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Author Topic: Cutting plexiglass - tips or techniques?  (Read 9153 times)
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BryanH
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« on: November 21, 2005, 01:29:05 pm »

Had a frustrating time with a sheet of plexi-glass. Trying to cut replacements for my VMC110 bottle door.  Sheet is 1/8" thick.  I've been using my jigsaw with a fine tooth blade with no luck.  If I go slow it heats the plastic and melts the edges. If I go fast it chips and cracks.

How do you guys & gals do it?




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Creighton
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« Reply #1 on: November 21, 2005, 01:47:09 pm »

PITA isn't it!! Hardware store had a saw called a "Shark Saw" if you use a board to help stabilize the blade it works ok. Might be for cutting PVC, can't remember.
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #2 on: November 21, 2005, 03:27:26 pm »

With a steel straightedge and a carpet knife, you should be able to "score" a deep groove into both sides of the plastic.  Laying it on the edge of the table it should break at the weak spot, right  along the line.
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Glen
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« Reply #3 on: November 21, 2005, 03:33:52 pm »

The straight edge and razor knife have always worked best for me.
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glassbottlesrule
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« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2005, 03:35:12 pm »

Glen is right.  The score method works the best unless it is a polycarbonate such as Lexan.  If it is just plexi score several times against a straightedge.  Take to the edge of the table and snap off.  If you are going to cut a bunch I suggest you go to your local glass shop and buy yourself a plexi-cutter.  The brand we use at work are Fletcher's and they seem to be about the best.  It should be under 10 bucks.
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dprat1
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« Reply #5 on: November 21, 2005, 04:48:29 pm »

I saw a method on a hot rod show that I have tried just out of curiosity. The plexi is scored as Glen described but just prior to snapping it, pour a small amount of rubbing alcohol along the cut and then light it. as soon as it flames out,,break it along the score. Know it sounds silly,,but it seemed to work when I tried it. I think the brief heat is enough to weaken at the score line but won't melt or burn the plexi. I suggest a practice piece first. Good Luck.
doug
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BryanH
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« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2005, 05:53:14 pm »

I tried the scoring method originally... It worked even worse for me but I think it was the case of not scoring it deep enough and only on one side.  This might be a case of my patience-defficiency getting in the way of doing a good job.  I'll try again... if it doesn't work I'll go with Doug's up-in-flames method - with extra fuel to reduce it to a bubbling mass of goo
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« Reply #7 on: November 21, 2005, 08:42:20 pm »

Guess the type of material might affect what works.  I have cut thicker plexiglass type material with a jigsaw.  The lighter more plastic types of material, like panels for overhead ceiling lights, worked very well with the knife and straight edge.  I scored them from one side only, several strokes until the pressure of the scoring  caused them to snap off.  Always on a flat surface for support.
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aspbear
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« Reply #8 on: November 21, 2005, 09:17:25 pm »

I use a band saw and when I get the area of the cut measured, I run masking tape down both sides. Then I measure for the cut and use the band saw to cut through the masking tape, no splinters and no melting. There may be a rough edge that will just crumble away.  I usually cut the 1/8 inch and thicker this way with no problems.  The thiner stuff I use the score and break method..
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« Reply #9 on: November 22, 2005, 01:20:33 pm »

No, no! Use a table saw, fellas. Carbide blade (+/- $10), keep the blade up a little high (so the plexi doesnt' "walk" up over the blade), hold snuggly and take it slow. I manage a carpenter shop and we do it all the time. I just cut 3 pieces for the door on my Cavalier 72, in fact. ':drinkers:'
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« Reply #10 on: November 22, 2005, 03:29:48 pm »

I cut mica sheets to size on a table saw for doing cabinets.  Just have never had the need, or problems cutting plastic  other ways, to have tried it on the table saw.  When cutting the mica sheets, I place and old piece of 1/4" paneling on the table saw, turn on the blade and crank it up through the paneling to the height I want, then rip away.  I do not see any reason why the same would not work for plastic.



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Creighton
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« Reply #11 on: November 23, 2005, 09:44:03 pm »

Great tips all, Thanks!!
Creighton
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sodaworks
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« Reply #12 on: November 24, 2005, 12:27:13 am »

I grew up working in a family business that specializes in plastic extrusion. We always used a band saw on "fast speed" and sprayed the blade with silicone spray for best results. '<img'>
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« Reply #13 on: November 24, 2005, 12:38:39 am »

Brian,  THanks for the machine.  I guess by your posting that I am the owner of the VF 77B-A.  I did the switch as you explained and I'm happy.  Can't really figure out the site for all the stuff you mentioned but I'll keep plugging away.  Everyone, Brian is great to work with.  By the way I purchased today from him and all is well.  That is the beer is COLD!!!  Thanks again.:D
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Tim

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BryanH
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« Reply #14 on: November 24, 2005, 06:33:44 pm »

Hey Tim - welcome.  Glad to hear that you got the 77 home safe and sound.  Give me a call if you need some pointers... but my guess is that you'll get the hang of this site soon enough.  Enjoy your turkey and the machine!
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Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
BryanH
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Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


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« Reply #15 on: November 24, 2005, 06:34:57 pm »

Oh yeah - I tried a finer blade on the jigsaw (don't have a bandsaw) and it worked fine.  Guess I won't need to burn it.  Thanks for all the tips.
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Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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