Question on Compressor/Condenser Operation

[Grey Wolf]

I have an Ideal 85 with a 1/5 HP compressor.  I have the unit apart at the moment, and I plugged in the compressor to check it's operation.  It runs good, coils are clean, and both fans are working and flowing good air.  I was checking the temperature of the air coming off the evaporator/condenser and it seems that the temperature of the air that would be flowing to the box didn't get that cold.  Could that be because the compressor is out of the cooler, or do I need a recharge?  Also, when I turned the thermostat down the compressor did click off so the therm seems to be working, but when I turned the therm off the fans were still running.  Is this normal?  I was getting a little frost buildup within 1-2 minutes after it was running too.  Was this due to the high humidity, or do I have another issue?

Sorry for all the questions, but I am new to these things.  Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[johnieG]

You can't really run an accurate test with the unit out of the box, yes frosting is normal especially in the humid/free air, the evap fan should run 24/7/365.. the compressor's condenser fan should cycle with the compressor ( controlled by the thermostat) if it's light on freon, only the very tip of the evap tubing right at the point were the capillary tube meets the large evaporator suction line (& forms the evaporator coils themselves) will frost, otherwise a normally charge system should see frosting ( in the free air) on about the first , up to the second row of evap' tubing.

again, you cant judge a system on the bench, as you're got too much heat capacity in the surrounding air, try putting the evap' into a large card-board box that approximates the size of the machines interior area, & duct-tape it up with an access panel cut into the side to test the temperature.

[Grey Wolf]

Thanks JohnieG.  It sounds as if it's running normally. Good to know.

[Grey Wolf]

Now i've done it!!!   I was messing with some spliced wires coming off the wiring block, and now the fans won't turn on.  There is a switch mounted on the top lid hinge that had the wires severed, and the leads coming from the block were twisted together as a bypass.  I untwisted them, plugged the compressor back in and now the fans don't run.  I unplugged it, twisted them back together, and still nothing when I plug it in.  Any suggestions?  And what is this switch for?  Doesn't seem to lead to anything.

[cola62]

The switch just under the lid controls the fan inside the box.  It is located at the bottom on the inside.  The switch cuts off the fan when the box is open so you dont lose all of the cold air into the room. When you close the lid back it will come back on.  If the swich is removed the wires can be just connected back together to bypass the switch.  Sounds like that is what was done.  On my Glasco I replaced the switch and the fan.  Very easy to do.

[Grey Wolf]

I tried bypassing the switch (located on the back of the hinge on the 85 slider) by twisting the lead wires together....as it was done previously to my undoing, and nothing.  I plugged the fans in directly to a house plug, and it worked just fine.  Is there possibly a solenoid somewhere that can be burnt up, or is my wiring block fried?  I was planning on replacing the block and harness anyway, but would be nice to know if this is the likely culprit.  Thanks again.

[cola62]

How many wires do you have twisted together at the switch location?  Is it just the two leads that were originally connected to the switch?

[Grey Wolf]

Yes.  The way it was before I undid it.

[cola62]

If it was working fine until you took that apart, that makes me think that something either came loose or shorted out.  Are you sure the wires that you reattached are making good contact and completely covered.  Without seeing it it is hard to say.   The switch just interrupts the power to the fan. Connecting these wires together without the switch just sends constant power to the fan outlet. It is located on the inside of the box by the fan. The fan plugs into this outlet. With the switch bypassed, this outlet should  now be getting constant power. You can unplug the fan and use a circuit tester and see if you are getting power to the outlet.  If not, I would say something is not connected right. On my Glasco GBV-50 you have to remove the bottom storage box just inside of the side loading door to to access the fan.  Its held in by six screws and slides out through the side door.  You should not have to remove the slider rack to get to it. At least with the Glasco that is the case.  Hopefully someone with your model will chime in.  Sorry I couldn't be more help.  If you decide to replace the fan, Funtronics stocks it.  They are not expensive. The housing that holds the fan is held into the box by four screws.  If you take it loose you can pull it out to replace the fan.  I was able to purchase a replacement switch at Home Depot.  It was almost completely identicle to the original and fit perfectly.

[Grey Wolf]

Well, I tested the switch with a multi-meter and it works fine, so I don't know why it was bypassed to begin with.  I hooked it back up, pulled and pushed on the wires going into the block a few times, and voila!  it works now.  It must have been a loose connection in the block.  The switch now interrupts the fan operation as you described.  Do you know if the Fun-Tronics harnesses will have the switch interrupt just like the original?  Thanks for all your help Greg.

[cola62]

I don't think Funtronicsdo carries the switch.  I called around and couldn't come up with one, then made a trip to Home Depot and found it. 

[Grey Wolf]

The switch is actually not the problem.  It works fine once I hooked it back up.  I just wanted to find a harness that has a connection for the switch too.  Unfortunately, when I talked to Funtronics, they said that the harnesses they have don't have that connection, and they don't recommend hooking it up anyway due to it being a fire hazard.  Not really a big deal, I just wanted it working like it did originally.

[Creighton]

Can't understand how a cutoff switch could be considered a fire hazard. Lack of one, yes.
Curious on the logic here.
Creighton

[johnieG]

Can't understand how a cutoff switch could be considered a fire hazard. Lack of one, yes.
Curious on the logic here.
Creighton

I think This is a case of comparing apple & oranges.....( confused application in regards to the wiring harness in question) they ( Funtronics) may have been referring to an upright machines coinmech heater/resister being a burn/fire hazard, as opposed to the compressors over current device being talked about in this topic ( I assume)  the over-current protector is an integral part of the original compressors wiring & not an external device unless you replace the entire start/run relay assembly.