SMC Discussion Areas

If you cannot sandblast, and a da grinder is out, what are folks thoughts on the best way to strip the outside of a machine to bare metal?  I am using airplane paint stripper right now, it is doing the trick, but not as advertised, any ideas?  Thanks.  M

Surprised aircraft stripper is not doing the job. Maybe a light scuffing on the surface. Picture would help.
Creighton
 

I expected more from it is all. It isn't bubbling like I expected and have to take a razor blade to it after I apply.

Did you hit the paint with 80 grit sandpaper, then try the aircraft stripper? 

are you giving it to to get absorbed into the paint?

I will hit it with the sandpaper first and see what happens, thanks. 

If you coat it very liberally with aircraft stripper then cover the machine with a plastic drop cloth for a few hours or overnight. This keeps it moist for longer without letting it dry out. When you pull the plastic off most of the paint will come with it. What doesn't come with it will easilly fall off with a scraper.

You can sandblast many areas on the machine you just cant sand blast the large flat areas as they will heat up and warp. if you have a blaster it works great for getting all of the old paint out of nooks  and corners as well as off of the embossing. If you cannot sand blast go buy various sizes of wire brushes to help remove the paint in the embossing and in any small hard to reach areas. Harbor Freight has cheap assortments of wire brushes that work great.

I have found that when I need to use a chemical stripper the brand JASCO works really great.

I bought several diff brushes and sandpaper today, plus some more stripper, I will keep at it, it seems to work best after I take the top coat down with an angle grinder with a light stripper attachment, I might try the plastic wrap, never though of that, but it makes sense.  Thanks to all.  M

I have had great results form using a dewalt grinder (but not with the grinding disc) with a wire wheel attachment. No DA orbital or sanding disc as they dig into the metal and cause some pretty dip groves.

I have never had the best luck with paint remover or aircraft stripper on the older paints. Always had to take a wire wheel or sand blast them.

I have also used the paint remover disks that I think are made by 3m. They work great but they do remove a little metal when using them so just be careful around the embossing or any stamped lines as they will flatten out the crisp line on embossing and body lines. I used one on a moniyor top refrigerator and it did not do well with the monitor top part. It had embossed ridges around the edge and it dulled the lines. otherwise on flat metal it works great. Also I like to use a DA with 200 to 320 grit sandpaper and it quickly removes paint from flat areas and gives a nice rough surface for etching primer to stick to

I've done the Chemical stripping & done the media blasting (Soda & or aluminum oxide ) and I would not go back to a chemical
again  media blasting is it for me.$70 and it is done and is still straight no warping at all :smile: and the old paint is gone along with the rust 8)

I agree with Pat. Media blasting is the way to go. Find a reputable, experienced blaster and he should have no problem removing paint and rust without warping especially on the older machine that have thicker gauge metal.

My guy that I have used charged me $60 an hour and did a good job.

I have used chemical stripper before. It works when the condtions are right. But, If given the choice, blasting is my #1 choice!

Here is one more plus for media blasting Chemical residue , I did have that happen once  the shop was not happy it was at the hinge and it lifted the paint by the hinge, the Media blasting is it  A++ for me  :biggrin:.

I have the majority of the paint off, but it is messy, I just got my compressor back from the shop, so let's hope I can finish it with the sand blasting, if not, I will find a place close by.  Thanks t all.  M

I use a mud hog with 36 and then 80 grit . Works great.