Title: Wd-12 evap fan!
Post by: on November 14, 2002, 09:52:34 pm
I have a wd-12 chest that was working well this summer, I plugged it in and it got cold and ran for about 10mins. Then I heard a pop! and saw a spark in the cold area somewhere near the bottom of the evap coils. Now the compressor and condensor fan both work, but the evap fan does not come on. The copper tubing does get cold. Please Help!!
Title: Wd-12 evap fan!
Post by: johnieG on November 14, 2002, 11:05:08 pm
Well alincoln looks like you'll be replacing the evap. motor/fan!
it's not too hard though (on the bright side) I've got a WD12 also so I can help direct you as needed, first you'll need a replacement motor, go with a 4watt CCW (counterclockwise as view from the shaft end of the motor)
if you've got a Gaingers Industrial Supply around its part No.3M628 in their 2002 catalog. about $17.00, (you may need to replace the fan blade as some original fan blades won't mount onto the shaft of the replacement motor, I used a 7"
5-blade unit part#4C474 [about $4.50 ]to go with the listed motor above), now unload the cooler and remove the bottom baffels from the coolers floor, next remove the 8 screws holding the "H" shape vertical baffel with the hood that goes over the evap. assembly & remove it from the tank, now you've got direct access to the evap. motor. Now if your old motor has only two screws holding it to the frame assy (@ the 9:00 & 3:00 position) then you'll have to get a universal mounting bracket also & modify it to fit the frame, as the new motors don't have that type of mounting holes. ( they have a triagular pattern on the rear)I used bracket No.1C897 [$5.00] & cut the legs off with a hacksaw. you might need to put some spacers on the four corner bolts of the frame to maintain clearance between the fan & coil, (also remember that the fan pulls the air up over the coils & pushes it out the hood so that it flows down & over the bottles & back into the bottom baffels back to the evap. coils) for splicing the electrical line I used heat shrinkable crimp connectors being this is a damp area subjected to condesate water. I spliced as far up on the line as possible to keep water from getting to the splice. hop it helps...JohnieG
it's not too hard though (on the bright side) I've got a WD12 also so I can help direct you as needed, first you'll need a replacement motor, go with a 4watt CCW (counterclockwise as view from the shaft end of the motor)if you've got a Gaingers Industrial Supply around its part No.3M628 in their 2002 catalog. about $17.00, (you may need to replace the fan blade as some original fan blades won't mount onto the shaft of the replacement motor, I used a 7"
5-blade unit part#4C474 [about $4.50 ]to go with the listed motor above), now unload the cooler and remove the bottom baffels from the coolers floor, next remove the 8 screws holding the "H" shape vertical baffel with the hood that goes over the evap. assembly & remove it from the tank, now you've got direct access to the evap. motor. Now if your old motor has only two screws holding it to the frame assy (@ the 9:00 & 3:00 position) then you'll have to get a universal mounting bracket also & modify it to fit the frame, as the new motors don't have that type of mounting holes. ( they have a triagular pattern on the rear)I used bracket No.1C897 [$5.00] & cut the legs off with a hacksaw. you might need to put some spacers on the four corner bolts of the frame to maintain clearance between the fan & coil, (also remember that the fan pulls the air up over the coils & pushes it out the hood so that it flows down & over the bottles & back into the bottom baffels back to the evap. coils) for splicing the electrical line I used heat shrinkable crimp connectors being this is a damp area subjected to condesate water. I spliced as far up on the line as possible to keep water from getting to the splice. hop it helps...JohnieG
Title: Wd-12 evap fan!
Post by: johnieG on November 14, 2002, 11:11:42 pm
Hers another shot of the assy.
Title: Wd-12 evap fan!
Post by: on November 15, 2002, 09:19:57 am
Thanks for the quick and detailed response! It sounds like you're sure the fan has blown. I guess if when I cut the wire going to the fan, if I plug it back in, there should be continuous voltage on it since that fan is supposed to always run?
Title: Wd-12 evap fan!
Post by: johnieG on November 15, 2002, 10:03:48 am
Yep the evap. fan runs all the time, so it allways has 115VAC line voltage on its wires, but be carefull! there could also be a chafed wire thats opened up (due to vibration,etc.) that caused the spark you saw, so regardless your going to have to get into the evap. area anyway to have a look-see.
saftey first! unplug the machine while you disasemble it and be on the look out for shorts, bare wires, & cracked/brittle wiring
let us know what you find and post a picture if you can!
saftey first! unplug the machine while you disasemble it and be on the look out for shorts, bare wires, & cracked/brittle wiring
let us know what you find and post a picture if you can!Title: Wd-12 evap fan!
Post by: on December 18, 2002, 10:46:53 pm
I was reading the comments on the evap fan and I have a WD-10 which I am restoring. I have to replace the evap fan motor and the condenser motor because of faulty wiring and am looking for replacements. Would appreciate any help on what motors would match the WD-10. Went to the local cooling supplier and they could help unless they new the HP of the motors. Would the motor for the WD-12 match the WD-10? :D
Title: Wd-12 evap fan!
Post by: johnieG on December 19, 2002, 10:02:01 am
In a word, Yes! 
the WD12 and the WD10 (or 10 case master) actually use the same compressor assy. just have them cross reference the granger part no.'s it's the same motor . but the old fan blades may not fit the new motors hub, so you'll probably have to replace them too. for the evap. motor the spec.'s are; 4-watt & 1/185 H.P. 1550 RPM, CCW rotation (as viewed from the shaft end of the motor ) grainger part no. 3M628 and for the condenser fan;
6-watt & 1/125 H.P. 1550 RPM, CCW rotation. grainger part no. 3M630. both are 115 volt. hope this helps!
the WD12 and the WD10 (or 10 case master) actually use the same compressor assy. just have them cross reference the granger part no.'s it's the same motor . but the old fan blades may not fit the new motors hub, so you'll probably have to replace them too. for the evap. motor the spec.'s are; 4-watt & 1/185 H.P. 1550 RPM, CCW rotation (as viewed from the shaft end of the motor ) grainger part no. 3M628 and for the condenser fan;6-watt & 1/125 H.P. 1550 RPM, CCW rotation. grainger part no. 3M630. both are 115 volt. hope this helps!
Title: Wd-12 evap fan!
Post by: on January 06, 2003, 08:25:40 pm
johnie g, i have a wd-5 that i am in the process of replacing the evap fan. i wish i would have seen this post sooner because i have been trying to fabricate an assembly to mount the fan back in the cooler but finding success slowly. if that mounting bracket shown in the photo is available at graingers i will be going there tomorrow. i took the old motor apart and took a hacksaw and cut it off so it looked like a flange off a exhaust pipe off a car, drilled and tapped two holes for set screws to attach it to the motor. but now the 3 vane blade that attaches to that motor has a pitch that will not fit in the hole properly. after ordering a 5 vane fan from funtronics i will see if it works. but if i can get it all for less than 10.00 dollars at graingers. i am there! thanks for the excellent and detail description on that problem. keep up the nice work! i will let you know how it turns out. troy
Title: Wd-12 evap fan!
Post by: johnieG on January 06, 2003, 09:24:54 pm
Here you go...hope it helps you too. I just sawed the legs off.