Refrigeration overhaul

Hello,

I'm attempting my first restore project, on a Pepsi Ideal 500A slider.  It has a sealed unit with R12.  I would really like to remove the whole refrigeration unit so that I can give it a proper cleaning.  Is there any way to disonnect the system from the cooler, without having to have it discharged by a tech?

Thanks,

Goach2

[Kevin C]

Hello

It should be possible. Post us a few pictures so we can have a look at it. A good solid clean will help most cooling problems plus replacing the fan motors to make sure of proper airflow across the coils.

Note: the pictures will post if you make them about 200 by 200 pixels in size.

Kevin

[glassbottlesrule]

You cannot  remove the refrigeration on an ideal slider without cracking the system.  The ideals use a convection cooling system instead of a forced air system like most upright machines.  Johnnie provided some excellent drawings of the system if you look around on the board.

Ok,

I couldn't find any pics under Johnnie, or JohnieG.  But I'll assume that I need to have this discharged in order to pull it's guts out.  Is there anything I should be doing after I have it disconnected to preserve the lines, or keep moisture out?

Thanks again!

Goach

[loman4ec]

Why do you have to take it out? I have found that you can clean it and paint it while it is still in the unit. It just seems like a big hassle to discharge a working system. It also isn't too cost efficient.

I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and I would like to give the unit the best cleaning and painting that I can.  This will also give me a little more insight for the next machine that comes my way!

 '>

[Jim]

Quote (Goach2 @ Nov. 19 2004,9:32)

I couldn't find any pics under Johnnie, or JohnieG.  But I'll assume that I need to have this discharged in order to pull it's guts out.  Is there anything I should be doing after I have it disconnected to preserve the lines, or keep moisture out?

Joel,

I think the original post may have been this one:

Ideal 55

Just be sure to break into the system in a place that's easily assessable for re-soldering. I'm not a refrigeration guy but I have seen tech crip and solder the lines to keep contaminates out. At the least, crimping the lines should work for a short time...

Jim,

Thanks for the reply.  Fortunately, both the lines into the system have threaded flares that I can simply unscrew.  Will simply blocking and taping these ends be enough to keep the lines safe over the winter months?

Goach

[johnieG]

On some of the bigger Ideal 300/700/800 series had a forced air type system, (unlike the 35/55/85 series with convection cooling of the tank)& the whole system slides out the end/side of the chassis compressor deck & all, & was service as a unit, so posting some pictures would help you out a great deal at this point. but in the worst case, at least you have flare fittings!  '>

[globalcompressors]

Be sure to tape off the ends, the evaporator ends as well as the compressor ends. When you get ready to reinstall, pull a good, long vacuum before charging. Change the drier. You should be fine. If possible, solder a service valve in line. Don't use a clamp on style. You're just asking for leaks.

.... In fact, forget the tape. You really should crimp and solder. Put a small shot of freon to add positive pressure. This will keep out any moisture. Moisture and freon create corrosive properties that can cause problems, if you plan on keeping the machine down over a long period. Short term, tape would probably be fine.

Eric