SMC Discussion Areas

Does anyone have any tips or suggestions on how to adjust the door on a Vendo 110 / 6 case machine??

I replaced the door seal with a new one, but I still get a visual gap when it is closed....like the door latch isn't "squeezing" it shut enough.

Thanks,
Vendo Guy

Rememer that a V110/6case coolers & V83's all have wooden framing around the doors perimeter, as well as the point that the door hangs on it's hinges onto the chassis ( which also has wooden perimeter framing.) so if the door's screws have become stripped due to rotting wood the door will sag & twist...sometimes the two door latches can compensate & hold the door closed, sometimes it can't. You can try to shim the door hinges like you'd shim a wooden door.

Thanks johnieG,,,,I removed my earlier post so it would not send others in the wrong direction on this post....had a different model in mind...one of those days

An old woodworkers trick sometimes works for tightening up the stripped screw holes. Stick 2-3 toothpicks in the screw hole and break them off, then screw the screw back in. Good Luck!

Another trick is to use wooden matches. They are softer wood than toothpicks and tend to thread better.
Creighton

         The 110 has 2 latches, one at the top and one at the bottom. Are you sure they are both grabbing?

That is how I fixed the cupboard door one day when I accidently broke it while my parents were not home. Funny thing is it is still holding and they never found out.

Speaking as someone who is currently restoring a 110, the whole wood frame thing totally STINKS.  What a pain.  Anyway, if you take off the door liner, there is a slight adjustment you can make to the locking mechanism.  There's a threaded rod in there which you can tighten or loosen, which adjusts the latch hooks.  Also, the manual, which is in the Downloads section on this site, has a procedure to check the lock adjustment.

       I know this is an old thread but I just learned somthing to share.

      I was dreading this restoration of a 6 case vertical because of the sagging main door. As it turns out, the hinges and latches were all fine as were the screws that held the hinges. But the wood below the inner liner was completely rotted out and that's how I discovered how important it was to structural integrity. I removed just the bottom wood and could watch the weight of the door distort the inner frame, as could be imagined just by looking at pic 2 below.
     By removing the door and laying the cabinet on it's back, the frame assumed it's normal position. Then by bolting in a 30"piece of 1" angle, steel took the place of the wooden framework. I can't get over how easy the door swings and now lines up like new. It will even open and close using 1 hand on the latch. This $4.00 improvment could be made to any 110 without even taking the breaker strip or wood out.  
 :happydrinkers:
     This is a preliminary finding. I still need to add more screws through the front of the angle (or weld it). It also slightly blocks the drain and compressor lines but since they are both copper, they should bend just fine.
      Hope this helps some more of those 110 doors out there.

When I get into my 110, I am going to look at using Trex or some other synthetic material.  That would eliminate any moisture issues with the wood.

 :drinking: Tim :drinking:

Very weird that you responded to this old post.  I was just reading it this morning after searching for a way to adjust my 6-case door to close tighter.  My hinge screws all tighten, no door sag, and there is no wood or metal corrosion that I can see.  I was going to remove the door panel to see where this threaded rod is that can be adjusted to alter the latch hooks. 

Anyways, interesting post.  Hopefully i can get mine to close nice and tight.