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Author Topic: Rust  (Read 4381 times)
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Victor
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« on: July 06, 2013, 10:19:21 am »

I need to take a pipe out of a stand and it looks rusted in, what is the best rust penetrating solution to get into the threads or the best way to get it out.  Thanks  Victor
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Blind1968
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« Reply #1 on: July 06, 2013, 10:21:41 am »

PB Blaster is an awesome product I have used for years to penetrate rusty threads.

http://www.pbblaster.com/
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jholmgren
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« Reply #2 on: July 06, 2013, 11:54:15 am »

Agree on the PB, good stuff. 

You might need to resort to the old "smoke wrench",
i.e. a propane torch. The heat will expand the metal and can help break it free.

Jim
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Larry
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« Reply #3 on: July 06, 2013, 12:38:05 pm »

Kroil works well too.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I used it on my Stoner leg levelers.  They were rusted solid.  Worked well.

I used it on my Vendo Ice Cream machine plastic door.  Was not a good idea.  Although the rusted screw broke free, it had a capillary effect on a paper insert and distributed throughout my plastic window and ruined it.  It semi changed the plastics state.  Great on metal, just stay away from plastic parts.
« Last Edit: July 06, 2013, 12:44:34 pm by Larry » Logged

A lot of stuff.
kbareit
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« Reply #4 on: July 06, 2013, 01:56:43 pm »

I used to use PB all the time and Leonard introduced me to Kroil. Outstanding product. What ever you use spray around the pipe where it goes in and take a rubber mallet and tap around the pipe starting at the top and working down while spraying more oil in between tapping. The tapping helps loosen the rust and allows the oil to soak all the way through.
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Creighton
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« Reply #5 on: July 06, 2013, 08:17:09 pm »

Cranking through a bunch of rusty drum parts these days. An overnight soak in diluted CLR seems to get rid of the top layer of rust. Then  use a stout brush to knock off the last of the major rust. Let dry, apply PB or Kroil let that soak. Success getting 70 yr. old fused non/similar metals apart so far.
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HowDueYouDue
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« Reply #6 on: July 06, 2013, 09:10:04 pm »

Break Free and CLP is some really good stuff. Can find at Dicks in the hunting section. Just don't get the break free on rubber.
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« Reply #7 on: July 07, 2013, 11:38:25 am »

I always start with some penetrate and then hammer on all sides of bolt or pipe . Hammering will usually break lose if not I heat it and that works.
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