SMC Discussion Areas
May 15, 2024, 01:16:01 pm *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News:
 
   Home   Help Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Compressor Current Relay  (Read 4710 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
markc
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 10


« on: June 26, 2012, 10:10:00 am »

Hello all.  First I would like to say thanks to this site and its contributors.  Almost everything I needed to know was contained somewhere in the forum posts.

I have one question though,  On my compressor the original current relay was ruined (Attaching picture)
I searched the internet with the numbers on the relay '9660-040-991'  and found a replacement part from GE.
I am also attaching the information sheet that came with the replacement part.

The question I have is, on the information sheet it reads "For non-compacitor start application use relay as is, For capacitor start applications only, BLUE LEAD MUST BE CUT"

Which is it? Should I cut the Blue wire or Not? 

if it helps, here is my compressor information: Model: V24TD   14oz,  1/4   3.5amp
Logged
globalcompressors
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 839


Global Compressors (Eric)


WWW
« Reply #1 on: June 26, 2012, 03:19:42 pm »

your relay in non-cap start....so use the new one, as is.
Logged

how's that OBAMA CARE workin' out for ya?
markc
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 10


« Reply #2 on: June 26, 2012, 06:19:36 pm »

 Thanks,  I have hooked up, all seems to be working.   
Logged
crxman
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 8


« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2012, 01:17:51 am »

what would cause this, i had the same problem with my machine
Logged
markc
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 10


« Reply #4 on: July 28, 2012, 11:04:01 am »

my wires were old and cracking,  I assume they crossed/shorted out and caused the problem.
Logged
MrMark
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 35


« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2012, 04:41:47 pm »

Generally caused by a poor crimp where the wire goes into the plastic shell of the relay. While all crimps have some resistance, a bad crimp has more than usual, which results in heat in the crimp. It heats up a little when the compressor starts/runs, then cools off in the off cycle, where it's resistance got a little higher than it was. Next start/run, same thing all over again, only slightly worse. Over time, the connector looses it's spring tension and the resistance at the connection to the compressor terminal begins to fail, and get hotter.

It can happen quickly, or over a period of years. I have seen this in electric furnaces over and over again. I used to always solder high current connectors on furnaces where I could, which eliminates the problem. Same thing can happen in your home breaker panel, which is why it is recommended to have your panel checked on occasion for loose connections. Even the ones that are screw tight.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.15 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!