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Author Topic: Vendo 144  (Read 19067 times)
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BrianB
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« Reply #20 on: July 14, 2005, 07:16:55 am »

The wiring diagram and the loading instructions are reversed from the other liner. My restored liner originally had the diagrams/instructions in the same location as now. I guess there wasn't a ryhme or reason to the positioning.

Oh yeah, for the broken sides where your mounting holes are, I used thin (but strong) plastic strips that I got from some moulding peices purchased from Lowes and cut it to size to fit around the entire perimeter of the liner using four peices. I matched the holes and drilled then epoxied the strips down. I used Soda Jerk Works (sponsor banner can be found at the top of this page) "R1" gasket material to finish off the restoration. Here's another pic, hope this helps!  ':drinkers:'




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Brian
Lulu
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« Reply #21 on: July 14, 2005, 07:27:17 am »

That looks great, Brian!!  I was just wondering what I was going to do with the liner on a Cav 64.  All of the screw holes are chunked out.  Would I need to run the plexiglass down the entire side to make sure the liner seals tightly?  What did you use to cut the plexiglass?  Thanks alot for this "lesson on
restoration"!!
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« Reply #22 on: July 14, 2005, 11:46:47 am »

LuAnn, I’ve cut Plexiglas on a band saw.  It worked well, and took a file to the rough edges.  If you don’t have a band saw, a jigsaw will also work.

In the past, I’ve used a product from Stainless Steel Coatings, Inc. ( http://www.steel-it.com/index.html ) to paint parts with.  I’ve used the polyurethane based product with great success.  It has a 316 stainless pigment that looks good on machines, but might not be “correct” for coke machines.  

It sounds like Brian did what I was thinking with reguards about repairing the liner.  It looks good, just hope I can achieve the same success.  Thanks Brian.

For the slug rejector, the in slot and the coin reject mechanism is in the same place for all the different manufactures?

As for the condensate tube, I foresee it’s going to be a pain to install the tub with the tube attached.  I can’t believe that Vendo did it that way originally.  That’s why I’m looking for a way to make the connection after the tub is finished and installed.  One idea I did have was to weld/solder a fitting to the outside bottom of the tub, then repair the tub.  Once installed, connect the condensate tube.

Thanks,
Dave
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BrianB
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« Reply #23 on: July 14, 2005, 01:39:43 pm »

Lulu -

I purchased my small sheet of plexi at Lowes and hanging on a peg right next to the selection of glass were small folding blade cutters being sold for no more than $5. It's white and about 6" long. It comes with instructions for proper cutting. So, if you don't feel safe using a jigsaw/bandsaw/power tool to cut your plexi with, this is probably the best way to go.

Also, for the type of cuts you need to make, the only thing you are really concerned with is not making a rough break. the cuts/sizes don't have to be precise seeing as how they won't even be visible behind all of that pink insulation!!
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Brian
Lulu
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« Reply #24 on: July 16, 2005, 06:40:33 am »

Thanks guys!!

The talents of this group amaze me.  I love it!!
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« Reply #25 on: September 02, 2005, 12:06:03 pm »

Here are some before pics of my machine, I saved it from a barn.  I'll post some after pics when it gets moved along.
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BryanH
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« Reply #26 on: September 02, 2005, 02:57:50 pm »

Quote (VMC117BMB @ July 14 2005,5:16)
Oh yeah, for the broken sides where your mounting holes are, I used thin (but strong) plastic strips that I got from some moulding peices purchased from Lowes and cut it to size to fit around the entire perimeter of the liner using four peices.

Man, I wish I had seen this thread back in July.  Went on vacation and somehow missed it. Anyway...

Brian - are the plastic strips you used for the perimeter plexi-glass or something else?  The some moulding peices comment threw me off for a bit.




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Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
BrianB
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« Reply #27 on: September 03, 2005, 09:51:22 pm »

Sorry about the ambiguity in my "some moulding" statement!
The plastic moulding that I used was being sold as an accessory for a drop ceiling kit. I don't remember the actual name of the company that produced the moulding though.

But, I was basically looking for a strip of semi-rigid plastic that measured 1/2" and had a thickness of 1/8". That being said, when I was in the market for it, I kept my eyes peeled for anything that would work and stumbled onto this.
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Brian
BryanH
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« Reply #28 on: September 04, 2005, 11:35:24 pm »

Thanks Brian - go figure, I went out on Friday night looking for plexiglass and decided instead to buy a sheet of the plactic they use for lens / covers on flourescent light fixtures.   Not quite the same stuff you used but pretty similar. I also tried using Plumbers Goop for ABS instead of epoxy because it doesn't dry as hard and rigid.  Hope to finish it this weekend and get the door back on.  I'll let you know how it works. And thanks again for the tip.
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Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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