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SIGNGUY
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« on: July 15, 2006, 04:39:20 pm » |
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Just picked an ideal 35 slider chest cooler yesterday at a yard sale. I was looking for a glasco 50 but this should suffice and it's smaller. Obviously needs a pretty good makeover, but have never worked on a chest cooler before. The machine cools ,but I still want to remove the refridgeration unit and clean it up and change the fan motor. HOW the heck do you get this unit out without disconnecting it from the Condensing unit that is all wrapped up inside the Box? I have noticed several screw on the inside of the box and maybe the secret will be revealed ,but haven't started wrenching yet. Looking for any tips, advice and knowledge on how to remove the cooling unit so I can start my restoration on this little guy.
Thanks in advance!
John
PS. also looking for a coin mech for it, doesn't even have to be working just something to give it the finished look when done!
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Soda Machine Enthusiast since 1996!
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BryanH
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« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2006, 10:23:05 pm » |
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John - check this thread on removing the liner from an Ideal55. Imagine the 35 would be similar.
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Thanks, Bryan
Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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Eric
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« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2006, 10:51:02 pm » |
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Yard Sale?! Wow... Way to go! a 35 would be awesome to have.... take your time
parts will find their way to you (probably via eBay) 35s are worth some $$$ when done.
Nice Score AND it looks pretty straight and solid!
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Eric
WANTED:
Embossed Quikold Standard
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2006, 12:50:27 pm » |
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Find the 2 bolts holding down the compressor plate and the entire compressor will come out and swing out of the way for painting. Just be carefull to not kink the copper line.
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Glen
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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2006, 10:46:35 pm » |
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Glen,
I read that suggestion in the other thread for Bryan, but with the ideal 35, the only access to the compressor is on the sides, not the front or back, therefore the unit can not be swung out as you suggested. that was my original thought if I could just get it out far enought to clean it and paint it, then slide it back in... unless I'm not seeing what you mean, thank you for the suggestions... I'll probably have to attempt to do what Bryan did? Any other ideas???
Thanks much!
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Soda Machine Enthusiast since 1996!
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2006, 10:26:15 am » |
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What seems to be the problem? Look underneath for hidden hold down bolts.
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Glen
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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2006, 01:36:33 pm » |
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We'll That makes it look pretty easy now! WOW.. I was worried about bending the lines too much, but obviously it can be done!
Thank you very much for pointing that out... Out she comes tonight!
Thanks much,
John
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Soda Machine Enthusiast since 1996!
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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2006, 09:41:19 am » |
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Thanks. so what does happend when R12 Escapes... Is there an odor, is it dangerous? just curios?? Not that anything has happend (yet).
Got the Compressor out and have been clening it with wire brush, will paint with rustoleum Black, tonight and put back in...
I was going to attempt the liner removal, but realized after attempting to get the breaker strips off the bottle loading door, they are all tarred in as well and after getting the top gaskets off, realized the there is a whole lotta tar, insualtion and GUNK holding the coils in place... W'ell just leave that for the next guy who wants to restore it... It gets sanded, and painted in the next few weeks and that will be the extent of my restoration.
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Soda Machine Enthusiast since 1996!
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2006, 10:55:22 am » |
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| Quote (SIGNGUY @ July 18 2006,7:41) | | It gets sanded, and painted in the next few weeks and that will be the extent of my restoration. |
We assume the power cord will be replaced, but usually the side door gasket is pretty brittle. Now is a good time to change it too. |
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Glen
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bubba
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« Reply #10 on: July 18, 2006, 11:15:12 am » |
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| Quote (SIGNGUY @ July 18 2006,10:41) | Thanks. so what does happend when R12 Escapes... Is there an odor, is it dangerous? just curios?? Not that anything has happend (yet).
Got the Compressor out and have been clening it with wire brush, will paint with rustoleum Black, tonight and put back in...
I was going to attempt the liner removal, but realized after attempting to get the breaker strips off the bottle loading door, they are all tarred in as well and after getting the top gaskets off, realized the there is a whole lotta tar, insualtion and GUNK holding the coils in place... W'ell just leave that for the next guy who wants to restore it... It gets sanded, and painted in the next few weeks and that will be the extent of my restoration. |
When R-12 escapes, it is very expensive to replace. Some say its causing a hole in the atmosphere when it floats around in the air... other than that, don't try to touch any gas that is leaking out, it will cause frostbite. |
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Ken
V-63 -Bottles
2-Cavalier USS-64
VMC ST56B Royal Crown - being built
Vendo HA56C Coke
2-V63C DP
V63C Coke
U-Select-It 5cent candybar machine
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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #11 on: July 18, 2006, 03:22:56 pm » |
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Thanks for the heads up on the r-12... Hopefully I won't have to deal with ruptured fridge lines.
In regards to the COMPLETE Restoration, Yes, I plan on redoing the electrical system completely, Also the Gaskets and door liners, then Body work, Paint and reassembly on Casters.
Biggest challenge will be the "once" Stainless steel top.. It's completely dulled, faded, old stickers applied.. you name it.. .I will attempting to clean up and see if I can get the Stainless back.. Any Suggestions on restoring the top to a nice shiney finish or should I get it painted??
Thanks,,, This is fun!
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Soda Machine Enthusiast since 1996!
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BryanH
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« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2006, 04:11:27 pm » |
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John - look here on cleaning up the lid. These pads are magic. I used them on the hinges and from afar they now look like new. Up close you can see some swirls but still looks nice and shiney. Also found they work pretty well on conditioning any less than perfect paint jobs (not the final cut and buff but on the undercoats).
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Logged
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Thanks, Bryan
Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #13 on: July 18, 2006, 06:22:00 pm » |
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Getting your lid to shine will be a real challenge!  '>
Ideal 55's 85's etc. all had stainless steel lids. The Ideal 35's had galvanized painted lids. They also lacked the matching stainless trim across the top front.
This is good, now you can just fill the dents in your lid and paint it with the rest of the body.
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Glen
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SIGNGUY
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« Reply #14 on: July 18, 2006, 07:58:05 pm » |
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I was wondering about that, since it looke more galvanized rather than a shiney stainless gone bad!.. Looks like it gets painted with the body.. thanks Glen.
I forgot to mention, if anyone is interested in this machine, please feel free to PM me and make an offer... I am not that attached to it yet and would rather have a Glasco 50.
Thanks
John
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Soda Machine Enthusiast since 1996!
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audiobeer
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« Reply #15 on: July 19, 2006, 10:30:46 pm » |
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I like the Ideal 35s and want one to go with my Ideal 55. I look forward to seeing if the Glasco pans out that we talked about.
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Missouri
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