SMC Discussion Areas

When the thermostat is set to the coldest setting it cools below 30 degrees, frosting the sides, but does not shut off the compressor.  After adjusting the T-stat, I cannot find a setting where it cools to the desired temperature.  Could it be a bad T-stat?  If I want to have the compressor serviced, is it possible to remove the 2 fittings, then remove the compressor deck, without disturbing the coils behind the liner?  Thanks  M

I would just play with it on each setting, start at the lowest and record the temp at when it shuts off, if it's not shutting, off either the tstat is bad, or the cooling system has a leak and needs recharging.?
as far as removing it, it can't be removed completely without cutting your lines, but you can "SWING" it out for servicing.

Actually you can remove the deck . It should have a fitting where you can remove the lines just be sure to cap the lines and the compressor and you will need to recharge after removing it . It wont bother the lines .

The tube that the t-stat line goes in might have broke loose from the liner inside and thats why its cooling but not shutting down .

        Does the compressor stop when you turn the thermostat to off?

Yes it shuts down when I turn the thermostat to off.  The temps vary in degrees from 61 to 41 degrees unless I crank it all the way down where it cools to freezing without shutting off.  The compressor also gets very hot. 

I would say that the t-stat tube has came separated from the liner . Try to feed the t-stat inside the cabinet and tape it to the inside liner and see if it works then . If so then that means the liner tube soder has broken off .

some do and some don't, I have some that have a disconnect, and I have some that are one solid tube and would have to be cut.

It does sound like the t-stat sensing tube may have broken free from the liner. You can check this if
you look under the bottom of the chest where the copper lines enter the chest. You should be able to
see the end of the tube that the t-stat goes into (about 1/2 in diameter). It may be necessary
to scrape off any putty to be able to see clearly .Try to wiggle the tube to determine if it still firmly attached.
Another way you can check is to remove the vertical breaker strip behind the loading door (on the hinge side).
Undo the 6 screws and slide it forward and out. Reach in at the bottom and you should be able to feel the tube.
A mirror and flashlight will come in handy as well. While you're in there, feel the evaporator coils to make
sure they're still attached to the liner.
If the sensing tube has come off, you can feed the t-stat probe inside the liner (as mentioned earlier) and place it
on an area that you know is getting down to the cut-out temp of the t-stat. I use one of those laser thermometers
to read temps. at specific areas of the liner. Tape(or attach somehow) the probe at that location and give her a try.
 
Sliderchris.

     Hmmm, that sensing tube is a long way from the loading door Chris. Am I missing something?

The compressor needs to be serviced/cleaned, as it has sat dormant for years and the entire assembly is very rusty/dryrotted.  I am currently trying to disconnect it at the compression fittings without much luck, as there is a great deal of rust on the fittings, I sprayed them with penetrating lube, hopefully that will loosen them up enough to remove the assembly.  I removed the insulation from behind the liner, and the coils are still attached, once I get that all cleaned up etc, as well as the deck removed, everything should re-assemble fairly easily I believe. 

M,
Is it a Model 55 slider that you have? I have 3 of them and the sensing tube is in the same location on each one,
namely on the lower left corner (when viewed from behind the machine) right where the cap. tube and suction line
enter the bottom of the chest. If you have a different model (or yours has been modified) you can still trace
the path of the t-stat probe to where it enters the machine and hopefully find it that way.
I had trouble also disconnecting the lines to my compressor. I applied some penetrating oil and
finally was able to remove them. However, I did goober up the lines slightly behind the nuts when I tried to prevent them
from turning while undoing the nuts. (This turned out to be of no consequence because my new compressor had solder
connected lines and not the flare/nut type.)