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Author Topic: Rust repair  (Read 11572 times)
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sodaworks
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« Reply #10 on: April 16, 2006, 12:54:55 pm »

I'm with coke_and_stuff, anything thing else is just a short cut. Short cuts will deminish your reputation in the restoration business.
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS
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bubba
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« Reply #11 on: April 16, 2006, 08:10:55 pm »

Yeah, I think its coming apart all the way. Its the only thing I haven't torn apart on the machine, and it would be stupid not to at this point. I'm not worried about a reputation since I'm not selling restorations, but I do like to do things right the first time. I've got the bottom replaced, and the whole compressor compartment is primed, but when the machine was on its side, there was water coming from the inside of the machine. Its very apparent that the insulation is wet, so it definately makes sense to open the whole thing and replace the insulation....
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Ken

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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #12 on: April 19, 2006, 09:27:22 am »

I've done a few machines, and definately want to redo the insulation, especially if wet.

Question however... what insulation do most of you guys use on these machines, what R rating?

Thanks
John
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bubba
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« Reply #13 on: May 05, 2006, 07:36:18 pm »

Well, I finally got back into the machine for a bit.. I removed the tub and insulation.. its a good thing I did.. Now the bottom of the cabinet has been repaired from the other side. I welded a plate across the whole bottom, so none of this will ever show through.  I do plan on removing as much of the rust as possible, then treating the remaining rust spots. On the sides and back, its a bit of surface rust. I guess I'll just sand down as much as I can then treat the whole inside.. That should be good enough, or is this gonna be a problem cabinet??

And to repeat singuys question, what type of insulation do you use on the inside of the cabinet? It can't be overstuffed, or it will decrease the insulation value. When I pulled the old stuff out. it appeared to be about 3 inches thick...




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Ken

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sodaworks
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« Reply #14 on: May 06, 2006, 10:28:23 am »

Bubba,
 I would cut out the bottom pan but leave a couple of inches all the way around to weld another piece back on to it. Sand blast whats left and flip the machine upside down, measure and cut a new peice of metal into place. Using plug welds and stitch welds. This works well for me. Silicone all inner seams and cover with rubberized under coating in the inside of the cabinet. I use the insulation in "roll form". '<img'>
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS
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bubba
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« Reply #15 on: May 06, 2006, 03:14:59 pm »

I was thinking about cutting that piece out. I already have a patch in place from the compressor side, so I am just going to cut as much away of the bad stuff as I can, then remove the last bits of rust. I'll hit it with the neutralizer and I like the undercoat idea.

One more question though... I noticed all the seams were sealed along the bottom, and you mentioned sealing it as well. How did the water get in there to begin with?? Wouldn't you want some open holes at the bottom to let any moisture that may develop between the warmer outside cabinet and the cooler inside cabinet??
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Ken

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Eric
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« Reply #16 on: May 06, 2006, 08:56:25 pm »

Maybe the drain or the tub leaked?
Definantly sand blast the entire inside of that cabinet and get all the rust out.
You'll be glad you did.
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Eric

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sodaworks
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« Reply #17 on: May 07, 2006, 12:14:58 pm »

Quote (Eric @ May 06 2006,6:56)
Definantly sand blast the entire inside of that cabinet and get all the rust out.

Eric's 100% correct!! Make sure to measure where the drain tube was located so that you can relocate it to the proper location. I solder in the new tube and then I JB weld around the bottom side for added protection.
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS
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bubba
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« Reply #18 on: May 08, 2006, 06:28:00 am »

I drilled the new hole for the drain tube before I cut the old piece out, so its in the same place. This one was held in with a grommet and the tube passed through the grommet.  I should not put it back together that way? The tube is a piece of stainless steel 3/8 OD with a flare on one end that sits flush in the grommet.

I cut out as much of the bottom panel as I could reach with my grinder, and tack welded the new one in place. It was already tacked in from the bottom. Its not going anywhere. I then sand blasted the rest of the panel that was left along with the rest of the inside of the cabinet. I've got 2 smaller holes on the side I need to repair. These have been sand blasted. I think I am going to put a patch from the inside, and then body fill the outside to fix. I don't have tig setup at home, and my mig is a bit much to be doing too much welding on the sides of the cabinet. I don't want to do too much warpage.
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Ken

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VMC ST56B Royal Crown - being built
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