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Author Topic: Silkscreening lettering?  (Read 5695 times)
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Guest
« on: July 29, 2006, 02:16:32 pm »

I know they make water release decals, but does anyone make stencils or paint masks that can be used?  Right now mine are painted on.
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Jim
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« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2006, 05:58:47 pm »

Vinyl lettering is another option that is in use for restorations...
Currently, I don't know of anyone selling stencils for this in part because of the Coke/Coca-Cola copyright infringement. But, that doesn't mean you couldn't accomplish this yourself provided you have the know-how and equipment...
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« Reply #2 on: July 29, 2006, 08:08:51 pm »

I found this company

PhotoEZ

And they make a printer paper that turns into a silk screen.  I saw that none of my lettering would be larger than 8.5" x 11" so this might work.  Now if only someone had a MS Word file of all the lettering with the right fonts ...
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Skeleton Man
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« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2006, 08:33:08 pm »

There is a reproduction of the coke font in a collection called "American Pop".. I think it has like 3 seperate fonts because "Coca" and "Cola" have a different capital C and there are some other differences too..  http://www.myfonts.com/fonts/fontmesa/american-pop/

There is a second rate spin-off called Loki-Cola.. but it doesn't look near as good..




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shellynne
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« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2006, 10:02:29 pm »

Make sure you have a tanning lamp with which to expose the photo-emulsion.  Well, you can also use the sun, but the screen can get over exposed pretty quickly.  

You might just try asking a local screen-printing shop to see if you can "borrow" one of their screens.  They will have a larger format frames.  And, a screen setup fee will only run you about $25, and they do the exposure; they might even tape it off for you, too.

Make sure you ask for a pretty tight mesh - you'll get finer detail.  I'm assuming you're going to be spraying through the screen?

It's also going to be VERY fun to try to stabilize the screen if you leave the machine vertical.  And watching for drips ....  Hope it all works out!

Shelly

PS: In one of my earlier incarnations, I was a professional screen printer ... for about ten years.
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shellynne
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« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2006, 10:05:52 pm »

Oh, and I almost forgot.

To shoot the screen, you will need your image on either a film positive (VERY expensive, but better "blacks") or multiple layers of standard transparencies.  If you go the transparency route, take the time to line them up VERY carefully.  When you shoot the light through the transparency / film positive, and "lighter" black MIGHT haze the burn on your screen and when you go to paint, you won't get an even coat.  If you don't line up the transparencies EXACTLY, your edges will blurr.  Looks really ragged.

If this doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll try to explain more.

Shelly
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« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2006, 08:27:18 am »

Interesting but sounds complicated.
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« Reply #7 on: August 02, 2006, 02:42:08 pm »

I would think you could screen the embossing too... as you pull the paint along the lettering the screen touches only the embossed part. but you would have to lay the door and/or cooler
flat so the paint doesn't run out of the screen..... Hhhmmm....
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Eric

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