SMC Discussion Areas

On my VF-165 there is rust under the evaporator around the drain tube area and I was wondering how I could fix this. It is not rusted through but I would really like to stop the rust before it does go through. Any ideas? I am kind of nervous about having to remove the evaporator so if I do not have to do that I would really like it.

If you don't want to remove everything, you should at least make sure that the drain hole and drain line are not plugged.  That will cause water to collect and increase the rust problem.  You could probably clean the area up and maybe use steel wool to get rid of the rust.  Then use a spray can of hammertone Rustoleum to cover the areas that you have cleaned up.  It won't look but it will prevent further rust.

I suspect someone else will chip in with a better idea or two.

 :drinking: Tim :drinking:

I will try the steel wool. Thats fine about it not looking restored. I just want to get it fixed and as long as it works it is fine because this is not a part that people see very much anyway. Should I try to avoid getting paint on the evaporator?

POR-15 is what I would use. It will fill all the little pin holes and last forever.

I would hit it with some of those rust neutralizers after you are done getting off the heavy rust. then spray with hammertone..

I did both in the V44... after removing as much scale as possible, seal with POR15, then coat with a topcoat of Rustoleum...

Chris

What is POR15?

http://www.por15.com/

It is a product for neutralizing and priming Rust, but it is know to cause cancer in the state of California..

Glad I live in Michigan!  :biggrin: :laugh: 8)

 :drinking: Tim :drinking:

HA! Take that leftcoast!  :tounge:

Is this the hammertone paint that you guys are talking about? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4CY57?Pid=search

Yes.

Also where do you get POR-15? I really would like to get it somewhere local because I would think it would have a lot of shipping fees because I think it is concidered a hazardous material (I might be wrong but I just want to check)

I think I googled it once and got to the mfg's site. There is a distributor list if I remember correctly. It can be found at body shop supply places.

Eastwood has some good rust neutralizing and priming products.  You can find them online at www.eastwood.com

I would not want anyone to say, :needphotos: so I attached a nice one!

 :drinking: Tim :drinking:

POR-15 website:
http://www.stoprust.net/

DO NOT GET POR-15 ON YOUR SKIN!!! 

You cannot remove it, it must wear off!   :jawdrop:

And no, I'm not telling why I know this to be true!  :censored:  Apparently, it even says so on the back of the can!

Yes it does!

http://www.por15.com/SUPER-STARTER-KIT/productinfo/SSKB/ I found this on their website and I checked shipping and 7 dollars is no that bad so I am thinking of just buying this kit. Should be enough to cover the bottom of my liner.

That is what I bought and I still have some left and have done a couple of liners with it. You want the silver color.

How much does that kit cover? I just need to do the bottom and not the entire liner right?

Sorry  :blush: - I didn't do the whole liner - just the bottom on both machines. I believe I have enough to do a third. I followed the instructions for sealing it back up with saran wrap between the top and can, then refrigerate. I used some last fall and it had been 4-5 years since first use. If you just put the top on, you'll never get it off - the stuff gets hard as a rock!

awesome! That is exactly what I was going to do. I bet I can find other things that I can use the rest on.

I finally ordered some and it should be here any day now. I do have one more question. How do I keep the POR-15 from covering up the screw holes in the liner? Someone was asking me about that and I did not even think about the screw holes. What do you guys do with those?

Have a small nail handy and just poke it if it closes up. The sheet metal screw will not have an issue anyway.

Thats good. Thanks!

scalebowler,

I would make sure they are just sheet metal screw and not machined tapped ... I have two that are, they   attaches the evaporator  to the pan
Ray

I will be sure to check for that. Just have to wait till morning so I can get to the machine. Got it out in the garage so I can't open the door all the way when the cars are in there. Can still get a pop out of it but not enough room to open the door fully.

You could still re-thread the machine screw hole - I don't think I've ever come across a machine screw attaching the evap. Usually they would weld a nut on the back side of the liner for those.

I think the screws in my machine are sheet metal screws. Sheet metal screws have the sharp point and that star shaped washer thing on them on them right and machine screws look like bolts? Just checking.

Yes, that's correct, you should be good to go. post pics when you are done .

Good Luck!

collecture,  welded  nut on the back side of the liner......that makes sense, since the liner metal is too thin to tap... thanks sharing your knowledge .....I alway hate to learn something the hard way LOL

Ray

Thanks! The stuff just came by ups about an hour ago so I might be trying this out this weekend. I will be sure to post some pictures of it. Get a before and after shot as well.

The easiest way is to build up some JB Weld on the liner. It gets hard enough to drill and tap. It even says it on the box. I have done it before and it works great. If you don't have a welder or just don't want to use it the JB Weld is easy and cheap.