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Author Topic: Westinghouse wet chest suggestions ???  (Read 4550 times)
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Guest
« on: August 25, 2003, 10:43:24 pm »

hello all
I have had 2 wet chests stored for restortion a long time now and have finally decided to strip them and paint.
a few questions.
Paint color?  I have #'s of many different brands(dulux, dupont, PPG) and like the look of the PPG colors. Does it matter brand if i have a clean spot for them to match??

Painting the raised lettering white?'<img'> i am going to try to roll it with a small flat roller. Is there a better way???

One of the chests(my guinea pig actually) had "Nehi" signs screwed over the coke logos and locks on both doors. Someone drilled right through the stainless steel interior to bolt in the latches.....is this fixable(or worth fixing?) Do i use bondo for the holes on the outside? I am not too picky since i plan on using this as my guinea pig for painting the lettering and it provided some mint parts for the other one, but would like it to be a nice piece nonetheless.
thanks!!!
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audiobeer
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« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2003, 09:59:02 pm »

I wouldn't fill the holes whith bondo. The Bondo will contract and expand and will be the weak link that will screw up your paint job. Grind the metal clean at the holes and if they are small enough just braze it closed with a torch. If they are big  see if you can weld a patch on the back side. I'd go as for as welding a  nail head on the front and grinding it down before filling it with bondo alone.
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Missouri
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« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2003, 07:01:44 am »

Quote (audiobeer @ Sep. 03 2003,10:59)
If they are big  see if you can weld a patch on the back side. I'd go as for as welding a  nail head on the front and grinding it down before filling it with bondo alone.

the holes for the screws are tiny...however the holes that held the locks in place are pretty big(i'm not sure a regular nailhead would fill it). I don't really see a way to get at the backside of the hole for those. I personally don't like the idea of bondo either but other than fiberglass or some sort of "quick steel" epoxy type of filler, i am at a loss of what to do.....besides i also have a ding to fill.
thanks for the input, i'll try to braze smaller holes for sure.
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Pat Pixley
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« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2003, 09:06:20 pm »

Here is a trick that I was taugh in a autobody class
find a washer that is the size of the hole then braze
that in. the smaller the inside hole the better .
We would use a piece of brazing rod and put a little
hook in it to put in the inside hole to hold the washer up
as we would braze it (this would take two people.
we only have two hands) this way you have narrowed
the hole up . and as we were told the more metal the better.


Pat P. ':<img:'>
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Bob K
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« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2003, 11:03:50 am »

How about his question relating to painting the embossed lettering?  I've always wondered about that.

For my V81 I hired a sign painter to do it by hand.  Is there a better way?

How was it done in the factory?

Bob
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Guest
« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2003, 06:11:15 pm »

Have any of you tried drilling out the hole to make it round, then screwing in a fine threaded screw or bolt, preferably from the rear?      
But from the front will do.  Then grinding down what protrudes.  Followed by sanding, prime, and paint?
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Pat Pixley
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« Reply #6 on: September 05, 2003, 10:18:15 pm »

that might work on some small hole's But what from keeping that screw from backing out in the future  '<img'>  I could see brazing it in place . And as far as the lettering on the machine Tape it off with pin stripping tape then use
masking tape on the outer edge of the pin stripping
tape  and use a door jam gun or a air brush
to paint your lettering. practice's first .

Pat P.




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Guest
« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2003, 10:42:56 pm »

To the question of what is to keep the screw from backing out.

1.  Its is screwed tight in to metal not wood and therefore will not   shrink like wood which allows nails to back out.
2.  The primer and paint work like lock-tite.

I have seen it used and done it myself.  Works great.  Never saw one back out.  You could always do a little brasing if you wanted.
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John in NC
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« Reply #8 on: December 04, 2003, 08:50:16 am »

Quote (Bob K @ Sep. 05 2003,12:03)
"How about his question relating to painting the embossed lettering?  I've always wondered about that.

For my V81 I hired a sign painter to do it by hand.  Is there a better way?"

Another method is to lay a thick base coat in red, then paint the white. Now sand/polish off the white on the raised embossing until you get to the red base, comes out shiny, perfect and no brush marks or uneven edges.
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