying this piece be cheaper then having the original chrome plated AND should I do this or stick with the original and pay the extra cash to have it re-chromed.

2. Powder Coating VS. Hammertone? I have to do three liners, and tons of other parts. I was thinking hammertone because it is cheaper, and I personally like the way it looks. Like I said though the machines are not for me, I just don't know the pro's and con's. Or are there any better options?

3. I am doing a V-23 and a C-51. When I got both of these they were all red. At one point the C-51 was white on top and red below, and I know some V-23's have a silver top. Should I paint these the same way I found them (all red), OR should I do something a little different but still original, to make them stand out?

4. And Lastly, Decals. Any kits?

I know that's a lot to ask, and I have read over the message board for like 6 hours now. Theres a lot of stuff from 5 years ago and the market, EPA laws, etc, have changed. Just wondering what your input is on one or all of these topics. Thanks a bunch again in advance.

Dave

For re-sale I would definitely buy the new chrome pieces and be done with it. But always save the old pieces.

Hamer tone is the way to go on the interior of the machine. It looks great and cost much less.

I would paint the C-51 all red just because I think this particular machine looks better in solid red than in white and red.

I would paint the 23 red and paint the top silver. It looks much sharper in this paint scheme.

The only real recommendation I would make is to pay attention to the details and not take any short cuts in prepping the machine for paint. I also recommend replacing all the screws with stainless steel screws.

Good luck.

      Ok, here is my opinion.
       I would also get the re-poped bezels and reduce the chrome plating costs.
       Powdercoating's main advantage is being chip resistant and liners don't get banged up too much, so I agree, go ahead and hammetone them.
       But the red and white paint scheme is nearly always favored by the general public so I'm pretty sure that would help sell the 51. The 23 only had the silver top on the deluxe embossed version, so I suggest you should stick to the all red. This is only my opinion though.
       You will find all the decal kits you need from Funtronics, a sponsor on this site. They provide excellent products and service.
       Lastly, the machines you are restoring are not the highest on the list of desireability for buyers, so be very conscious about keeping your costs under control. You will surely get discouraged if you don't make a profit and we don't want to lose you as a member here.

Thanks for the quick responses Glen and RC Kid.

I will definitely buy the replacement parts then, I just wasn't sure if that was a big no-no.

Also, I guess I will be hammertoning the liners. When I do the liners on the 51 I also have the sprocket, ammo belt, etc. What should I do with the moving parts. They are in okay condition, but dirty and need something. I put a few pictures of the 51 before I took it apart, which is down below.

RC Kid. I like the all red on the 51 better too, but I think customers would like the red and white more. With the paint scheme on the 51 I have seen it in red and white, WITH and WITHOUT chrome trim and kick plate. Anyone know the correct RED and WHITE scheme (chrome or no chrome)?

Glen the V-23 is not a deluxe. I know it is not historically correct, BUT.... I just think it would sell quicker in silver. I guess I will ask you this way. Would you buy a V-23 (standard) with a silver top? Your answer will probably be my decision!

I know that these machines are not the most desirable,  but I got them for next to nothing. I already sold a third one once it is complete. That machine is funding the other two, and I figured doing all three at once will save some cash. Also they were all 99% complete and working. I am trying my hardest to keep my cost low, which I am asking you guys! If you have any other tips or tricks for resto or keeping costs low shoot them my way!

HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Dave

P.s. GLEN I am not going anywhere!  8)

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I would hamertone the rollers and sprockets as well. Be careful with the smaller parts. I have had issues with some small parts when the paint is applied to liberally. Powder coating also adds material to parts that sometimes are made with specific tolerances in mind.

Yeah, I have to agree with everyone, most people (not me) prefer the white over red paint scheme. I am one of the few.

I like both the C-51 and the V-23 Coke machines. But as others well agree, they aren't the most sought after Soda Machines. The V-23 has little appeal as it isn't embossed. But I would still love to have one. Doing them all at the same time should save you on paint cost as there will be less waste.

I have set up shelves for particular machines in order to prevent the parts from getting mixed up. I place the machine in opposite corners of the garage floor and put the metal shelves next to them. As parts arrive (or return) I stack them on the shelves next to the machine they are intended to be used on.  It allows me to spread the parts out but not all over the garage. It works for me.



 

Do I have to disassemble the ammo belt or just paint it how it sits? Same with the sprokets?

       That ammo belt looks like a nightmare to disassemble, 2 pins in each carrier would be over 100 to remove. Spraying inside each may also be a hassle. But since they are aluminum (I believe), maybe sandblast the whole belt and if they look ok use them that way.
      You will find that when 2 toning, the biggest challenges are getting a nice straight dividing line, and doing it without a high buildup of that second color. You should be able to color sand the line and get a smooth transition of colors, but if you don't like the result, it's easy to cover up with the chrome dividing strip.
     As for the 23, silver never was one of Coca Cola's signature colors and I'm not sure why they even chose that over white for the deluxe . That being said........I hope others here will voice their opinion on this one.

Glen - I think there are only 51 pins too. I think it is all steel as well - I remember the belt being pretty darn heavy.
I'd take it apart and include all halves with any zinc plating or powdercoating jobs you have going.

Pull the ammo belt out and hang/suspend it. Ensure the belt is spread out, you should be able to attack the painting from both sides which will allow ample coverage on the inside of the tubes.

I know that the V-23 the model I have was painted on JUN 16, 1949. The date was stamped all over the inside.
That was 7 years before Coke went to red and white. Coke went to red and white in 1956. All the C-51's were produced 1952-1955. So originally the C-51's were all red. In 1956 when coke went from all red, to all red and white, they bought back a bunch of C-51's. Then they painted them red and white. Whats even more strange about the one I have, is someone then painted it all red again. So mine has been painted 3 different times, and the last person who painted it was a hack... it is purple in some spots...and the embossing looks like a 5 year old did it.
Just a little coke history I have come across. I just haven't been able to find out if the chrome trim and kick plate on the red and white one's are original or just something someone did. I don't want it to look to gaudy.

I will see how easy it is to disassemble and reassemble before I take it apart. If it is easy i will probably do what collecture recommened (by the way collecture that was me who called the other day. I have a few more things to do before I send those mechs out). To hard I will do what RC recommended. I appreciate it guys.
What about the sprockets and other exposed moving parts though? Just paint it on or dissasemble everything and hammertone it?

I think it was the 51G model that sported the chrome trim. You don't see too many original G's. The chrome trim was thin - very similar to the V-44 trim.

This 51 is a Super, not sure if that is the G or not.

I recently restored a c-51. What I decided to do before pulling the ammo belt apart was to try to polish it. I bought some 2" polishing
wheels from Mcmaster Carr. These are kind of like scotch brite. They have a 1/4" stem. I put it in my drill motor, got some aluminum and
stainless steel polishing compound, and got started. I laid the belt out on a table and polished the outside first. Then went and did the inside.
There were black oxidation spots and some pitting. On these areas I had to get more aggressive and use sandpaper to get underneath it.
Then I went back over it with the polishing compound. I must say they now look brand new. It just took some time and elbow grease. I may
eventually clear coat them. The machine is all together  so I am watching for any signs of oxidation starting again before clear coating.Also my ammo belt sprockets used the black plastic bushings to roll on. Mine were froze up/cracked. So I bought some black delrin round stock and machined
some new ones. The whole belt assembly looks and works good as new. Hope this helps.

heres a pic

thanks for the tip. I will be getting to the ammo belt soon. That looks really good. All you used was a polishing wheel? Where yours similar to mine before you started? The pic may be on page one.

Yes, mine did look similar. What you need to do is try polishing some certain spots that you think are the worst. If this does not work, then you
may have to go the the other route. I just try to find ways to do stuff myself to save money, knowing I have the time to do it. You just
have to figure out how much and money you want to spend, or how much time and work you want to spend.  I guess I prefer a lot of work LOL.

Magcag01, I think your pic' is too small to see any real detail   :down:   sounds like your hard work paid off though .. (hint-hint for a bigger picture) :tounge:

Sorry, I'm having problems figuring out how to put pics on here the right way. This is a link to some better pictures of
my machine.

http://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories/30838-cavalier-c-51-restoration

I loaded them up for you, & your link to the pic's works too!   It's Very Very nice machine!

Good job, Thanks very much!

Also, there are 52 "pockets" for bottles, so when machine is loaded with 51 bottles, there is an open pocket at door. The pockets halves are
aluminum, the hinges are steel. Another thing I found out is great for polishing/cleaning is WD-40, using #000 steel wool. This worked great on the machine s/n tag, and the coin mech.