SMC Discussion Areas
December 13, 2018, 01:00:44 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News:
 
   Home   Help Login Register  
Pages: 1 2 3 4 [All]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Removing an ideal55 liner  (Read 10210 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
BryanH
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1356


Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


WWW
« on: January 16, 2006, 12:02:26 AM »

I've found several posts that say you cannot take the liner out of an Ideal55 because of the coiling coils being attached to the liner.  A single post says the coils aren't soldered but glued with that black tar stuff.  I'd really like to get the liner out so I can clean and paint the liner and hopefully (without taking the refrigeration out) clean and paint the compressor and copmressor area.

So, does anyone have first hand knowledge on whether or not you can get the liner out (and back in '<img'> ) without cutting the refrigeration lines?  I'm hoping it's possible to pry the coils off the liner and lift the liner straight up and out.

Has anyone here done it?
Logged

Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
loman4ec
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4770



« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2006, 01:29:37 AM »

I have never done it myself but it is my understanding that getting it out isn't hard, its getting it back in that is tricky.
Logged
Jim
Administrator
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5579


#1 Soda Jerk!


WWW
« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2006, 10:07:46 AM »

If my memory serves me on this, you'll have to carefully bend the refrigeration lines while removing the condensor deck so you can drop the liner out. I think some have just cut the lines to make it easier to remove/replace the liner and then solder the lines back together and recharge the system.
As Josh has stated, once everything is painted, carefully putting the liner back in can be frustrating; especially since it's very close in size to the opening it has to fit through!
Logged

My six cents,

Jim

audiobeer
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 589



« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2006, 12:49:14 PM »

I don't know how you could possibly remove the liner in mine without cutting the lines. Mine was black tarred in there. If I had it all to do over again I would not have removed it. If your doing a complete detail restore and you have dents in the embossing you really have no choice. Recreating the lines is actually pretty easy....just a lot of soldering!
Logged

Missouri
MoonDawg
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6154



« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2006, 04:38:20 PM »

Quote (BryanH @ Jan. 15 2006,9:02)
 I'd really like to get the liner out so I can clean and paint the liner and hopefully (without taking the refrigeration out) clean and paint the compressor and copmressor area.

You won't be able to much better a job with the liner out of the machine as in place.  The compressor deck unbolts and is able to swing away from the machine while refrigeration system remains intact.
Logged

Glen
BryanH
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1356


Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


WWW
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2006, 05:58:42 PM »

Quote (MoonDawg @ Jan. 16 2006,2:38)
The compressor deck unbolts and is able to swing away from the machine while refrigeration system remains intact.

Glen, the line goes into the refrigeration area on the far left side.  If I swing the deck out 90 degrees won't it crimp or break the line?
Logged

Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
audiobeer
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 589



« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2006, 07:23:44 PM »

My hat's off to you for trying. I did and it was the only way to refinish the cabinet and the bulkhead around the compressor unit. In the end putting it back together was just something I couldn't do without going nuts! Subbed that part out!
Logged

Missouri
aspbear
25 Cent Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 396



« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2006, 08:42:49 PM »

I restored an ideal 55 and took the liner out.  You just have to be careful when you are taking it out not to crimp one of the refrigeration lines.  Mine was not tarred in  and it was just a matter of working it out a little at a time.  When I went to re install I used cardboard to hold the coils and insulation back while I put the liner back in place.   It was difficult but not undoable.  Also you can swing the refrigeration unit out from underneath the cabinet, you can not go 90 degrees but you can get it out far enough to re paint.
Logged

aspbear
MoonDawg
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6154



« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2006, 09:29:03 PM »

Quote (BryanH @ Jan. 16 2006,2:58)
Glen, the line goes into the refrigeration area on the far left side.  If I swing the deck out 90 degrees won't it crimp or break the line?

Nope!   ':<img:'>
Logged

Glen
BryanH
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1356


Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


WWW
« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2006, 09:36:08 PM »

Ok - That solves it. I've always been a supported of the "Go big or go home" motto so, the liner comes out over the weekend.  Thanks to everyone who posted replies.  I'll take pics and let you know in a few weeks whether it was a good idea or not.
Logged

Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
BryanH
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1356


Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


WWW
« Reply #10 on: January 29, 2006, 12:37:35 PM »

Well the liner is out. I think it was the right thing to do. The insulation was stained from condensation and the bottom of the frame had some pretty heavy surface rust.  

Getting the lower compartment cleaned and painted is still going to be a pain as I want to do it without cutting the refrigeration system.  Thought it was worth testing so after removing the insulation I tested the refrigeration.  Turned it on and let it run for about 45 mins.  In that time I got frost on the first 4 of 6 bends on the right side of the machine.  Was wondering if that seemed about right or if the refrigeration system might need some work?  Personally, with the coils being exposed, I expected that all coils on both sides would have frosted up in that time.  When I ran the machine during Christmas I did get frost on both sides of the liner.
Logged

Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
MoonDawg
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6154



« Reply #11 on: January 29, 2006, 01:43:05 PM »

I mentioned in another post that the floor comes out, but if you find you need freon, you may as well just remove your compressor instead. On a 55 slider there are fittings you can use to disconnect the lines, no need to cut.  You will only lose the little gas you have left in the system, but note that freon is supposed to be recovered, releasing it will put a hole in our ozone. (Shh.....we won't tell)
       If you are low on freon......why?  A leak in the line? If so it's better to find it before re-assembly. I had a leak once where the small capillary tube was welded to the larger tube on the inside tubing.
Logged

Glen
rogerz
Guest
« Reply #12 on: January 29, 2006, 01:50:33 PM »

Glen
The hole in the ozone is only over Southern California! '<img'>

rz
Logged
aspbear
25 Cent Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 396



« Reply #13 on: January 29, 2006, 07:08:59 PM »

Roger, just be carefull when you put the liner back in,  I was trying to do a little re alignment with a drill bit when I was putting my liner back in and hit one of the refrigeration lines dead center.  I got to take the liner back out and created a hole in the ozone right above Arkansas.
Logged

aspbear
audiobeer
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 589



« Reply #14 on: January 29, 2006, 08:31:09 PM »

Ah the horror. Hat's off to you for following through with it. Mine cooled in the same way. The 1st 15 minutes the first section would frost then all except the end was frosted after an hour. That was the last time it ran for 4 years now. It should be up and running in a few weeks. Randy Mitchell is completing the cooling. Good luck on it. Ideal 55s aren't the dream machines but they do look cool and are nice and quiet! (I hope)
Logged

Missouri
BryanH
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1356


Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


WWW
« Reply #15 on: January 29, 2006, 08:50:36 PM »

Quote (MoonDawg @ Jan. 29 2006,11:43)
I mentioned in another post that the floor comes out, but if you find you need freon, you may as well just remove your compressor instead. On a 55 slider there are fittings you can use to disconnect the lines, no need to cut.  You will only lose the little gas you have left in the system

Quote (audiobeer @ Jan. 29 2006,6:31)
Ah the horror. Hat's off to you for following through with it. Mine cooled in the same way. The 1st 15 minutes the first section would frost then all except the end was frosted after an hour. That was the last time it ran for 4 years now. It should be up and running in a few weeks. Randy Mitchell is completing the cooling. Good luck on it. Ideal 55s aren't the dream machines but they do look cool and are nice and quiet! (I hope)

Yeah - may not be the wisest idea but you never know until you try.  '<img'>

So what do you guys think... do you think the cooling system is ok (so I'll try to clean the compressor area and floor in place) or do you think it needs recharging (which means it all comes out)?

Sounds like AB's took awhile to get going so maybe I should let it run longer to make sure it's still intact?
Logged

Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
MoonDawg
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6154



« Reply #16 on: January 29, 2006, 09:14:45 PM »

Quote (BryanH @ Jan. 29 2006,5:50)
So what do you guys think... do you think the cooling system is ok (so I'll try to clean the compressor area and floor in place)

I think your system is OK. Pull the coils, rusted floor and compressor UP through the top and out.
     The floor is easy to re-make, but you will have to add a slit to it to slide the copper lines through
Logged

Glen
MoonDawg
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6154



« Reply #17 on: January 29, 2006, 09:26:04 PM »

Quote (aspbear @ Jan. 29 2006,4:08)
and created a hole in the ozone right above Arkansas.

'<img'>  '<img'>  '<img'>  '<img'>  '<img'>  LMAO  '<img'>  '<img'>  '<img'>  '<img'>  '<img'>
Logged

Glen
BryanH
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1356


Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


WWW
« Reply #18 on: February 01, 2006, 08:57:37 PM »

Got the floor out.  The compressor is under a brace for the floor that is dead center in the machine.  Don't think I can get it out without removing the brace. Tried a torch to see if I could loosen the joint, but it didn't work.  Doesn't look like it's welded but it's on securely.  Any recommendations before I cut it out?



Logged

Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
BryanH
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1356


Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


WWW
« Reply #19 on: February 03, 2006, 05:40:48 PM »

Sounds like cutting the brace is the way to get it out.... right?
Logged

Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
audiobeer
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 589



« Reply #20 on: February 09, 2006, 11:47:52 PM »

Go for it. Looks like it's tack welded. Can you drill out the spot welds?
Logged

Missouri
BryanH
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1356


Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


WWW
« Reply #21 on: February 10, 2006, 10:19:34 AM »

I couldn't see the tack welds and honestly never thought about drilling them out (I'll file that idea for another time).  I cut it off flush with the flange.  Used my dremmel... which btw is a tool everyone should have...  Got it for Christmas and have used it almost every weekend since.
Logged

Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
audiobeer
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 589



« Reply #22 on: February 10, 2006, 11:11:39 PM »

You got the hard part done! It would be great if you have saved a step by step process with pics. Is this not a great site!
Logged

Missouri
BryanH
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1356


Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


WWW
« Reply #23 on: February 10, 2006, 11:28:43 PM »

AB - I always take tons of pics... the good, the bad and once and awhile the ugly.
Logged

Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
audiobeer
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 589



« Reply #24 on: February 22, 2006, 09:25:59 PM »

Where we at? My chrome is on it's way back for mine! Should be done soon. I'll sacn my pics to show the before and after. As soon as the 44 get's here I'm going to gut it and start on the box and drop of the cooling to Randy (That's who's doing the cooling on the Ideal 55 I wimped out on)
Logged

Missouri
BryanH
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1356


Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


WWW
« Reply #25 on: February 23, 2006, 10:18:06 AM »

AB, I have the body, liner, racks and cooling cleaned and mostly sanded.  Will give it all one more quick sandblast (very cool toy - I mean tool) and wet-sand before priming and painting.  Hoping to get it primed this weekend... but that has been the hope/plan for the last 2 weekends. I used my Dremel (another cool toy) to buff the bad spots on the top chrome trim and it woorked pretty good.  Took almost all the scratches out.  I'll give it another complete go over once the body has been painted..  I'm leaving the lid for now.  Not ready to sink $250 into a new one.  All post pics in a couple of days.
Logged

Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
audiobeer
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 589



« Reply #26 on: February 23, 2006, 12:46:36 PM »

After you get the lid buffed out and mounted and may look great with that added character!  '<img'>
Logged

Missouri
BryanH
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1356


Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


WWW
« Reply #27 on: February 23, 2006, 01:55:26 PM »

I'm crossing my fingers... If not

Btw - I got a line on a guy that would hand paint the embossed sign for $80.  Is that reasonable?
Logged

Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
audiobeer
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 589



« Reply #28 on: February 24, 2006, 12:06:21 AM »

Oh yea! If he's good that's a bargain. There's 3 colors there!
Logged

Missouri
BryanH
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1356


Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


WWW
« Reply #29 on: February 24, 2006, 10:25:15 AM »

I was thinking that he'd only have to do two (at most)? The white background will be painted and prepped.  I'd like him to do the lettering in red and possibly some blue outlining of the oval in blue & red. Do you have a good reference pic I could give him?  I've been watching ebay but the best one I have is still my machine.
Logged

Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
audiobeer
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 589



« Reply #30 on: February 24, 2006, 12:52:45 PM »

It's at the shop getting the cooling and lettering as we speak! It will be a while. I'll see if I can find a pic.
Logged

Missouri
audiobeer
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 589



« Reply #31 on: February 25, 2006, 01:39:01 AM »

Here's a pic! Picking up next weekend In Springfield, Mo. Randy did the cooling, and finished everything else. All I had a hand in was the paint & metal work.
Logged

Missouri
audiobeer
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 589



« Reply #32 on: February 25, 2006, 03:10:05 PM »

I called a buddy of mine to see if he wanted to drive down there with me to Branson, Mo. to pickup cooler. It turns out he's fishing there right now. Called him on the cell phone and he's picking the machine up for me and driving it back in the morning. Will be able to get you any pics you need now.



Logged

Missouri
MoonDawg
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6154



« Reply #33 on: February 25, 2006, 04:24:25 PM »

Now THAT's luck ':p'
Logged

Glen
BryanH
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1356


Sweatin' in Arizona... but it's a dry heat!


WWW
« Reply #34 on: February 25, 2006, 05:21:20 PM »

Thanks AB - looks like a great finish...  When you get it home, safe and sound, can you email me a nice hi-res close-up of the embossed sign and another of the refrigeration compartment.
Logged

Thanks, Bryan
   Cavalier USS-96: unrestored, working on the back patio
   CV VUB/C 8-91: a fantasy restoration?
   GE Cooler: in pieces, my next project
audiobeer
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 589



« Reply #35 on: February 26, 2006, 12:48:24 AM »

Absolutely! This was the same cooler that brought me to the site several years ago. All I have to do now is the R-1 (Needs the lock), My Junior (Got to put the liner back in and letter), and Josh is shipping my Vendo 44 when he has time. I have had a lot of machines but I like the small ones. Next project is finding a workable 27a. Sorry to get off topic!
Logged

Missouri
Eric
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4771



« Reply #36 on: February 27, 2006, 02:29:09 PM »

Randy's good!
I think I was there when this was sitting inside his shop he finished up a Heintz had
two other sliders and pumps all going at the same time!
He's busy!You going to have him do your 44?....
Logged

Eric

WANTED:
Embossed Quikold Standard
audiobeer
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 589



« Reply #37 on: February 27, 2006, 02:41:47 PM »

I'm doing the paint and replacing the wiring if that's all it needs. If it needs anything more than that I'll take it to Randy for him to dissasemble and I'll do the metal work and paint. I'm dropping off a Junior for him to letter and the R-1 for him to get the lock going. I'm getting all the old monkeys off my back!   ':p'
Logged

Missouri
Eric
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4771



« Reply #38 on: February 27, 2006, 03:50:35 PM »

There's a place here in Washington, MO that powder coats
I've had a tub for my 39 and the back of the drum done...
going to have the frames and base of my Bennett pumps
powder coated black....
Logged

Eric

WANTED:
Embossed Quikold Standard
sodaworks
Soda Jerks
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3526



« Reply #39 on: February 27, 2006, 08:23:36 PM »

looks great!! nice 55
Logged

TERRY@SODAWORKS RESTORATIONS
Lots of Round Top machines
Buy-Sell-Trade-Restorations
Pages: 1 2 3 4 [All]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.15 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!