Coin mech troubleshooting 101

[joesquid]

I wrote the following as a reply to a post in another section and Glen (Moondawg) suggested reposting it here.  Hope it helps answer some of your questions and guides you in the right direction to get your non-functioning coin mech working.

First off, let me dispel a misconception about coin mechs, most coin mechs will work fine with the change tube empty as long as you're using exact change in the form of dimes and nickels.  Are the coins dropping straight through the slug rejector (the upper part of the coin mech) into the change return chute?  In most cases the slug rejector is dirty and the counterweights (small rotating parts that the coin passes through) aren't moving freely.  The whole secret behind proper operation of the slug rejector is to make sure those counterweights aren't binding up and slowing or stopping coin movement through the rejector.  If that happens the coin will stick or hesitate, lose momentum and drop through the change chute.  Another problem could be that the rejector lever (located on top of the coin mech) is slightly depressed and has pushed the outer part of the rejector away from the back plate just enough that the coin has too much play room and drops straight through the rejector to the change chute.

 One other problem is that the CREMs (coin return electromagnets) aren't energized.  Most coin changers have two, one for the .25 coin path and one for the .05/.10 coin path.  The .05/.10 CREM energizes when the unit is plugged in.  An easy check is to unplug the coin changer from the coke machine then plug it back in.  You should hear an audible "click".  That means the CREM coil is pulling the CREM arms back out of the coin path so the coins can get through the rejector.  If you don't hear the click, pull the rejector off the coin changer so you can see the CREM (the .05/.10 is on the lower right side) and try the procedure again.  If you don't see the CREM arms move when you plug in the changer, the coil is probably bad and needs to be replaced or rewound.

 The .25 CREM will energize only if you have enough change in the change chute to activate a swing switch in the chute, which in turn, energizes the .25 CREM thus pulling its arms out of the .25 coin path.  

If the CREMs seem okay, try cleaning the rejector.  Remove it from the coin changer and (if plastic) soak it in a soapy water solution then rinse and air or blow dry the rejector.  The old metal rejectors (from NRI units) can be boiled (yes, like in a big pot on the stove) in a soapy water solution to remove dirt and grease.  Check the counterweights for free travel.  If they don't swing freely, carefully remove the "c" clips with a jeweler's flathead screwdriver, pull the counterweight off, wipe the shaft clean and, if need be, add a tiny (and I mean TINY) amount of penetrating oil to the shaft.  Make sure to wipe up any excess oil as it will do nothing but attract dirt.  Put the counterweight back on and carefully replace the "c" clip.  

I know that's alot of information to digest but hope it helps.  Feel free to holler if you need more assistance.

[joesquid]

bump

Great info Eric, thanks.

Does anyone have info on the dip switches and what the on/off settings are for a Cavalier USS-64?
Thanks,
Jack

[johnieG]

Quote (jrtrucks @ Feb. 12 2005,12:48)

Does anyone have info on the dip switches and what the on/off settings are for a Cavalier USS-64? Thanks, Jack

That depends on the coinmech that's in it. Cavalier, like Vendo & others used a variety of different coinmech models, the most popular seems to be the Coinco model line, But Vendo made there own "knock0off" copy cat coinmechs, like the variprice, there are other's too NCR, mars, etc.

so look at the coinmech itself, from your description of the mech having "switches" it's probably a Coinco S75-9800 series, maybe an "A" or "B" model, check out the label on the side of the mech, or post a picture & we can go from there.. :'>

It is a coinco mech. and the model # of the coin mechanism is 3340-S, here is what it looks like

[johnieG]

yours is a Coinco 3000 series mech, here's some info from the coinco website...

3000-S Series
1. Unplug the coin changer.

2. Remove the acceptor.

3. Located in the upper portion of the changer is a single switch module with six rocker switches. When the top of the rocker switch is pushed in, it is in the ON position. The switches correspond as follows:
1= $.05
2=$.10
3=$.20
4=$.40
5=$.80
6=$1.60

4. The vend price is set by adding the value of switches 1-6 which are on the ON position.

5. Set switches 1-6 to desired vend price. Make sure vend price set on changer corresponds to vend price indicated on front of vendor.</font>

[vintagegamer]

I'm trying to troubleshoot a coin mech in a vending machine I have.  The mech at the top of the unit is a CoinCo 880.  If you put in quarters, dimes, or nickels, it recognizes them as part of the money for the purchase (specifically, the LED on the front of the machine shows the amt that was deposited).  However, the nickels are not making their way down to the nickel tube.  They end up getting stuck in the mid-section of the mech unit (below the 880 part but above the tubes) and won't drop down into the nickel tube.  If I fill the nickel and quarter tubes with coins, change dispenses with no issues.  So, in summary, everything is working correctly except for the routing of the nickels to the corresponding tube.

There is also a small plastic piece that I found, about an inch in length and almost triangular in shape, which is currently not in the mech.  I can provide pics but is this piece maybe what is causing my issue? 

I can provide pics at a later time if they would help in diagnosing my problem. 

[johnieG]

I suggest you slide over to Coinco & download the manual for the 800 series..here's a link to the Adobe/PDF manual.

http://www.coinco.com/coin/faq/servicematerials/922227-8.pdf

[ronnie63]

Some good info here