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I just got another Westinghouse Standard tonight! This one is the early model :smile: The tub is pretty rusted inside, I can almost see light through the bottom.  :oh: If I get the reproduction tub can I place it directly inside the existing tub, or will I have to remove the rusted tub completely?

Thanks,

shale

(http://www.halescomputerservice.com/images/101_0003.JPG)

(http://www.halescomputerservice.com/images/101_0004.JPG)

I would remove it completely. Its easy to remove, the support brackets come out easy, plus it looks like you have some rust holes on the side and would be easier to fix with the tub out..

As SS stated, definitely remove the existing liner and replace!
Another point that may be worth noting is to remove the gasket and screws because I have had a liner that was slightly held by one/two of these screws making it a little confusing why the liner would not drop down...
As for the rust through on the cabinet, this will also be best repaired without a liner!

Anytime you can get rid of rust is good.  Sure it makes for a great patina, but doesn't do much for perserving things.  

I would replace the liner, but I have found that I sometimes over restore these gems and then they look like repros as opposed to restored.

I agree I'm redoing a Junior right now, it was used as a parts cleaner at a auto shop for 20 year, but no rust so a repaint is needed, also have a master and the paint is good but there is spots with house paint splattered on it, I'm spending a lot of time rubbing it off without damaging the old paint.

I've been fairly successful removing latex paint splatter with a razorblade..

Thanks Bubba I give that a try.

Either that or mineral spirits should not take off the original finish. try it on an inconspicuous place first but it should be ok. Or Googone has a new product for removing graffiti that kicks a$$ but it may take off the paint. again try in an place you don't see like in the compressor compartment. I ran over a can of blue spray paint in my car and it exploded and the goo gone stuff worked great.

Shale, just a question, how to you plan to fix the rust in the 1st picture that's between the Coca Cola and the ice cold? It looks like it's all the way through.

Hi rayg, I was thinking about using body filler to fill the hole and then sand it down so it's even. I'm planning to sandblast and repaint the cooler so with a fresh coat of paint you probably won't even be able to tell it was repaired. 8)

shale

With a hile like that filler only is not the best idea. It will pop out quickly. You will need to patch in a piece of metal of at the least use fiberglass to fill it then smooth it out with body filler. If you just put bondo in the hole if it ever flexes when being moved or shinks because of temperature change it will pop right out. Thats a pretty big hole. If your going to do it you should do it right.

It shouldn't cost too much to weld it up prior to painting.

Blast it first to see what the true extent of the rust issue is then weld in some patch panels.

Did you get the original lids for it?

No I didn't get the lids unfortunately. Thanks for all the tips I'll will definitely weld it prior to painting.

Lids are another issue. Good originals are hard to find but repops are made. They are not cheap though. Two jr lids work.

I just pick up a Westy Standard that had the lower part cut off, with lids and handles a couple of rust hole were the handles are on in couple of small spot but can be fix the emboss lettering in good shape, and the liner is rust free. I may part it out not sure yet but will keep you in mind if I do. And if your interested.

Clay

SSmoothie, thanks for  the offer. I'm interested in the lids if you do decide to part it out.

shale