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Author Topic: Pepsi 81 / Repaint  (Read 32137 times)
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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #10 on: April 17, 2013, 02:08:30 pm »

Looks nice, however i noticed in some of hte photos you still have the breaker strips and insulation in the machine?  was it not completely taken apart?
the only reason I ask is you may have missed a major area of rust that could eventually eat through your new paint job?  I would at least take the 4 nuts off that hold the tub in and you'll find that the insualation , especially on the bottom , between the tub and the lower pan will be pretty shot.. and most likely will have some serious rust in that area.

Youv'e gone through so much work already making it look good.. I would hate to see it start to rust through in a year or so and go through your paint.

it's only a few more minutes to remove it and overall it will give it better Cooling if you have new fresh insulation in it..

there are several tips I've posted on this site about putting in insulation or of course you can always contact me if you need more info.

It looks so nice, figured a few extra steps might save you some headaches down the road.

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Slapshot42
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« Reply #11 on: April 17, 2013, 03:25:06 pm »

I have debated whether or not to pull the liner. If I was restoring the machine like others I would of pulled the liner.  There was no surface rust in the liner, and the breaker strips were perfectly fine.  I definatley understand the consequences not doing so.  My intent was to make the outside just one solid color.

Depending on my level of motivation I may do so.  My goal was NOT to restore it which just cost more money. I did no bodywork and their is no primer on it.  I painted it in open garage, no paint booth, no fancy paint guns , or fans.  It was $85 to paint it.  

But you make a good point.  One roll of insulation and a new drain tube...

Jared
« Last Edit: April 18, 2013, 10:32:00 pm by Slapshot42 » Logged
Slider-Bob
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« Reply #12 on: April 17, 2013, 03:48:38 pm »

Bob - you know, I could probably pick it up for you and deliver it to Jared.  tounge

I think if I ever decide to change careers I may go into the delivery business. 

Wow Jim...That's quite an offer as Jared lives in Washington State.  If you leave now, you could have it to him this weekend.

LOL
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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #13 on: April 17, 2013, 03:52:51 pm »

I have debated whether or not to pull the liner. If I was restoring the machine like others I would of pulled the liner.  There was no surface rust in the liner, and the breaker strips were perfectly fine.  I definatley understand the consequences not doing so.  My intents was to make the outside looking a bit nicer.

Depending on my level of motivation I may do so.  My goal was NOT to restore it which just cost more money. I did no bodywork and their is no primer on it.  I painted it in open garage, no paint booth, no fancy paint guns , or fans.  It was $85 to paint it. 

But you make a good point.  One roll of insulation and a new drain tube...

Jared

yes I understand it was a budget project and it looks GREAT.. don't get me wrong.. so another few extra minutes of your time to make sure you don't have rust and nice new insulation will also keep your running costs down too... just some thoughts..
Looks great ... did you spray the paint out of a gun or use cans?? really looks nice!
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Slapshot42
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Jared


« Reply #14 on: April 17, 2013, 05:18:01 pm »

yes I understand it was a budget project and it looks GREAT.. don't get me wrong.. so another few extra minutes of your time to make sure you don't have rust and nice new insulation will also keep your running costs down too... just some thoughts..
Looks great ... did you spray the paint out of a gun or use cans?? really looks nice!

I used an older SATA HPLV paint gun.  The paint was a base coat , clear coat.  I just didn't buy the top of the line paint.  

So, I have read the the old drain tub is cut out?  I get that part but how does the new piece fit down the liner with the old piece from above still in place?

It would appear that the new drain tube would be he same diameter as the old one making it difficult to slip the new piece down below to attach the second section.
« Last Edit: April 17, 2013, 05:19:58 pm by Slapshot42 » Logged
MoonDawg
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« Reply #15 on: April 17, 2013, 05:39:57 pm »

         Once you cut the tube and get the liner out the remaining tube will easily break loose, it is only soldered in.
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Glen
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Jared


« Reply #16 on: April 17, 2013, 06:07:39 pm »

         Once you cut the tube and get the liner out the remaining tube will easily break loose, it is only soldered in.

If I pull the liner and the metal below it has surface rust can I just put a new piece of the same size as the false floor above it? Or does the old section ( flooring) get completely removed and a new piece put in it's place?

I can have my local metal shop make me a new piece.  I assume I could just tach weld the corners of the new flooring inside the cabinet walls?

Thanks.

in
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BrianS
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« Reply #17 on: April 17, 2013, 08:50:56 pm »

Best looking $85 paint job I've seen.  What are you going to do with the embossed lettering?
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Brian

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Slapshot42
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Jared


« Reply #18 on: April 17, 2013, 08:59:16 pm »

What are you going to do with the embossed lettering?

I have a local sign painter that hand paints the lettering.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xZDfEJyDhI&feature=youtube_gdata_player
« Last Edit: April 17, 2013, 09:24:29 pm by Slapshot42 » Logged
tkaz
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« Reply #19 on: April 17, 2013, 09:20:13 pm »

If you want to keep it on the cheap, consider giving the pan a coat of POR-15, you can fill some of the larger holes with fiberglass patches embedded right in the POR15. 
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