Wd-12 evap fan!

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I have a wd-12 chest that was working well this summer, I plugged it in and it got cold and ran for about 10mins.  Then I heard a pop! and saw a spark in the cold area somewhere near the bottom of the evap coils.  Now the compressor and condensor fan both work, but the evap fan does not come on.  The copper tubing does get cold.  Please Help!!

johnieG:
Well alincoln looks like you'll be replacing the evap. motor/fan!
   it's not too hard though (on the bright side) I've got a WD12 also so I can help direct you as needed, first you'll need a replacement motor, go with a 4watt CCW (counterclockwise as view from the shaft end of the motor)
if you've got a Gaingers Industrial Supply around its part No.3M628 in their 2002 catalog. about $17.00, (you may need to replace the fan blade as some original fan blades won't mount onto the shaft of the replacement motor, I used a 7"
5-blade unit part#4C474  [about $4.50 ]to go with the listed motor above), now unload the cooler and remove the bottom baffels from the coolers floor, next remove the 8 screws holding the "H" shape vertical baffel with the hood that goes over the evap. assembly & remove it from the tank, now you've got direct access to the evap. motor. Now if your old motor has only two screws holding it to the frame assy (@ the 9:00 & 3:00 position) then you'll have to get a universal mounting bracket also & modify it to fit the frame, as the new motors don't have that type of mounting holes. ( they have a triagular pattern on the rear)I used bracket No.1C897 [$5.00] & cut the legs off with a hacksaw.  you might need to put some spacers on the four corner bolts of the frame to maintain clearance between the fan & coil, (also remember that the fan pulls the air up over the coils & pushes it out the hood so that it flows down & over the bottles & back into the bottom baffels back to the evap. coils) for splicing the electrical line I used  heat shrinkable crimp connectors being this is a damp area subjected to condesate water. I spliced as far up on the line as possible to keep water from getting to the splice. hop it helps...JohnieG

johnieG:
Hers another shot of the assy.

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Thanks for the quick and detailed response!  It sounds like you're sure the fan has blown.  I guess if when I cut the wire going to the fan, if I plug it back in, there should be continuous voltage on it since that fan is supposed to always run?

johnieG:
Yep the evap. fan runs all the time, so it allways has 115VAC line voltage on its wires, but be carefull! there could also be a chafed wire thats opened up (due to vibration,etc.) that caused the spark you saw, so regardless your going to have to get into the evap. area anyway to have a look-see.
saftey first! unplug the machine while you disasemble it and be on the look out for shorts, bare wires, & cracked/brittle wiring    let us know what you find and post a picture if you can!

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