BryanH
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« on: January 29, 2006, 12:15:51 pm » |
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Looking for tips and techniques to improve the chrome pieces on the Ideal55. The lid has several dents that I'd like to remove (or at least reduce). My problem is that the hinges are riveted into the lid, so I wouldn't be able take the lid apart without drilling out / cutting them off... If I do that I don't know how I would get them back on?
Also looking for general tips on removing suface scratches and buffing the lid and front trim. The front trim is relatively good shape except for a the one scratched area shown in the pic.
Let me know how you guys do it?
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Thanks, Bryan Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration? GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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BryanH
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« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2006, 12:16:56 pm » |
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A closer shot of the scraped trim...
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Thanks, Bryan Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration? GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2006, 12:40:57 pm » |
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Well Bryan, you've gone this far, you might as well pull the compressor and coils and old floor up through the top and right out of the machine. Fold the copper lines in like an accordian and tie them together. Then take the shell to a polishing shop or try fine sanding then polishing the top trim. Drill the rivets from the lid and have the top section re-made, then polished also.
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Glen
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firemun
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« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2006, 03:48:59 pm » |
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Bryan, Not sure if you are interested...but I got a pretty good deal on some new lids from Corn Husker signs. They look really nice.
Jeff
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audiobeer
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« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2006, 08:45:12 pm » |
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I made the mistake of cutting my trim off (Chrome piece on the front. The parts places sell a trim piece that just glues right over the top.
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Missouri
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BryanH
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« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2006, 09:10:10 pm » |
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Quote (MoonDawg @ Jan. 29 2006,10:40) | Well Bryan, you've gone this far, you might as well pull the compressor and coils and old floor up through the top and right out of the machine. Fold the copper lines in like an accordian and tie them together. Then take the shell to a polishing shop or try fine sanding then polishing the top trim. Drill the rivets from the lid and have the top section re-made, then polished also. |
Dang - never thought off that. DUH! Thanks for the tip Glen. I'll pull the whole thing out this week. Also appreciate the tips on the chrome. How fine would you suggest for trying to sand out the trim?
Jeff - just in case things don't go as planned '> how much for the new lids?
AB - you mean sodajerkworks or funtronics?
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Thanks, Bryan Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration? GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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audiobeer
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« Reply #6 on: January 29, 2006, 11:14:44 pm » |
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I bought mine at Funtronics. It may still be around here somewhere. Randy Mitchell is making one as well as the lid. Bottom line on mine all I eneded up doing was the metalwork and finishing. He's doing everything else.
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Missouri
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firemun
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« Reply #7 on: January 29, 2006, 11:34:33 pm » |
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Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I used some of the 3m scotchbrite pads on a die grinder for the trim on the front. I started of with a medium grit (maroon) and worked my way to super fine. Finally used some flitz to polish using a little air polisher. You can make the trim look like new. Mine was really rough but it looks really great now.
jeff
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audiobeer
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« Reply #8 on: January 30, 2006, 11:42:44 pm » |
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Quote (firemun @ Jan. 29 2006,11:34) | Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I used some of the 3m scotchbrite pads on a die grinder for the trim on the front. I started of with a medium grit (maroon) and worked my way to super fine. Finally used some flitz to polish using a little air polisher. You can make the trim look like new. Mine was really rough but it looks really great now.
jeff | Jeff, post a pic with your method if you get some free time. Thanks!
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Missouri
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firemun
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« Reply #9 on: January 31, 2006, 07:54:31 pm » |
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Quote | Jeff, post a pic with your method if you get some free time. Thanks! |
Do you want to see the finished piece...or what the die grinder, the discs and polisher look like...sorry if that seems like a dumb question... but I am not really sure what you want to see.
jeff
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coke_and_stuff
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« Reply #10 on: January 31, 2006, 09:35:44 pm » |
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I would definatly reskin that lid.
Joey
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Collector of nice original paint machines
Vendo 81 B, C, D VMC 81 Pepsi, 7up, RC, Generic 6CV Coke, RC, Pepsi VMC 110 RC Vendo 39 Jacobs 26 Mills 47 Selectivend 64 7up NOS Plus 30-50 parts and project machines
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BryanH
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« Reply #11 on: January 31, 2006, 10:09:57 pm » |
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Quote (firemun @ Jan. 31 2006,5:54) | Quote | Jeff, post a pic with your method if you get some free time. Thanks! |
Do you want to see the finished piece...or what the die grinder, the discs and polisher look like...sorry if that seems like a dumb question... but I am not really sure what you want to see.
jeff | Jeff - I'd like to see both. The disc and polisher especially as I haven't heard of the scotchbrite discs and polisher.
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Thanks, Bryan Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration? GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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audiobeer
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« Reply #12 on: February 01, 2006, 08:13:28 am » |
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Quote (firemun @ Jan. 31 2006,7:54) | Quote | Jeff, post a pic with your method if you get some free time. Thanks! |
Do you want to see the finished piece...or what the die grinder, the discs and polisher look like...sorry if that seems like a dumb question... but I am not really sure what you want to see.
jeff | The finished piece, Thanks!
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Missouri
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firemun
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« Reply #13 on: February 02, 2006, 09:42:59 pm » |
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Bryan, Here are a couple photos of the die grinder with Roloc discs. Roloc is a trademarked name as is scotchbrite (both 3M). You can often find the discs and the pad (arbor) on Ebay. You can get them in 1", 2" and 3" . The pad's "grit" is correlated to the color of the pad.
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firemun
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« Reply #14 on: February 02, 2006, 09:49:47 pm » |
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Here is the polisher. It is beside a 9/16" wrench so you can get an idea of the size. It has a 3" velcro pad that you can attach various buffing pads to...you can get the same pads as you could for a large buffer (applicators, wool etc). It has a variable speed control via small gate valve on the inlet. You can get the die grinder and polisher at a place like Northern Tool. The die grinder has a speed of up to 22,000 rpm so it works well on metal and for stripping paint.
There are mini polishers and mini sanders like the one I have here...and the look exactly alike. However the mini polisher's rpm is a fraction of the sanders...so if you get the wrong one...you could burn paint trying to buff with it.
Hope this helps
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BryanH
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« Reply #15 on: February 02, 2006, 11:04:10 pm » |
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Thanks for the pics and description. Btw - nice tools... and bench. Any chance you could come by and cleanup / organize mine?
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Thanks, Bryan Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration? GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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MoonDawg
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« Reply #16 on: February 03, 2006, 11:46:14 am » |
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Wow those pads are just what I need, and I didn't know about them either. I use Scotch pads by hand and have grinders and polishers for coarse and fine work. This is in between, perfect. Thanks for sharing Jeff.
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Glen
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sodaworks
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« Reply #17 on: February 03, 2006, 02:06:06 pm » |
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These pads work really well. They are worth there weight in gold. '>
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TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS Lots of Round Top machines Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
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firemun
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« Reply #18 on: February 26, 2006, 07:53:47 pm » |
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BryanH, Here is a lid on ebay...may be better than what you have Slider Lid
Item # just in case: 7593757749
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BryanH
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« Reply #19 on: February 27, 2006, 12:06:08 pm » |
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Thanks Jeff - I've emailed the seller to see what lurks below that fine blue paint job....
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Thanks, Bryan Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration? GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
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