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Author Topic: Another Juke Value Question  (Read 16503 times)
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loman4ec
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« on: May 30, 2009, 12:13:45 am »

I found a Seeburg M100A that has been converted to play 45's. It is complete and in restorable condition. The Control unit has been rebuilt and but the owner says it needs a reversing switch and the amp rebuilt. It is complete and has a good cabinet and glass. I t is about a 3.5 hour drive for me each way. I can get the box for $300. Should I go get it? Is an A worth it? I figure it is worth that in parts probably. The glass is the same as a C and my C needs glass. But even still is an A worth restoring? It would be for resale as I already have my Rock-ola. I would just store it for a few years until I come home. I have plenty of free storage available. What do you all think? The A is not the best looking and it has been converted to 45's which I don't know if thats a plus or a minus. What do you think?
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BrianB
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« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2009, 08:43:49 am »

A reversing switch is a set of stacked contacts with a snap switch used to change the direction of the carriage as it reaches the outer limit of it's travel (left to right) I've seen a people on ebay selling Reversing Switchs for under $25. Rebuilding the amp, if you have Bill Bickers do it, will cost you $195 + S&H. Rebuilding an amp is always the norm on an unrestored box so this cost should always be figured into the buying price equation unless the seller speciffically states that the amplifier has been rebuilt and tested.

Finding an "A" that has been converted to play 45's is very common. In my opinion, it dosen't take a lot away from the value in today's market. Most buyers want to play what they know, 45's.

I would buy it for $300.
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loman4ec
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« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2009, 08:59:57 am »

Thanks. Does anyone have a juke value book? What does it say a Seeburg A is worth? What parts are sellable for other machines? The dome is the same for a C right? I would be money ahead to buy it just for the glass and anything else I make would be extra. The glass is in great cond and the glass in my C is all bad. On the other hand it may be worth a restoration and sell it. I am torn on what to do. It is quite a far trip.
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Cokemachinesandmore
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« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2009, 10:08:37 am »

i am 99% sure that the dome glass from a seeburg a will not fit on a seeburg c.  i use to have the a, b and c but sonly have a seeburg b left so i cant take measurements.
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loman4ec
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« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2009, 10:27:45 am »

I thought the top of the A, B and C were the same?Huh???
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loman4ec
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« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2009, 10:35:19 am »

Your right they are different. My bad. still is it worth the money for resale or part out? Is there a market?
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Kilroy
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« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2009, 10:46:05 am »

The A, in my opinion is the red headed step child of the Seeburgs. It's bulkier than the later Select-o-Matic models, it was originally designed for 78's, and yeah there is a conversion kit which was widely used to allow it to play 45's,  but you lose sound quality. We're working on rebuilding an A mech right now, the #$$ is built like a tank, and just as heavy.
that said,  for $300, and free storage,  sit on it  until the market gets better. You won't get the same dollar as a C or G, or but anything over your initial purchase price is profit.
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David D
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« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2009, 02:01:01 pm »

Josh,

I don't believe many of the A parts are interchangeable on other models.  After the B many of the parts were interchangeable. 
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loman4ec
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« Reply #8 on: May 30, 2009, 10:01:15 pm »

Here is a pic of the juke I am looking at and also a file photo of what it should look like. To me it looks like a nice box. the reason I posted the file photo is to ask the people that have seen one of these in the past if the grill really lights up like that. I am sure it is lit up from the top and it is just a reflection, but does it really look like that? I like it.

The juke I am looking at is in pretty good shape and is 100% complete except the coin door.
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David D
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« Reply #9 on: May 30, 2009, 10:32:08 pm »

Josh,

The grill doesn't light up, there is a motorized transparent tray above the grill, the light shines through the tray/film and reflects on the grill slats.   Since it's a reflection it's not as clearly defined as the example in the photo.

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loman4ec
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« Reply #10 on: May 31, 2009, 06:57:11 am »

So in everyone's opinion is the Seeburg A more valuable box than my RockOla 1454? After shipping/pickup its going to be about the same cost as the 1454. is it still worth $500? Does anyone have a Juke value guide? Mine is on its way to my Moms. Can someone tell me what the book value is of a Seeburg A?
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loman4ec
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« Reply #11 on: May 31, 2009, 09:04:29 am »

I am trying Uship for the first time and I have had a bid for $150. Thats a really good deal. Its  actually 3 hours each way for me to get it so I can save 6 hours and gas for the trip. I think thats worth It but is the machine worth $450. Can anyone help with a price guide? If this is a dud I will pass but if its a good deal I will get it.  I need advice if anyone has a price guide please?
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Kilroy
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« Reply #12 on: May 31, 2009, 10:17:42 am »

Josh,
My guidebook was published 2008, so take  that into consideration since the market has also tanked, however I see signs  it is  coming around again, slower than I want though.  It also doesn't say if the  prices listed are for an  original 78 , or one converted to 45.

Grade 1 - $3000
Grade 2 - $2500
Grade 3 - $750
Grade 4 - $200

In my opinion, yes $450 is a good price. The machine looks solid, parts are readily available. It has a visible mech, and animations (OK, not as cool as a C) so even when it's not playing it is an art piece, unlike the  square boxes of the  70's.

for a flip,  and being able to store it free, I'd pull the trigger.

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BrianB
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« Reply #13 on: May 31, 2009, 03:05:13 pm »

I agree.
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Brian
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« Reply #14 on: May 31, 2009, 05:19:44 pm »

Kilroy,

You mentioned a guidebook for jukes. Is this vendor specific (ie. Seeburg only) or a general guide with wurllitzer, etc too ? I'm curious to know what my Wurlitzer 2600 is worth (for my own reference, I'm not parting with it).

Chris
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Kilroy
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« Reply #15 on: May 31, 2009, 06:33:11 pm »

Chris, I have a copy of the Always Jukin Price Guide, which lists  the big players ( Wurly, Seeburg, Rockola)  as well as some lesser known companies., Chicago coin, Williams,, etc.
I was at a graduation party  this afternoon, and lent my copy to my buddy, but I'll get it back, or call him for the info for you.
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« Reply #16 on: May 31, 2009, 07:45:06 pm »

Kilroy, that would be great!
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loman4ec
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« Reply #17 on: May 31, 2009, 07:58:56 pm »

I just spoke to the seller and now I have another question. He said the wood on the front has some serious termite damage. All of the rest of the cabinet is fine just the front wood has damage. How hard is it to fix? I think this may be a sign to run away. WHat do you think?
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Kilroy
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« Reply #18 on: May 31, 2009, 08:15:05 pm »

Having built a cabinet for my Seeburg G due to termite damage, I speak from the heart when I say never again.
First of all, I'd be concerned the nest is still active. And just how 'serious' is 'serious termite damage'? The floor rotted?The entire front intact from handholding termites? The plus side is the A is more boxy, so you would have an easier time than I did. 
Dunno Josh, if he will knock some  $$ off the price, and give you pics of the damage, and if you have a way to verify there aren't anymore termites feasting on it  I'd think on it.  If not, pass, nay, run away.
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Cokemachinesandmore
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« Reply #19 on: May 31, 2009, 08:22:12 pm »

you seem hesitant to buy it, and after hearing about the termite damage. run forest run. DONT BUY IT! the rockola is a much nicer machine and when done will be worth way more than any seeburg a
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David D
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« Reply #20 on: May 31, 2009, 09:21:38 pm »

I'd probably pass on it also, unless the seller drops the price a bit.
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loman4ec
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« Reply #21 on: May 31, 2009, 10:31:49 pm »

I agree. I will save my money and get something else.
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Kilroy
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« Reply #22 on: June 04, 2009, 07:13:33 pm »

Chris & Josh
Went ahead and ordered a more current guide book

The Wurly 2600//2610  is listed as $3000 for  Grade 1  condition, $2300 for Grade 2, $500 for grade 3

Josh
the Rockola 1432 - 3100, 2500 and 950, Grades 1, 2, and 3.

Ok, disclaimers,
values are US dollars
They seem slightly high to me, but the manual explains Grades 1 and 2 are 'retail" and factor in delivery  and setup, and service.  I find this a little far, most dealers I've sen charge additional fees for setup and delivery. Shrug.

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loman4ec
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« Reply #23 on: June 04, 2009, 08:42:21 pm »

Thank you. I passed on the A and I got the 1432. I will pick it up when I am home. Thank you for the value info. That makes me feel really good that I got a descent 1432 for $250
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Kilroy
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« Reply #24 on: June 04, 2009, 09:05:02 pm »

No prob, and if you need more proof  you made the right choice, a friend of mine is rebuilding a M100A for one of his customers, he's been calling me every night and telling me, "never again. Never again". built like a tank, as heavy as one  and it 's a converted from 78. so all available schematics don't include the changes  made in the conversion.

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« Reply #25 on: June 08, 2009, 11:50:38 am »

Chris & Josh
Went ahead and ordered a more current guide book

The Wurly 2600//2610  is listed as $3000 for  Grade 1  condition, $2300 for Grade 2, $500 for grade 3

Josh
the Rockola 1432 - 3100, 2500 and 950, Grades 1, 2, and 3.

Ok, disclaimers,
values are US dollars
They seem slightly high to me, but the manual explains Grades 1 and 2 are 'retail" and factor in delivery  and setup, and service.  I find this a little far, most dealers I've sen charge additional fees for setup and delivery. Shrug.


Can you explain the different grades ? I'm interested to know if mine is grade 2 or 3 (no way it's grade 1, that's probably mint condition?)
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Kilroy
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« Reply #26 on: June 08, 2009, 05:00:56 pm »

Grade 1 - Restored. Like new, perfect, Mint.
Grade 2 - Refurbished.  may not be original, but plug  & play. No work needed on it.
Grade 3 - As Is, good Shape.  Might have been sold to a private party after it was pulled from  it's route or  working location. May not work, may need normal maintenance,
Grade 4 - As Is Poor.  Quit working, and was moved out of the house into a shed, barn, warehouse./ Rough shape, dirty, busted, but not much missing.  Cheap to buy, but costly to restore
Grade 5 - Parts machine.  Beaten like a red headed strep child.

Grade 1 & 2  are considered retail proces ( store, auction, and should include  setup and warranty, partsd & serive)
Grades 3, 4 & 5 are considered "as IS:, or wholesale.
If buying from a private party, half of the value of grade 1 & 2 is considered fair.

Reference - Always Jukin Price Guide.  I tend to think some of the numbers are inflated, but it's a guideline from a reputable  source.

It's the same as a pop machine, it's only worth what the buyer is willing to pay, and that may or not be amount you are looking for.
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« Reply #27 on: June 08, 2009, 05:41:53 pm »

Cool, I guess mine is a 3, soon to be a 2 then. It's not fully refurbished, but it's complete and the mech is in good working order. I'm rebuilding the amp and locating extras like steppers and top tunes. Then I have some minor cosmetic work to do.
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